please help 1986 rx7 gxl n/a cranks but wont start
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please help 1986 rx7 gxl n/a cranks but wont start
ok i just bought this car a few days ago for 500 dollars and it is my first car but i am not new to working on engines and i have been doing a lot of research on rotarie engines. ok to the car it cranks but will not start, its getting spark, fuel, and i have done the poor mans compression test and it seems to be good. i tried deflooding it by pulling the egi fuse and cranking it but after that all i got was a pop and thats it and thats all i have gotten out of it since i bought it. i would really appreciate any help and advice u guys can give me and would really like to get this car on the road.
#2
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Restab the CAS just to make sure it's proper, check everything @ the ECU to make sure you've got no shorts/anything else of the sort and then go and look for vacuum leaks.
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Could be one of a million thing... I would try to diagnose it using the FSM.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
There is a section in the FSM on diagnosing why your car won't start.
It will be under fuel and emissions most likely.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory_service_manual/
There is a section in the FSM on diagnosing why your car won't start.
It will be under fuel and emissions most likely.
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ifryrice jw what dose it mean to restab the crank angle sensor i did check the resistance of it and it came out correct according to the haynes manual specs
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but i did find a hose coming out of the firewall on the passenger side that is going to nothing and was wondering if it might be a vacume hose or something important that should be hooked up somewhere.
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#9
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This is a drain tube which allows water which forms in the evaporator to find its way out of the car. If you look on the inside of the car underneath the passenger side of the dash close to the console you will see a black plastic box which has a tube on the back of it which then goes through the firewall. I believe this is your tube in question. As a precautionary measure it is important to keep this tube clean of debris or the water will drop down onto the passenger floorboard instead of finding its way out of the car.
#11
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Water in the floorboard? no biggie. i have literally had about 3/4" - 1" on my passenger floorboard while driving around, over hills and crap with splices into the ECU. No problem. This doesnt help with your problem, however.
Download the FSM, get to the fuel and emissions section and start reading. These cars are ridiculously simple, especially the N/A's. Your car isn't starting for one of 3 reasons: No spark, no fuel, or no compression.. While no compression is a big issue, according to your compression test (albeit with the engine cold, obviously) let's ignore it to troubleshoot. If compression is good, it is either flooded or a failure in the electrical EFI system.
If we assume that compression is good, lets look at spark. You say its good, so lets move on, but just in case. pull the spark plugs one by one and crankwhile the plug is close to something metal and test to see a park.... you get the idea.
Check fuel. Is the pump pumping? are the fuel lines hooked up correctly? are the injectors pulsing? is the ECU seeing 12v with key to on from each injector (FSM comes in handy)? Are the connections to the injectors FUBAR'd?
If there are no problems with the above, then either the compression is screwed or its severely flooded.
If it's severely flooded, replace the plugs cuz they're wet, put a tiny bit of ATF or 2 stroke motor oil into each chamber through the sparkplug holes, or some air line into the engine and try to start it. Or push start it like i said.
Download the FSM, get to the fuel and emissions section and start reading. These cars are ridiculously simple, especially the N/A's. Your car isn't starting for one of 3 reasons: No spark, no fuel, or no compression.. While no compression is a big issue, according to your compression test (albeit with the engine cold, obviously) let's ignore it to troubleshoot. If compression is good, it is either flooded or a failure in the electrical EFI system.
If we assume that compression is good, lets look at spark. You say its good, so lets move on, but just in case. pull the spark plugs one by one and crankwhile the plug is close to something metal and test to see a park.... you get the idea.
Check fuel. Is the pump pumping? are the fuel lines hooked up correctly? are the injectors pulsing? is the ECU seeing 12v with key to on from each injector (FSM comes in handy)? Are the connections to the injectors FUBAR'd?
If there are no problems with the above, then either the compression is screwed or its severely flooded.
If it's severely flooded, replace the plugs cuz they're wet, put a tiny bit of ATF or 2 stroke motor oil into each chamber through the sparkplug holes, or some air line into the engine and try to start it. Or push start it like i said.
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dose it matter what quality/brand two stroke oil i use and do i put in both the leading and trailing spark plug holes or just one or the other and by all chambers do u mean all three sides of the rotary? also i checked that it is getting fuel by pulling the plugs and cranking and seeing if clouds of unburnt fuel come out (this is how i was told to do it by another member on this forum) is this a reliable way of checking if it is getting fuel? if my compression is screwed would it be cheaper/a better idea to get the engine i currently have rebuilt or to drop a new or used engine in there? and also how hard would it be to rebuild my self? my experience with rebuilding engines is 2 stroke dirt bikes (top end not bottom end not confident enough in myself to rebuild bottom end) sry for so many questions i am just trying to get all the information i can. again any information and help i can get is greatly appreciated
#13
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Sounds like it is simply severely flooded. With your plugs pulled and the EGI fuse removed, crank until no more fuel comes out. Get your plugs dry or get new ones in there to replace them. Put a little bit of 2 stroke in the top (trailing) plug holes, then turn the engine over BY HAND a few cranks. Replace the spark plugs. Try to start it. Better yet, push start it.
Check out these websites in your freetime to get to know rotary engines and their ins and outs better:
www.1300cc.com
www.FC3Spro.com
www.Aaroncake.net
www.rotorwiki.com
download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) from one of the top two websites listed above and start reading. A rebuild is stupid simple to do and stupid simple to **** up. rotaryressurection used to have a page up detailing EXACTLY how to rebuild one.
Check out these websites in your freetime to get to know rotary engines and their ins and outs better:
www.1300cc.com
www.FC3Spro.com
www.Aaroncake.net
www.rotorwiki.com
download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) from one of the top two websites listed above and start reading. A rebuild is stupid simple to do and stupid simple to **** up. rotaryressurection used to have a page up detailing EXACTLY how to rebuild one.
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thank you very much texFCTURBOII i greatly appreciate your advice and help. just one more thing if i did need to rebuild what kind of prices am i lookin at here? jw because my budget is limted to about $1000 until i find a job or christmas and again thank you
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I have nothing to add until you try the things Tex said, but don't worry about a rebuild if you don't have a specific problem! You most likely have a flooding/injector/ignition issue, and your engine internals are fine.
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ok i was going to go do all the deflooding and putting a little oil in the spark plug holes when i found this what i am wondering is what is it do i need to clean it before i reatach it and would this keep it from starting?[IMG]rx7 broken piece 2[/IMG]
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umm ok well i cant figure out how to put a picture on here if anyone could help me with that i would appreciate it but for now i will just have to describe it ok if your lookin straight down in between all four of the spark plugs there is this black bottle/jug kinda lookin thing that has a hose comin from the fire wall that is about a half inch in diameter and is goin to the jug thing but is only like halfway connected to the jug thing i was wonderin if this is a problem? (sry im not very good at describing things)
#21
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Hehehe.... no worries
Above the quick reply there is a toolbar with a option to link directly to something with a URL (the earth looking dealie) next to it is the picture adder thing. It needs a http link as well. load em to photobucket or something and copy the link from there
Above the quick reply there is a toolbar with a option to link directly to something with a URL (the earth looking dealie) next to it is the picture adder thing. It needs a http link as well. load em to photobucket or something and copy the link from there
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Even easier is the "Go Advanced" button, which will take you to the full interface. After that loads, scroll down to the button that says "Manage attachments." After that just hit the Browse button to choose your picture, then "upload."
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and i guess what my question is on this hose thing bein detached is should i just go ahead and reatach it or do i need to take any precautions like cleaning the jug thing out and also did this being detached affect anything?
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ok please pretend the posts about that tube being disconnected arent even there...fail. but anyways i havent yet had a chance to try push starting my cus it has been raining but i will be trying tomorrow and also how do i crank the engine by hand so i can do the 2 stroke oil thing. i have tried looking this up but i am on a school computer and it has this stupid content watch and it is set on overkill mode and wont even let me look at craigslist so i am asking here thanks in advance.