Please help!!!
Time for some factual corrections:
Testing for continuity is the proper way to see where a wire goes. At the same time, you'll see that the color of the wire at one end is the same as the other end. Try this with one probe on the Red/Green wire at the headlight switch and the other probe on the Red/Green wire at the cluster connector. Write the results down. Now repeat at the front sidemarkers' Red/Green wire and log the results. Repeat for the Taillights and you'll see a trend.
This applies to an un-hacked original harness, or one that has been properly repaired. For tracing wires that have questionable repairs, always do a continuity test and write down the results. Labeling wires as you go is good practice.
Making a suitable splice can be done two ways: using crimped butt splices or soldering. Both work and will be reliable if properly protected and supported with heat shrink. The way I personally do splices is by cutting off the vinyl insulation from a butt splice with a dremel, then covering it with two layers of heat shrink for sufficient strain relief. Using adhesive-lined heat shrink is the better choice for this.
Regardless of if you solder or crimp splices together, the wire should break before the joint fails. While I am not aware of any specifications for soldered joints as of yet, I do know that a crimped 16awg wire can hold about 40lbs as illustrated here:
Crimp Size Chart Information
I've done continuity tests on these 20+ year old harnesses and found that 0.07 ohms is what the meter consistently reads, regardless of the length of the wire in question. This is also my standard for any modifications as well, ensuring that any modifications are equal in conductivity to the unmodified version. If it read 0.07 ohm, can support 40lbs and read 0.07-0.10 ohms after the weight test, it passes. If it reads higher, I make myself redo that splice.
The best way to learn wiring is by doing, the same goes for welding, bodywork, painting and any other skill encountered with a car.
Testing for continuity is the proper way to see where a wire goes. At the same time, you'll see that the color of the wire at one end is the same as the other end. Try this with one probe on the Red/Green wire at the headlight switch and the other probe on the Red/Green wire at the cluster connector. Write the results down. Now repeat at the front sidemarkers' Red/Green wire and log the results. Repeat for the Taillights and you'll see a trend.
This applies to an un-hacked original harness, or one that has been properly repaired. For tracing wires that have questionable repairs, always do a continuity test and write down the results. Labeling wires as you go is good practice.
Making a suitable splice can be done two ways: using crimped butt splices or soldering. Both work and will be reliable if properly protected and supported with heat shrink. The way I personally do splices is by cutting off the vinyl insulation from a butt splice with a dremel, then covering it with two layers of heat shrink for sufficient strain relief. Using adhesive-lined heat shrink is the better choice for this.
Regardless of if you solder or crimp splices together, the wire should break before the joint fails. While I am not aware of any specifications for soldered joints as of yet, I do know that a crimped 16awg wire can hold about 40lbs as illustrated here:
Crimp Size Chart Information
I've done continuity tests on these 20+ year old harnesses and found that 0.07 ohms is what the meter consistently reads, regardless of the length of the wire in question. This is also my standard for any modifications as well, ensuring that any modifications are equal in conductivity to the unmodified version. If it read 0.07 ohm, can support 40lbs and read 0.07-0.10 ohms after the weight test, it passes. If it reads higher, I make myself redo that splice.
The best way to learn wiring is by doing, the same goes for welding, bodywork, painting and any other skill encountered with a car.
Did my t2 swap and I am having bad 3800 issues.
Going to run new ground wires for the ecu to the engine block and cut out the old ones.
If i still have the hesitation ill try this.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 111
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From: carson city nv
Time for some factual corrections:
Testing for continuity is the proper way to see where a wire goes. At the same time, you'll see that the color of the wire at one end is the same as the other end. Try this with one probe on the Red/Green wire at the headlight switch and the other probe on the Red/Green wire at the cluster connector. Write the results down. Now repeat at the front sidemarkers' Red/Green wire and log the results. Repeat for the Taillights and you'll see a trend.
This applies to an un-hacked original harness, or one that has been properly repaired. For tracing wires that have questionable repairs, always do a continuity test and write down the results. Labeling wires as you go is good practice.
Making a suitable splice can be done two ways: using crimped butt splices or soldering. Both work and will be reliable if properly protected and supported with heat shrink. The way I personally do splices is by cutting off the vinyl insulation from a butt splice with a dremel, then covering it with two layers of heat shrink for sufficient strain relief. Using adhesive-lined heat shrink is the better choice for this.
Regardless of if you solder or crimp splices together, the wire should break before the joint fails. While I am not aware of any specifications for soldered joints as of yet, I do know that a crimped 16awg wire can hold about 40lbs as illustrated here:
Crimp Size Chart Information
I've done continuity tests on these 20+ year old harnesses and found that 0.07 ohms is what the meter consistently reads, regardless of the length of the wire in question. This is also my standard for any modifications as well, ensuring that any modifications are equal in conductivity to the unmodified version. If it read 0.07 ohm, can support 40lbs and read 0.07-0.10 ohms after the weight test, it passes. If it reads higher, I make myself redo that splice.
The best way to learn wiring is by doing, the same goes for welding, bodywork, painting and any other skill encountered with a car.
Testing for continuity is the proper way to see where a wire goes. At the same time, you'll see that the color of the wire at one end is the same as the other end. Try this with one probe on the Red/Green wire at the headlight switch and the other probe on the Red/Green wire at the cluster connector. Write the results down. Now repeat at the front sidemarkers' Red/Green wire and log the results. Repeat for the Taillights and you'll see a trend.
This applies to an un-hacked original harness, or one that has been properly repaired. For tracing wires that have questionable repairs, always do a continuity test and write down the results. Labeling wires as you go is good practice.
Making a suitable splice can be done two ways: using crimped butt splices or soldering. Both work and will be reliable if properly protected and supported with heat shrink. The way I personally do splices is by cutting off the vinyl insulation from a butt splice with a dremel, then covering it with two layers of heat shrink for sufficient strain relief. Using adhesive-lined heat shrink is the better choice for this.
Regardless of if you solder or crimp splices together, the wire should break before the joint fails. While I am not aware of any specifications for soldered joints as of yet, I do know that a crimped 16awg wire can hold about 40lbs as illustrated here:
Crimp Size Chart Information
I've done continuity tests on these 20+ year old harnesses and found that 0.07 ohms is what the meter consistently reads, regardless of the length of the wire in question. This is also my standard for any modifications as well, ensuring that any modifications are equal in conductivity to the unmodified version. If it read 0.07 ohm, can support 40lbs and read 0.07-0.10 ohms after the weight test, it passes. If it reads higher, I make myself redo that splice.
The best way to learn wiring is by doing, the same goes for welding, bodywork, painting and any other skill encountered with a car.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: carson city nv
I fanaly got around to working on my car I had a few wires from the dash harness going to the ecu in the wrong spot. I ended up taking them out of the plug. Car does not cut out no more. Runs great, but still wont idle when warm. Does anybody have any ideas what would make it not idle when its warm?
