fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

so the other day after some dicking around and leisurely cruising my friend was behind me and called me to ask if I drove through some fog, which would be reasonable enough due to all the damn hills and the recent humidity but it after a confusing reply of "no?" my car stalls. I tried to gear start it by popping the clutch and it ran for about 2-3 seconds then stalled.

so we pull over to the side of the road and I did the only thing I knew how to do in a situation where it wouldn't start and just cranked, pulled the EGI fuse and cranked it for a bit then it wanted to start up again but didn't, did it one more time and it started up and idled fine, ran decent under light load - noticed it hesitating a little bit at the typical spot under moderate load. I magically flooded it while driving which leads me to believe that I have a sticking primary or a blown apex seal because that fog I drove through was definitely a blue hue.

it flooded out coming to a stop midway home and I had to de flood the engine again and being under the hood my eyes were burning the rest of the night from the gasoline fumes.

I can't see any leaks, pulled the top plugs out and checked them today with the little break I had from the rain and they looked fine. did a compression test and got about 75-80psi but in the wrong spark plug hole. now I gotta wait for this rain to clear up and check it again properly...

I have a piston compression tester so I know it says to remove the schrader valve but I just held it down and they seemed 2/3 phases had equal bounces, 1 of the 3 on both rotors seemed to be a bit low. but I'm gonna have to check it properly but prognosis is not good

ok well my one manual says remove the top spark plugs and check it and now I read another that says remove the lower plugs and check comp.

my oil and coolant are fine

with the EGI fuse removed when I cranked it today having the top plugs out and comp testing (schrader valve in when I got the 70-75psi) it smelled like gas.

it might not be an apex seal but a side seal or a leaking injector, tomorrow if its not pouring I will check the comp without the schrader valve in the compression tester in the lower spark plug holes

okay well today I did a compression test by taking out the shrader valve in comp gauge and in every spark plug hole did a comp test and saw 3 even bounces around 70-75psi.

so naturally I took the UIM off to check out the injectors and one of my primaries has a crack down the plastic pintle cap on near the nozzle of the injector. I'm now wondering if my POS injectors have a bad spray pattern or leaking or some other type of fault. but they all came to 2.7ohms when I checked the resistance...

confusing ****.

anyone got good ways to test injectors outside of the car?

the car started right up and ran and idled fine, even with some minor revving it was fine.

cliff notes:

broken primary pintle cap, puff of blue smoke = engine floods and dies, de floods and starts back up, shrader valve in = 75psi on both rotors, 3 even bounces around 70psi during comp test w/o shrader valve in.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I doubt a broken pintle cap is a good thing. I don't know a lot about injectors but I'd probably replace it.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

The 75 compression means your gonna need a rebuild soon.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

That too...

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

well its not like it broke off in the engine, its got a crack down the side of the cap, I gotta wait till the weekend is over to get my injectors sent over to witchdoctor.

but I do feel that the rebuild is coming soon

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, I was saying I would replace the injector. Witchdoctor should know what to do though.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Their 18 dollar per injector servicing includes new pintle caps

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

the max pressure the engine would build up is 70-75 psi on the piston
engine compression tester. I followed the hanes manual for the comp test and it said to unplug the essentials and test in the top plugs.

so by doing that I got my 70-75psi readings, there seems to be a couple ways to compression test it.

I just want to know for certain before I pull the motor out and begin to tear it down.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

The thing is that even if it's not blown, 75psi is low. If you tear it down before it blows you can end up with more reusable parts, which is helpful because you can sell them even if you don't reuse those particular parts.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Agreed. Take this advice from me. I had 75-80 compression on my rear rotor and decided I could continue to drive on it thinking it would last me until I could afford a T2 swap or rebuild. Ended up popping a seal about a month after I did the comp test...