Please help identify motor/tranny combo
#2
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Well, it's obviously a TII motor, and the front cover is definitely S5. The tranny bellhousing is not like my S4 (opening w/ 2 bolts above the starter), so I'd guess that's S5 too.
The thing is, you really have no way of knowing what rotors/porting it has unless you take it apart to check. Odds are it's a stock S5 though.
The thing is, you really have no way of knowing what rotors/porting it has unless you take it apart to check. Odds are it's a stock S5 though.
#3
I
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the block is an s4 t2. as for the trany i have no clue.
u can tell its s4 t2 block because the rotor housings do not have holes for the knock sensor in them.( s5 has holes in the rotor housing), and on s4 t2 theres is a hole in the center iron for that.which is visible in one of the pics. also the water pump housing is from an s4 as it only has 2 bolts.
u can tell its s4 t2 block because the rotor housings do not have holes for the knock sensor in them.( s5 has holes in the rotor housing), and on s4 t2 theres is a hole in the center iron for that.which is visible in one of the pics. also the water pump housing is from an s4 as it only has 2 bolts.
#4
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Ah yes, the S5 has the knock sensor on the housing instead of the iron.
Looks like you have a frankenstein motor, since the omp mounting location means the front cover is still S5 (it's farther forward to allow the electric motor to fit). If it's truly a S4 block with S5 front cover, I'd guess it was used in a S5 car so the original TB/OMP/ECU etc... could be used. This makes it seem even more likely that the tranny is S5 too.
Looks like you have a frankenstein motor, since the omp mounting location means the front cover is still S5 (it's farther forward to allow the electric motor to fit). If it's truly a S4 block with S5 front cover, I'd guess it was used in a S5 car so the original TB/OMP/ECU etc... could be used. This makes it seem even more likely that the tranny is S5 too.
#6
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I don't see any holes in irons, but quite a few in the housings themselves.
What do I need to do to tell. This is rediculous!
I'm glad I'm getting rid of everything rotary. How terrible is it that no one can tell for sure if it is an s4 or s5. Where do 6 ports come into play. That is what I have in my rex currently. I thought 6 port motors were s4?
I need to tell for sure so I can sell it. I don't want to tell someone the wrong info. I've already put up ads and had to pull them all down and start over again, a few times.
What do I need to do to tell. This is rediculous!
I'm glad I'm getting rid of everything rotary. How terrible is it that no one can tell for sure if it is an s4 or s5. Where do 6 ports come into play. That is what I have in my rex currently. I thought 6 port motors were s4?
I need to tell for sure so I can sell it. I don't want to tell someone the wrong info. I've already put up ads and had to pull them all down and start over again, a few times.
#7
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I don't see any holes in irons, but quite a few in the housings themselves.
What do I need to do to tell. This is rediculous!
I'm glad I'm getting rid of everything rotary. How terrible is it that no one can tell for sure if it is an s4 or s5. Where do 6 ports come into play. That is what I have in my rex currently. I thought 6 port motors were s4?
I need to tell for sure so I can sell it. I don't want to tell someone the wrong info. I've already put up ads and had to pull them all down and start over again, a few times.
What do I need to do to tell. This is rediculous!
I'm glad I'm getting rid of everything rotary. How terrible is it that no one can tell for sure if it is an s4 or s5. Where do 6 ports come into play. That is what I have in my rex currently. I thought 6 port motors were s4?
I need to tell for sure so I can sell it. I don't want to tell someone the wrong info. I've already put up ads and had to pull them all down and start over again, a few times.
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#8
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Can you pull all that tape off the intake ports so we can see more????????
ON the intermediate housing, can you take a picuture of the left side more than less looking at the forward side of it? Looking for the knock sensors hole that would be there IF it is a series four turbo intermediate housing.
And take the rag out of the intake ports so we can see better. Thank you. It looks a little like one of Franks engines. F r a n k e n s t e i n.
ON the intermediate housing, can you take a picuture of the left side more than less looking at the forward side of it? Looking for the knock sensors hole that would be there IF it is a series four turbo intermediate housing.
And take the rag out of the intake ports so we can see better. Thank you. It looks a little like one of Franks engines. F r a n k e n s t e i n.
#11
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3 Irons (blue) & 2 Housings (Silver). The rotor housings are S4, while the water pump housing is S5. Different kinds of housings.
The tranny is not NA like someone posted above. A ribbed case & removable bell housing mean it is turbo. As for whether it's S4 or S5, one difference I know of is that the transmission crossmembers are different & cannot be interchanged. Go look on ebay at the crossmembers that atkinsrotary sells to try to tell the difference.
The tranny is not NA like someone posted above. A ribbed case & removable bell housing mean it is turbo. As for whether it's S4 or S5, one difference I know of is that the transmission crossmembers are different & cannot be interchanged. Go look on ebay at the crossmembers that atkinsrotary sells to try to tell the difference.
#14
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water pump is an s4 btw, 2 bolt tstat housing
front cover is s4 also, turbo drain moves in s5.
trans is a turbo although s4 and s5 look the same
#15
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I still wish there was a picture of the intake ports on the front and rear side housings and the intemediate housing.
Yeah. I missed the knock sensor hole in the first picture. I was mesmerized by the rust, I reckon.
Yeah. I missed the knock sensor hole in the first picture. I was mesmerized by the rust, I reckon.
#16
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It looks more series four turbo than anything. The front and rear side housings show a passage just below the intake hole above it. Series five don't have that somewhat square hole below the intake hole.
That means it's series four. So series four front and rear side housings and series four intermediate housings and series four rotor housings. Basic engine is series four. With rust thrown in.
That means it's series four. So series four front and rear side housings and series four intermediate housings and series four rotor housings. Basic engine is series four. With rust thrown in.
#18
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I had someone come and inspect it. it is a Mazda factory rebuild. It has the "Nippon" seal stamped near the spark plugs. Both apex seals look to be in good condition. While turning the rotor(minimal turning has been done), both housing have compression.
This individual said it could be cleaned and ran, but a simple tear down, cleaning, then put back together would be recommended. It has been sitting for at least 5 years.
The coolant passeges that go to the heater core and to the throttle body have been clamped and welded shut and the 2 coolant passages above the intake(one in each housinig) are both opened and used for cooling purposes. It was used in a race car with no need for heater core or throttle body coolant passage.
Everything is s4.
Thanks for everyone that has chimed in to help identify this motor. I guess $800 for what this, is isn't a bad price.
This individual said it could be cleaned and ran, but a simple tear down, cleaning, then put back together would be recommended. It has been sitting for at least 5 years.
The coolant passeges that go to the heater core and to the throttle body have been clamped and welded shut and the 2 coolant passages above the intake(one in each housinig) are both opened and used for cooling purposes. It was used in a race car with no need for heater core or throttle body coolant passage.
Everything is s4.
Thanks for everyone that has chimed in to help identify this motor. I guess $800 for what this, is isn't a bad price.
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I had someone come and inspect it. it is a Mazda factory rebuild. It has the "Nippon" seal stamped near the spark plugs. Both apex seals look to be in good condition. While turning the rotor(minimal turning has been done), both housing have compression.
This individual said it could be cleaned and ran, but a simple tear down, cleaning, then put back together would be recommended. It has been sitting for at least 5 years.
The coolant passeges that go to the heater core and to the throttle body have been clamped and welded shut and the 2 coolant passages above the intake(one in each housinig) are both opened and used for cooling purposes. It was used in a race car with no need for heater core or throttle body coolant passage.
Everything is s4.
Thanks for everyone that has chimed in to help identify this motor. I guess $800 for what this, is isn't a bad price.
This individual said it could be cleaned and ran, but a simple tear down, cleaning, then put back together would be recommended. It has been sitting for at least 5 years.
The coolant passeges that go to the heater core and to the throttle body have been clamped and welded shut and the 2 coolant passages above the intake(one in each housinig) are both opened and used for cooling purposes. It was used in a race car with no need for heater core or throttle body coolant passage.
Everything is s4.
Thanks for everyone that has chimed in to help identify this motor. I guess $800 for what this, is isn't a bad price.
those "nippon" things get put on by the importer, if you overheat it they fall off, voiding the warranty.
$800 is still a good deal though, and i would pull it apart, you dont wanna have it smoke cause the oil or water seals are old, plus i dont like the color =)
#20
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Not me! Getting rid of everything rotary including the race car. If I take it apart and clean it, it will be sold for alot more. besides, I can't. Don't know anything about rotaries except much more complicated and massively more exspensive than piston motors.
Will be going back to reliable and cheaper sr20det's and 240's.
Will be going back to reliable and cheaper sr20det's and 240's.
#21
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Not me! Getting rid of everything rotary including the race car. If I take it apart and clean it, it will be sold for alot more. besides, I can't. Don't know anything about rotaries except much more complicated and massively more exspensive than piston motors.
Will be going back to reliable and cheaper sr20det's and 240's.
Will be going back to reliable and cheaper sr20det's and 240's.
How is 1/100 of the moving parts in a piston motor more complicated?
Where can you get an sr20 for $800?
Nobody works on them cause they're different, much easier than anything I've ever touched, a lawnmower is more complicated than rotaries.
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