so whats the general consenus on clutch kits for the turbo2
mine just poopooped the bed and trying to find the best set up.
i did find this if anyone has a opinion on it
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F1 Racing STAGE 2 clutch kit is a step up from our Stage 1 clutch kit. This is a versatile set up for the street and on the track. It provides a smooth engagement yet it can holds 50%+ more power over stock clutches. This is a direct factory replacement clutch kit thus no modifications are needed and the clutch kit includes only the highest grade components from world's leading high performance clutch manufacturer. The Carbonized kevlar friction material is used on all Stage 2 clutch kit to have higher burst strength and heat tolerance. The heavy-duty sprung center with heat treated springs and retainer rivets to increase strengh and reliability. The F1 Racing pressure plate features special single diaphragm design to increase clamp load. It features induction hardened diaphragm, CNC machined castings, stronger drive straps and rivets. F1 Racing pressure plate provides smooth and precise feel with easy modulation. All F1 Racing pressure plate is load tested on a special testing tool for quality assurance.

This complete clutch kit includes:
F1 Racing Stage 2 Heavy-Duty Pressure Plate
F1 Racing Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar Disc (240 mm, 23 spline)
Release Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Alignment Tool

 

what did you have before? and how much HP are you pushing?

I haven't had a T2 yet but when i 5spd swapped i used a Ebay seco clutch which was crap so i bought a OEM Mazda heavy duty clutch and i couldn't be happier.

 

i used a dual-friction centerforce, it's barely holding up to 300wtq though....

it was great for a near-stock application....

 

i estimate 250-280. i based that on the mods on fc3spro.com

ya this is an ebay too, but im kinda in the dry end of my wallet lol

 

Ebay cltuched are normally total junk.

 

You get what you pay for, I've always used ACT 6 puck clutches in both my TII and my GXL.

 

That's becuase centerforce sucks. End of story

Go to ACT and find the easiest clutch to drive that will hold the torque you are putting down unless you have definate mods planned for the future

Then you should sell your car before you start mickeymousing crap together to get it to run. Poor people should not own toy cars

Why would you use a 6-puck on an N/A. I bet it was unsprung too right?

 

hey man i got a 6 puck clutch of of ebay for i think it was around 200 with shipping and its been great. the pedal feels super soft and very smoth engagement.

 

me too^^^^^^ for 148 dollars. The ebay piece of **** lasted just under 6 thousand miles. I now have a 380 dollar 6 puck sprung set up on the way.

Do not buy the ebay. Itll just end up costing you 528.00 for a 380 dollar act clutch 6 thousand miles later.

**** xtd

john ny

 

Yes I'm not a fan of the sprung hubs.

 

You're not a fan of sprung hubs on a street car?

 

I know I'm strange. I've always liked the feel of the unsprung hubs for some reason. Anyways it just died on my friend, only took 8yrs and 50k miles.

 

To each thier own but I have 146k miles on an OEM sprung disc on my Cherokee that puts down about 240ish ft/lbs of torque iirc. Pucks eat PP's and flywheels and are generally a PITA to drive. Unless you have some ungodly amount of torque or can't afford a twin disc or are using it for racing purposes, I've never seen the need for a puck disc

 

Had an AASCO 8lb flywheel on it as well. It was a blast to drive. Did a little road racing and autocross years ago.

 

Im in the market for a new cluth, mine is starting to slip more and more. So after reading https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/help-needed-new-clutch-19300/
i have decided on a act but that link is like 7 yrs old. So what do i need to get to fix my DD cluth problem. Its stock w/ a K&n drop in filter and soon to have new RB exhaust ( will be asking forrecomendations on that later)
86 fc

 

I can tell you this...dont buy an ACT stage III and heavy duty pressure plate unless you hate yourself.

 

[QUOTE=TitaniumTT


Then you should sell your car before you start mickeymousing crap together to get it to run. Poor people should not own toy cars



QUOTE]

ahhhh i see, silver spoon syndrome, Everyone, TitaniumTT made announcement, that i think everyone should adhere to.
If u didnt grow up with Bmw, Lexus, Rolex,
Abercrombie and Fitch, or Holister, u must get rid of ur fc
i beat up kids like that in highschool

 

I didn't grow up driving any of those, nor were any of them in my family. My father bought a Porsche during his midlife crisis but that's about it. I stand by my previous ascertation that if you cannot afford to do it right, you shouldn't do it at all and therefore, just sell the car

I beat up everyone in HS

 

I agree with Titanium. You get what you pay for. Save money, take your time and do it right the first time.

 

its guys that do things cheap that ruin cars like these. just wait a little if your at the "dry end of your wallet" that or sell me your car

 

ACT!!!! just dont get a spec...

 

I have to agree with titanium too
if you can't afford it, either leave it the way it is and wait till you can

or work harder and get a better job

 

well just got my act extreme press plate in the mail today, dope.i honestly dont believe that being thrifty is a bad thing, i think whats worse is a person driving on broke *** parts. ive seen 7's with some nice parts, but still was a giant pos

idk to each there own i guess

 

After my rebuild i put in a centerforce dual friction. From the first time I drove the car I knew I made the wrong choice. I have always been a centerforce guy for years but they don't work on TII's. So 1000 miles later and I am gonna get a ACT.

 

Thanks guys

You do know that the Extreme plates have been known to BEND FORKS right? Why go with an extreme out of curiosity? Do you have enough torque to warrant all the inherient problems?

I agree, there's nothing wrong with being thrifty and looking for good deals and such. I looked for a long time before I found by Exedy twin disc - used. Yes used. I got such a good price on it that even if BOTH plates needed to be replaced and all the surfaces machined - it still would've been cheaper than buying a new one @ $1600.

However, there is BIG difference between thrifty and cheap. Especially cheap like some FC owners are. IE - I don't want to spend $100 for a used short throw shifter so I took a hack saw to mine!!!! Works just as well Yeah, no ******* way dumbass.