Alright Rotor Heads, This going to be my 1st Rotary Build. Before That Little History On the engine. pulled this from a junkyard. car had 235k miles on it. i am assuming this is the org engine. the warranty void sticked was still on the bolt. my goal is to have atleast 275whp in the future. yes this is a 6 port. turbo was my initial plan. i am going to start of with a large streetport. Any advice you guys can give will be a great help. like what kits to buy,what not to do anything. i dont have anyone to help me out cuz this going to be myself from beg to end. i have real healthy engine in the car now. i am not going to do anything on it because just incase something happens it still run there is lots of pic.

I Have Washed and Dried As much as i can, but still not enough

Front Rotors

 

Front Housing

There is not any scrathces that i can feel with my hands besides the sides on 3&4 th pic

 

Iron

There was some rust on the finished surface from sitting in the yard for 6 months. i am not really sure what the black discoloration

 

Rear Rotor

 

Excentric Shaft

I can feel a dip in the 4th pic.

 

Rear Housing

 

Rear Iron

 

Let Me Know What You Guys Think, wheather its worth building or not . i know these pic wont do much help. i still have to measure everything.

 

The irons you will have to clean up better and do your measuring. I would not use the housings. Where the chrome has flaked off the edges will only get worse. Some people say it could work, but why not source some newer (used) housings?

Rotors look ok, if that is only surface rust. You don't want too much pitting.

 

i agree have a shop clean them up for you see how much damage the rust is.. if it is only surface rust you will be ok

 

The housings I would not use, to much chrome flaking on the edges.

The irons you'll have to clean up better and see how deep the imperfections go, if the answer is nil you need to inspect the spots between the coolant seal grooves the the combustion chamber very thoroughly...thats where most coolant seal problems happen. If that good check them for flatness, if they then pass that test run them.

For the rotors you really need to measure the apex seal grooves, if they are vee'd out past tolerance you need either new rotors or to have those machined for bigger apex seals.

That eshaft I wouldn't use without having it polished for further inspection.

 

Get the mazda factory shop manual, micrometer, dial guage. telescoping guage set sized for bearings. Follow the directions in the FSM.

I would not use those housings, plates will prolly clean up.
Rotors need to be clearenced with new apex seals as well as corner seal inspection. With that many miles my guess is they are hosed for 2mm.
Chuck the e-shaft and find a different one(shiping will cost more than the shaft)
Judging by the E-shaft youll need some new bearings.

Other than that youve got all the stuff in the FSM to look over. Really you cant tell much from looking at pics on the internet other than huge oil retention coating missing from the housings or huge rust spots on stuff. ONLY way to really tell is to follow the specs in the FSM. It either passes or it does not.

You would be supprised with what will clean up with some work tho.

 

agreed.

 

Thanks People, @GregW, yes i do have the mazda manual - i have to get the dial gauge etc
i have to find a local shop to probably clean them up. so from what you guys are saying i need

1. Housing - is the FD and FC housing interchangable?one better than other?
2.excentric shaft - should i stay with the n/a?

when i send them to clean the parts do they clean the polished surface or just the outside?

 

FD and FC housings are interchangeable if you are doing it on purpose and know what your doing.

Im pretty sure an eshaft is an eshaft, at least for sure on S4 vs S4. Search will give you the answer.

I highly doubt you will find a local shop that will "clean those parts up" and have the slightest clue as to what needs to be done. Unless they are a rotary shop. I highly recomend doing it your self, information abbounds on cleaning methods.

Good luck, If you do it right it will instantly fire up and hold a nice idle. Few things are more satisfying.

 

0. there is a page in the back of the FSM, that just lists ALL of the clearances in the engine. so you can go down the list. it makes it pretty clear what needs to be replaced.

1. the USA S4 FC housings have a different spark plug location, so you cannot mix USA S4 housings with s5/FD/non US s4. get a pair of S4 or a pair of S5/FD. i'd actually recommend NEW housings, it makes a HUGE difference.

2. ALL the Fc Eshafts are the same.

3. the marks on the rubbing surface of the irons is corrosion from the side seals sitting on it + moisture. it should actually come right off with some sand paper. if you're a big dollar guy you can have em lapped/reground

4. before you order parts i'd measure the rotors, chances are the apex seal grooves are out of spec. the apex seal actually puts enough force, over time, to make the apex slot a V shape. this used to make them doorstops, but goopy sells oversized seals and a tool to fix the groove, so that might be an option.

5. obviously ALL the parts need to be CLEAN.

 

good info, i see everyone mentioning the FSM, is it same as archive/faq section?

 

i am reading all the threads in this forum and look like there is no end. an i am super confused what to use like rebuild kits ect. 1 piece/2 piece apex, springs OEM/Leading aftermarket parts etc. from what i seen pretty much most of them like OEM stuff

 

FSM= factory service manual.
you can get them online at; www.foxed.ca
be nice and donate if possible.

 

OEM stuff fits! and it WORKS! its hard to go wrong.

 

Atkins has some pretty good rebuild kits for a decent price.