Hey,
I am looking to mod my '90 N/A GXL. This is what im lookin at gettin.

Bönez 2.5" SuperFlo System ($315 USD)
A'pex Dual N1 Exaust ($719.95)
2 Silencers for the Exaust ($46.40x2)
A'pex Power Intake System ($159.95)
Greddy performance 1.3 var 19psi radiator cap -- to increase pressure & boiling point ($24.95)

All together thats a $1312.65 bill. If you know how i can get these parts cheaper, that would be great.

If you have any opinions, suggestions, or objections, i would be glad to hear em.

Also, what order do you suggest putting these parts in? Anything I need to get along with these parts? I'm fairly new to RX-7's, so any advice would be great.

 

SO not catalytic converter for you

You might also have www.mariahmotorsports.com stamp your OEM headlight cover. They also sell cold air boxes.

 

a BOnez superflow system? I assume that is an intake? why not just go get a K&N cone filter for $30-$50 with a 2 1/2 end on it, and save a couple hundred bucks, for the same result?

 

its an exhaust system, but you are right, just buy the cone filter instead of the APexi intake system save about $120 and it does the same thing

 

that cat back is so much.... a local shop could probably build something for a few hundred. or there is a single one at www.corksport.com for alot less.

 

Skip the rad cap. Its not necessary at all. Your engine will be toast if the temperature goes above the already existing boiling point anyway, and the added pressure is just hard on the pump, hoses, and cooling realted components. Waste of cash, IMO.
Sean

 

Hmmm, some anti-rice guys i live by told me that the rad cap was a great inexpensive way to protect your car. Anyone else have an opinion on rad caps?

What should I buy instead of the Dual N1's that will get around that amount of flow?

Is there a specific intake you are referring to, that you have a physical price for also?

Thanks guys!

 

Hmm, you are going to spend $1300 and not gain much in terms of performance. You could get an RB header/presilencer/ mufflers set-up for less and should give you atleast 20% increase in power. Those cone filters don't do jack ****. Buy a K&N drop-in and keep the stock box. You want cold air cause it's about a 1-2% increase in power for every 10 degrees it is cooler. As for the $25 radiator cap, if you use 50-50 coolant/water, your boiling point is already high enough unless you plan on racing in the Saudi desert. Buying water wetter with that money makes for a better mod.

 

I think he's getting a cat b/c he needs to pass emissions, so your suggestion is moot.

As for K&N drop-in, well, that's another stupid point. The stock air box is incredibly restrictive. Ditching it is one of the first things you should do. True, you'll be getting some hot engine air, but you have gotten rid of one of the biggest restrictions in the system. A cold air box increases the performance slightly.
The only reason to have a stock airbox on your car is to limit boost creep on turbo cars with exhaust. This also goes to show how much of a restriction the stock airbox actually is, seeing how it is such a restriction to lower boost by 2-3 psi (with exhaust).

The 50/50 coolant mixture ideal you suggested is also incorrect. True, he should be using a a 50/50 mixture, but to state that this mixture has a high enough boiling point is incorrect. Ethylene Glycol has a lower boiling point than water, and thus the coolant mixture also has a lower boiling point. Straight water has a higher boiling point. Don't believe me, test it yourself. The 50/50 mixture is for collant system longevity, and is fine for a street car.

Sorry dude, didn't mean to attack you or anything, but your post was pretty inaccurate.

Sean Cathcart

 

any advie on what specific cat back system i should get that would compete with the dual n1 exaust and have a lower price?

 

You have to go dual? A single setup will make just as much or more power, and is a heck af a lot lighter.
I recommend custom, but if you wanna go pre-made, try the corksport or the single N1.

 

I was gonna go dual for cosmetic reasons (hehe, it just looks weird with the raise in the back fender with nothin under it), but if i can get more power out of the single, i'd deffinatley take it. hows the corksport in comparison with the N1?

 

OK,
so at the moment it looks like i should get:

Bonez SuperFlo system ($315)
A'pex N1 Exhaust ($519)
Bonez Street-Comp Intake Kit ($124)

Any thoughts, suggestions?

 

Hey, for about the same price as the N1 single you could get the RB dual and keep the OEM look.

 

I thought it was pretty funny that you were looking at the Apexi N1 Dual and in the same sentance you were going to get the silencers! What's the use? If you can't handle the noise of the N1's, then you should be looking at something quieter like the Racing Beat.

Actually the car will sound pretty good with the stock exhaust manifold, Bonez superflow cat and the N1 . (no silencer) No where near as loud as a header/silencer/cat back.

The Bonez intake kit is a rip off! All you get is an air filter, breather cap for the air pump and a mounting bracket. The filter you get is a generic brand. Skip the kit and get the K&N filter like everyone has mentioned. You can make the bracket to mount the AFM yourself.

The next mod after that would be the pinneapple racing 6-port sleeves for $50. http://www.pineappleracing.com/

 

the RB is over a hundred cheaper, but hows the performance?

 

I was going to buy the silencers if the car was too loud and i was getting stopped by the cops a lot. They're real pains about that where i live. They pulled over my friends stock Rav4 cause they thought the muffler's weren't hooked up.

What does installing the racing 6port sleeves take? Do i have to pull the engine and dissasemble it?

 

Are we talkin about the K&N Performance Air Filter that sells for $53?

 

No. We are talking about a generic (non car specific) K&N cone filter with a 2.5" opening. It bolts over your AFM via supplied clamp, and then you just figure out your own mount ($2 in bolts and nuts. pretty easy).

I don't know where the FIPK kit is for $53, but I would just buy the K&N cone. I can get you a part number if you need it.

 

That would be great!

I just uploaded a pic of my car, click gallery under my posts to view it. Since I just put it up, a mod has to check it before its viewable i guess though

 

RU-0970

 

Thats the car these are meant for. It currently has a racing beat exaust, but it needs to be replaced according to the professional racer i bought it from.

What parts will i need to fabricate if i get the K&N?

 

I would suggest just getting a free flow muffler, a good header, for example a single output RB header, and have a muff shop weld you a single 2-3" pipe from the header to the muffler, really cheap, really light, and be just as performance oriented as the expensive kits. Just my opinion.

 

I don't know what coolant you use, my 50-50 mix gives me 275 deg boil over protection. If your coolant temp ever crosses 220, you motor will be in serious trouble anyway. As for the stock airbox, I have yet to see Hp numbers proving that a cone made more power on the same 2nd gen under same conditions of air temp and density. Enlighten us, point us to a link or post some numbers.

 

Thanks for that juicy bit of advice. Actually, your coolant boils at 223 F. If you went with a 70/30 mix, you would have a better cooling coolant.
Under cap pressure, your coolant will boil at 264 Fahrenheit.
It would boil at 275 with a 70/30 mix.

As for the stock airbox, I gave proof that it was a restriction. Keeping the stock airbox lowers boost; if you get a cone filter, you get more boost. Boost increases as you decrease restrictions. Restrictions lower power to any engine. This is why you add an air filter, and free flowing exhaust; to remove engine restrictions. This is my proof, and If you had bothered to read my last post, you would have realised this.

You can continue to argue this point, but more and more it makes you look like you don't know what you are talking about.

If you DON'T think the stock air box is a restriction... tell me why race cars put the filter directly onto the turbo. Surely the filter gets heat soak, but they do so to eliminate the huge restriction of the the stock airbox, AFM, and s-tube.
Funny they don't keep the stock airbox, seeing as it doesn't limit airflow at all....

Don't need a dyno, airflow meter, or timeslip to realize that converting from a 4 square inch opening to a 120+ opening is the removal of a restriction. This is simplicity. Try and suck through a 1/16" straw, and then try to suck through 2" straw. Funny how the 2" straw is easier to suck through, and takes less power.... hmm.... but apparently, by your train of thought, the tinier straw should be easier....

Don't post **** if you don't know what you're talking about.