2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

ported motor, only atf will start it and runs patheticaly

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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 08:43 PM
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Unhappy ported motor, only atf will start it and runs patheticaly

I got the ported motor in and heres the thing, it takes atf to start it, idles fine, but anything after it runs like ****. any suggestiosn or do you need more info?
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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 09:06 PM
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Way more info needed. First who did the street port? Who did the rebuild?

We can proceed from there.
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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 09:19 PM
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the street port and the rebuild were done by the guy i purchased the motor from. its a large street port. for some reason i can never get the timing DEAD TDC its always either too retarded or too advanced by 1 or 2 degrees. no matter how i stab the CAS i have to either go full retard or full advance on the cas adjustment.
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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 09:22 PM
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Originally posted by billzrx7
the street port and the rebuild were done by the guy i purchased the motor from. its a large street port. for some reason i can never get the timing DEAD TDC its always either too retarded or too advanced by 1 or 2 degrees. no matter how i stab the CAS i have to either go full retard or full advance on the cas adjustment.
maybe, for starters, you could set that up?
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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 09:24 PM
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ive tried COUNTLESS times. any pointers? even the FSM doesnt give me a good way to do it and the SEARCH option here is too vague as well.
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Old Aug 31, 2002 | 11:50 PM
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first thing is setting the timing correcly. even if it is a "large" street port stock timing will start and run the motor very well. if the port on the housing is to high it will set the timing way off. a guy in our club did his own incorrect porting and could only get his started by pushing it. he later got another motor, we opened his and it confirmed our suspicions.

Last edited by HN; Aug 31, 2002 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2002 | 12:39 AM
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are you using the inital set jumper? I don't have trouble with the FSM.
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Old Sep 2, 2002 | 03:42 PM
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any other suggestios cuz nothins workin
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Old Sep 2, 2002 | 07:44 PM
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just out of curiousity how much boost cant a 9.4:1 rotor handle?
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Old Sep 2, 2002 | 11:41 PM
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im estimating 18-22. its got hurley 3mm seals so its a tad better off to begin with. i could be wrong but no idea.
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Old Sep 3, 2002 | 01:21 AM
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Originally posted by billzrx7
im estimating 18-22. its got hurley 3mm seals so its a tad better off to begin with. i could be wrong but no idea.
its no better off, infact being of 2 piece design you'd have less compression than you would with factory mazda 2 mm 3 piece apex seals
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Old Sep 3, 2002 | 01:47 AM
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two quick questions. One have you had a compression check done on the engine? And two, how large is the porting i know if you get it to big, it wont idle for ****. Anyways, I havent messed with any street porting on my engine, I know it is the way to make hella power, but i couldn't get myself around to cracking open a 17lbs of vaccum pulling j-spec motor i got. I know I would just end up messing something up, or someone would mess up my engine. Bad things with my car seem to always happen.
Chris
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 02:59 AM
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^^^ UPDATE ^^^

I finally got the car timed correctly but it still doesnt seem to run properly and I still have to start it with atf. this is after the car has probably ran a total of 30 minutes since the motor went in. it also seems to be running a little warmer than usual but no co2 leakeage into the coolant. any other help? to anyone that can help me with this ill send loads of free parts to.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 08:53 AM
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I got my streetport done, put it in, and had a shitload of problems at first too. This is what I found:

-Make sure your engine ground is good.
-Replace your fuel filter.
-AFM. This was the cause of all my problems. After months of testing and fiddling around, I took it to Mazda, and $738 in labour later, it was running like a dream. The problem was the AFM. There seemed to be some sort of short in the harnas leading to the AFM, which was then sending mangled signals to the ECU. The car was either way rich that it would flood it's self and not start, or so lean that the headers would glow at idle.
First thing to do: because you have an S4, make sure your AFM is lying flat, in the stock location. If it's on it's side or tilted, it wont work properly. Then check it with the test in the FSM. If it is bad, it might be your problem. Good luck!
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 04:03 PM
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the afm is in the same place its been for over a year and i know it works there. ill check resistance but any other ideas?
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 07:37 PM
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^^ Bump ^^
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 12:35 AM
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I know you probably dont want to hear this, but stand alone management will take care of that stuff usually. I have a ported motor in my t2 and i set the idle at 1100rpm and its just fine (my alternator kicks in at 1000rpm, so i bumped it to 1100 so i always have 14.7 volts no matter what). You can do SO MUCH MORE with stand alone than fighting with the stock computer. Just an idea....

Graham
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 02:54 PM
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Originally posted by Nick86
First thing to do: because you have an S4, make sure your AFM is lying flat, in the stock location. If it's on it's side or tilted, it wont work properly.
afm on my car is on it's side

still works fine
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 04:27 PM
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How did you fix the timing? I have the same timing problem on mine but mine runs ok at about 2-3 advanced.
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 05:52 PM
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yip with a standalone you dont need to worry about silly little intake leaks etc, it'll run no matter what
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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i fixed the timing by busting out the dremel
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