As of now my car will fall flat on its face any time I drive it and it and I attempt to drive fast. Basically what happens is that any time boost builds up the car will just hesitate and go nowhere. I decided to pull off the IC and check the TB area to see if something was wrong with any vac lines around there since I had been in there the previous day adjusting my TPS. Well I found a loost vac line that wasnt connected. I found out where it us supposed to go and the nipple that it is on broke off.

Click this link for a better description of where the line leads

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=13

Ther are two vac lines leading into that "gizmo" and one of the nipples broke off, therefore it seems that my secondary plates arent opening up, is that my case?

 

Well, time to do this....


http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html

James

 

So is what I am describing definately the secondary plates?

I want to do the TB mod at some point but I am supposed to drive 7 hours to school today or tomorrow. Is it possible to plug the broken nipple and get them to open even partially?

 

I'm not sure how the TII throttle body is set up, but I'd assume it's similar to the NA. There should be a way to ziptie the secondary throttle plates open - I did this on my NA when I was troubleshooting some highway performance issues as well. They're supposed to just open wide on the NA when it's warmed up, but mine were doing funky things, so I just ziptied them open.

You should be able to rig something similar on yours.

-=Russ=-

 

The lack of a vacuum to the double throttle diaphram will NOT make them stay closed and should not effect a thing except when the engine is stone cold.

On a non turbo if there is no vacuum to the double throttle diaphram, the outer secondary plates are spring loaded to wide open.

Not so with the turbo.

There is a black cam and damper that it rides against. When these parts get old, the outer secondary plates will not open fully every time.

There is a quick way of preventing this and it does not take long or require removal of anything but the intercooler.

From memory: remove the intercooler. LOOK at the front of the throttle body. See the flat black cam and damper?????? Do you also see a rod centered in a spring? The rod is 2.7 inches long. It has an approx 6mm wrench size nut on it. Remove the nut, spring, cotter key and rod. There is a cotter key on the other end of the rod from the nut.

Now zip tie or safety wire the OUTER secondary PLATE linkage to full open.

This process should take approx thirty minutes out of your life...max. Now you know the outer secondary plates are full open always. Much like a non turbo car with broken double throttle diaphram.

 

So what is causing this hesitation? Everything sounds like the throttle plates but you say otherwise. What is the plastic thing on the back of the TB with the two vac lines coming out of it?

 

Its a one way check valve.

James

 

How does that help me identify my problem?

 

It dosen't.

But you did ask this question didn't you ?



So , I answered it for you.

James

 

Alright, if this one-way check valve doesnt have the proper vacuum supplied to it, what will it cause to go wrong?

 

If it is that green/white plastic thing...i installed it backwards once...and the idle stayed high...around 2000 - 3000 rpm.

Suck on it.....

I think it is a valve to stop boost from going thru it.

James

 

I dont have an idle problem tho, grr Im getting nowhere with this.

 

do I want to zip tie back the linkage closest to the white cap or closest to the UIM?

 

8888888888So what is causing this hesitation? Everything sounds like the throttle plates but you say otherwise. What is the plastic thing on the back of the TB with the two vac lines coming out of it?88888888888888888888888888888888888888888

One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten.

Everything I wrote indicated that I think the outer secondary throttle plates are sticking on the black cam and the damper it rides on. So I suggested you disable the outer secondary throttle plates by removing the 2.7 inch long rod that is enclosed in a small spring, then safety wire the secondary outer plates in a full open position. A thirty minute or so job.

The green/white plastic thing is a check valve b/t the vacuum outlet pipe and the water thermo valve. The water thermo valve is the plastic item with the two nipples on it. The water thermo valve supplies vacuum to the double throttle diaphram to hold the outer secondary throttle plates closed when the engine is cold. If the vacuum line to either nipple is broken, then the water thermo valve won't work and the outer secondary throttle plates will NOT stay closed when the engine is cold and the throttle is opened. So you can see that if one of the vacuum lines on the water thermo valve is busted ....it cannot cause your problem.

If the outer secondary throttle plates stay closed when you apply throtte, and the engine is warm/hot, then the car won't reach full boost a will feel like a dog. Sometimes they will open fully and other times they might hang up on the black cam and not open. So you might get full boost at times and other times not.

 

If you don't have a factory service manual, there is a free download of it online and for free.

 

ok so ive run into more problems, i got the rod and everything apart, zip tied the plates open and the car wouldnt start

so i took everything back apart to put the linkage back and as I was doing it, the white piece on the secondary plate linkage fell along with the nut and I cant get to them

 

You just zip tie/saftey wire the OUTER set of secondary plates open. Not the inner set of secondary throttle plates. Just in case.

With just the outer set of plates wired to full open, the car should start just as it did prior to saftey wiring them open.