uselessid

Fresh NA rebuild
New larger radiator
Good standalone
Water injection
Octane booster every tankful

I have an 89 GXL and I want to turbo it but I don't want lag and im only looking for around 300 rwhp, nothing more.

YearsOfDecay

Don't bother with the octane booster, just run 94 it it all the time and tune it to around 12.0- 11.75 under boost.

You don't need the water injection either. IMO it works, but its for guys running 20LBS of boost.

If you are going to run a standalone... I'd rebuild a TII motor rather than the N/A, you'll have a LOT less problems with the turbo setup.

However, the satandalone (like a haltech) itself will help you're cause out greatly, you won't have to worry about tweaking the stock ECU with fcd's and SAFC's and all that nonsense. Just make sure you either buy a good wideband O2 meter or know someone that does.

You will want to do a FMIC as well, don't even bother trying to use the TII top mount, if you turbo the N/A rotors, you will need that cold air charge. Talk to ArronCake about how much boost to run if you use the N/A Rotors cause they have higher compression and won't handle boost levels that a TII motor will.

Since its an 89 you are either going to have to switch to an s4 OMP or delete the oil injection system altogether and run premix (which is the better choice IMO). Your s5 OMP is electric and controlled by the ECU... most standalones will not be able to operate it.

powrdby13B

**** NO
holy god you need free flowing exhaust, a massive streetport, a kick *** CAI in addition to all that... plus prolly a fuel pump, ignition box, and most likely some injectors... and if you like to live dangerously that MIGHT get you there...

EpitrochoidMan

Peripheral Port?

uselessid

yeah, im going to do that stuff but i listed those mods because they get the car running well and/or fight detonation.

YearsOfDecay

Exhaust, ,YEP, need that, but since you were going turbo, I assumed you'd be getting a new exhaust anyway since the N/A exhaust wouldn't fit to the turbo!!

CAI... not absolutely necessary if you do the proper FMIC, i run my filter run on the end of the turbo, my air temps are around 115 at full boost (15 PSI)


Fuel Pump, you need that..... Get a Walbro 255 of ebay

Ignition box..... Not nececssary, the stock coilpacks will do fine with a Haltech, if you HAVE to do it, i've heard good things about the FC1000 from rx7.com mated to the stock coils.

Injectors..... you are definately going to need those.... TII 550's and at least 720's for the secondaries. I'll be switching to Marren 1000's over the winter down from the 1600's to get rid of the dredded injector surge.

powrdby13B

msd ignition kinda fights detonation too... you better invest in some kick *** apex's too...
p-port is a good idea... i've always wanted to do that, but never found a good TB for it... and i'm too lazy to make anything to do that by itself... hard as it would be LoL...
i got a na thats close to 300 RWHP... and its got what i listed up there plus some other stuff... and its got safc not standalone too... but it received a couple extra injectors...

snub disphenoid

You do know that octane booster only boosts your octane 4-5 points, right?

powrdby13B

he was lookin for about 420 points LoL...

White_FC

You have an N/A with 300 rwhp?

or a turbocharged N/A engine with 300rwhp?

Imischeifin

his turbo has 6 ports

BlaCkPlaGUE

yeah wouldn't the extra ports be a huge benefit over the standard tII?


I was saying before if it was possible to add TII rotors in an N/A housing (6 ports), never got an answer becuase it was in a thread with a different question. anyone know?

It wouldnt be expensive if you did it yourself, changing the rotors that is, and getting them from a junk TII, not new.

FB II

usually turbocharged n/a's spool quicker.