If you still can't find a leak, try this:

I had a leak in my heater core right at the connection to the hose on the drivers side of the engine bay. The coolant leaked out (slowly) and dripped down the inside of the firewall. I ended up with a small amount of coolant under the carpet in the driver's footwell area. I only noticed it because I am missing the trim piece under the hatch/gas release latches, and I went to pull them one day and noticed a tiny tiny puddle of coolant there. After I pulled the carpet up, I found more coolant and was able to identify the source.

 

Has anyone bothered to ask this guy if he opened the bleeder screw on his S4 when he filled the coolant? Because if you fill the coolant without doing that you WILL have intermitant buzzer.

Back when I had my S4 i dont remember a single mechanic that bleed the system with the screw near the upper radiator neck like you are suposed to and I would get the buzzer and have to go back and do it myself.

 

well ill look in my manual for the bleeder screw because i dont know exactly what it looks like...ive only owned my car for like 2 weeks.its not like i even filled it up or anything...i just poured like a cap full in the filler and it didnt go down because the therm wasnt open. when my buddy gets back with a jug of coolant/antifreeze...but i will do what you described

 

Just a side-note, to the original poster, unless you have a JDM FC you don't own a "Base" model, you own an "SE" model FC.

I believe Icemark corrected me on that awhile back when I said my car was a Base model. SE is the "base" model for USDM.

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

that wasnt really relevant but thanks for that tidbit of information...ill remember that

 

ok well i started the car with the cap off...no bubbles. i did open the bleeder screw and added some coolant until just poured out of the bleeder...so i let it warm up and as the coolant got too high in the filler to where it was leaking out and i would open the bleeder for a second until it went down. and the buzzer stopped...the gauge stayed about 1/4 the way up the fluid in my rad is a murky brown color so i guess im gonna be draining the rad this weekend....and the res...as soon as my hands are warm im gonna take her for a spin and see if it comes back or not....

 

ok well i went to go for a drive and guess what...its ******* back...its too damn cold to **** with it too much...but i unscrewed the bleed screw and let some coolant run out. went to put more in started to pour it in the funnel and as soon as it went into the filler it just started to spray everywhere...i cant tell if its spraying around the funnel or from the bottom of the filler/therm...does this mean i need a new thermostat or what? i plan on going back out in the morning to find out where its coming from.

 

o and another thing...who votes i should just bounce it off the rev limiter till it blows up. and video tape it and post it?

 

Don't blow it up!

Even with blown coolant seals (which I am not fully convinced that you have) the engine is more salvageable now than after death by overheating.

When you took off the cap, did you notice whether or not there was pressure there? If there was, let the car warm up and listen for leaks. Also check if your crankcase has gained any oil (water is heavier than oil and will be invisible on the stick at first.)

I blew the little hose that comes from the block up to the throttle body, it was extremely hard to find the leak.

Above all, watch your temperature gauge like a hawk watches a mouse when you are driving your car. If the guage moves, shut the engine off.

 

Dumbass.

-Ted

 

ok the thing with me blowing up the car was a joke.. but anyways...while the car was running i would pull the bleeder screw out and coolant would run out. then as i would put the screw back in the filler would fill back up till it was over flowing....im not going to drive the car with the buzzer going off..its too annoying. i plan on figuring it out first...but the temp gauge stays at about 1/4 way up.
ill change the oil and look and see if it has water... but i cant find a leak anywhere....

 

Just wondering... If 99.99% of FC's in the US are US models and the SE is considered the base model for the US... then "Base Model" should be sufficient enough to describe it... otherwise if you were in fact speaking about a JDM base model FC I would think you would say "JDM Base Model" no???

kinda like being in a sushi restaurant and asking 'is this USDM or JDM sushi'

 

lol you make a good point

 

I never said that information was relevant or even useful. I just like random knowledge... and imparting it!

Cheers,
iSP33D-for-J3SUS