2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Plan to dump $10,000, but knows not where to start...

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Old 09-06-06, 06:57 PM
  #26  
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Start by dumping some money in my wallet.
Old 09-06-06, 07:17 PM
  #27  
The mystery of the prize.

 
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Originally Posted by Apathy
= 5 sec till he probably crashes and burns...
Just keepin' natural selection alive and well.
Old 09-06-06, 08:34 PM
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Including what I paid (8k, 7 years ago) for mine, I have close to 16k into it……and it’s not all that modded. Plus I did all the work myself...all but the cheap paint job.
Old 09-06-06, 09:28 PM
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10K=20B imho
Old 09-06-06, 09:47 PM
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With that kind of budget you can do a lot....
First point I want to make is that the vert is for enthusiasts only as it is the heaviest and slowest model FC. If the vert is what you want than you can work with it NA or do a turbo swap.

The NAs that really haul *** have a carb swap(with all supporting mods), ported motor, and a standalone. Carbed FCs are very fast but are very un-economical, loud, and just generally finicky, but still they beat a lot of turbos on the 1/4 mile so you gotta respect that.

The turbos are easier for getting power out of because you have the motor that is already set up for boost and there are plenty of bolt-on upgrades that really add power.

You have to decide if you want a street car, track car, or multipurpose before we waste much more time giving advice.
Old 09-06-06, 09:57 PM
  #31  
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buy a modern sportbike instead, better bang for your buck.

2004-2006 r1, 180hp, 380lbs.
Even better bang for the buck:
1996 zx11 paid 900 dollars 400 to get it in safe drivable condition, zx12 front and rear end and wheels (700) all parts required to turbocharge/fuel inject with megasquirt including turbo, header, forged pistons and machining required (2600)

looking for 300 whp under 500 pounds (no fuel)
Old 09-06-06, 10:05 PM
  #32  
affen

 
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The NAs that really haul *** have a carb swap(with all supporting mods), ported motor, and a standalone. Carbed FCs are very fast but are very un-economical, loud, and just generally finicky
?
or get a standalone ecu and have better control over fuel and ignition...

but still they beat a lot of turbos on the 1/4 mile so you gotta respect that.
again... ??? Are you talking against a stock TII? That's hardly fair, and it wouldnt take much to make the TII faster.
Old 09-06-06, 10:07 PM
  #33  
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send me the first $100 of your 10k, and i'll tell you exactly what to do with the rest of it.
Old 09-06-06, 10:11 PM
  #34  
Defected to the dark side

 
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Holy crap...i'll give u my n/a for $10k...canadian even

Seriously tho...buy a $5000 tII and spend the other $5000 on a beater car.....trust me u'll need one
Old 09-06-06, 11:27 PM
  #35  
The mystery of the prize.

 
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Originally Posted by slo
Even better bang for the buck:
1996 zx11 paid 900 dollars 400 to get it in safe drivable condition, zx12 front and rear end and wheels (700) all parts required to turbocharge/fuel inject with megasquirt including turbo, header, forged pistons and machining required (2600)

looking for 300 whp under 500 pounds (no fuel)
A bike like that is only good for one thing, > 200mph on a long straight road.

Why you would want to go that fast on a dated 500 lb heap is beyond me... you've obviously never ridden a sub-400 lb modern bike over 160. My 2002 zx-6 is about that weight, and boy am I glad it can't go 200+ mph... it's already horrible at 155mph compared to the 04 r1, bikes have come a long way since then.

If you want even better value and you just want to go fast in a straight line before you die trying to turn or stop, get a kaw 750 turbo and upgrade to a small car turbo, it's alot less work and similar end result.

When you have $10,000 to spend, there are some incredible machines out there ready to be had and show you a completely different world.

I think this is probably bullshit, any individual who has $10k burning a hole in their pocket doesnt blow it on a 2nd gen vert rx-7... Sure there are plenty of people who have spend $10,000+ on their 2nd gen *over time* (I sure as hell don't want to add up my FC's receipts!) but if you have $10,000 in hand there are far better things to do with it. Just my opinion.
Old 09-07-06, 12:29 AM
  #36  
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[QUOTE]A bike like that is only good for one thing, > 200mph on a long straight road.

Why you would want to go that fast on a dated 500 lb heap is beyond me... you've obviously never ridden a sub-400 lb modern bike over 160. My 2002 zx-6 is about that weight, and boy am I glad it can't go 200+ mph... it's already horrible at 155mph compared to the 04 r1, bikes have come a long way since then.

If you want even better value and you just want to go fast in a straight line before you die trying to turn or stop, get a kaw 750 turbo and upgrade to a small car turbo, it's alot less work and similar end result.

When you have $10,000 to spend, there are some incredible machines out there ready to be had and show you a completely different world."[QUOTE]

you clearly don't know what your talking about, some people want bikes for other than track day use. With the zx12 suspension and good tires my 11 is easily on par a zx12 or hayabusa in the turns. But the reason you clearly don't know what your talking about is 750 turbo comment, comparing a 750 turbo to even a stock zx11 is like comparing an R1 to to a zx11. And they won't handle anywhere near 300 WHP without big money spent on hard engine parts. oh and your 02 zx6 is the same weight as my 96 zx11, and the weight is why its unstable at 155 do you actually believe that. Your not taking into account wheelbase and rake or the fact the your R1 probably has a steering dampner and the zx6 does not.
I put at least 500 miles on an 05 zx10 and while the handling was amazing, my 11 is a much better streetbike.

and BTW I have around 5K into my bike not 10.

Last edited by slo; 09-07-06 at 12:51 AM.
Old 09-07-06, 12:39 AM
  #37  
I beckon the thaw~

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I appreciate the concerns of the press, and advice of how stupid I am of even considering spending such an amount on such an out dated vehicle, but Im an enthusiaste..! Im young, but fare from stupid. This car will be the only car that I'll be using for "awhile", and dreed newer modle vehicles. I've always wanted an RX, and this just happend to be the one chosen, I need people to encourage this desire, not belittle the fact.. That's the reason I bother with this sight in the first place. And this car is not just any car. ITS AN RX7!!
Old 09-07-06, 12:54 AM
  #38  
I beckon the thaw~

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Im not looken for 60mils to gal, but a reasonable amount. Cruisen amount through the city streets & highway. Can still nock a maxi or two (350z?)
Old 09-07-06, 01:03 AM
  #39  
I beckon the thaw~

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And NO!, "SayNoToPistons", whats it face, and another joky, I will not feed the mouth's of your children.lol, nor will I donate into some wierd, PiMp My RiDe personaL... This car really needs a great owner. One who will nurse it to health. It backfires goin into third, and yes Im the character whose rear right sqeks and wns. The bushing has gone bad..
Old 09-07-06, 01:52 AM
  #40  
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with that much money
i would start by removing the air cleaner bolts...
and installing a new car.

10k into a FC is a bit unjustified.
Old 09-07-06, 01:52 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by pengarufoo
buy a modern sportbike instead, better bang for your buck.

2004-2006 r1, 180hp, 380lbs.
Hed kill himself.

Ive ridden a 95 zx6e and a 1991 zx6d and both felt fine at 150mph. I dont get what your complaining about with your newer one.

Last edited by dr0x; 09-07-06 at 01:59 AM.
Old 09-07-06, 05:44 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by speed_monkey
?
or get a standalone ecu and have better control over fuel and ignition...



again... ??? Are you talking against a stock TII? That's hardly fair, and it wouldnt take much to make the TII faster.

Carbed 6 port FCs are ****** fast man... I saw one at the track doin low 13s all day. Yes they are faster than stock turbo2s and a big percentage of the modified ones too. They are not very streetable and get terrible gas mileage but hey if he wants to put 10k into a vert... carbs mean business, you wont touch that by retuning the fuel injection.
Old 09-07-06, 06:00 PM
  #43  
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yep - a carb can be fast on a ported 6-port...

But an tuned EMS with ITB's will be faster - bottom line. I don't know why people seem to think that a carb has some magical capability over precision tuned fuel injection.....theres a REASON OEM's don't use it anymore. Yes mileage is one of them, but capability is the other.
Old 09-07-06, 06:03 PM
  #44  
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Exactly, the gain you get from a carb is because you are dropping the AFM and the shitty stock ECU. A standalone does the same, and gives you more presice tuning of BOTH fuel and ignition, not to mention all the cool little features you get.
Old 09-07-06, 06:23 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by speed_monkey
Exactly, the gain you get from a carb is because you are dropping the AFM and the shitty stock ECU. A standalone does the same, and gives you more presice tuning of BOTH fuel and ignition, not to mention all the cool little features you get.
Cool, that makes sense. I know the whole advantage to it is being able to pull in more air and fuel. I just havent seen anyone else locally make that kind of power with an NA. This guy was an old-timer who came from the 12A days so maybe he was just biased towards what he knows.. still i was pretty impressed with what he could do with that setup, it looked mean too.
Old 09-07-06, 07:01 PM
  #46  
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All else being equal, EFI is better. It'll be more powerful, have better drivability, and better milage. I've got a PDF of an article where they compared several Webber style carbs to some Webber style TB's on the same motor, same manifold, etc. The TB's were the most powerful.
Old 09-12-06, 02:40 AM
  #47  
Balance is key..

 
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They are probably right gbaki, but if you really need to keep this car, then go for it!
Old 09-12-06, 03:06 AM
  #48  
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I like this buyer's guide and have used it myself:
http://www.rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide/bguide.html

I'd start with a well running RX-7 before you dump $10k into fixing a lousy one. $10K is plenty to get a clean car and all the reasonable mods, with some money left over. Next, according to what I've read around here anyway:

1. Maintenance: Always do this first, or you'll be paying more later. Get a Haynes or other manual, do a 60,000 mile tune-up. Keep the car well maintained after that and fix problems as soon as they arise.

2. Handling: Is more fun than horsepower. Plus it's not good to have power without control. In order (I think): suspension bushings, shocks, tires, wheels, tower brace(s), springs, sway bar(s). It is also helpful to take driving courses.

3. Power: In order (I think): cold air intake, cat, muffler, cone intake, intercooler (turbos), flywheel. Past 250HP you need new fuel injectors and possibly other upgrades (check the forums to be sure). Get those before you get too much power or you could blow your engine or something else.

4. Weight Reduction: Improves acceleration, braking and city mileage. S4 N/A (146HP): ~20 lbs. = 1HP. S5 turbo (200HP): ~15 lbs. = 1HP. Modded 250HP RX-7: ~12 lbs. = 1HP. ~150lbs. = 5% drop in braking distance (unless the brakes lock). ~175lbs. = 1 mpg city. An aluminum hood and convertable wheels (if you get a non convertable) is a good place to start. Search the forums for more.

Search FAQs and forums for more details. After this comes the crazier stuff and more money. You may also want to upgrade your brakes, especially if you take your car to a race track.

EPA rated mpg is 18/24. Actual is usually 17/25 in a nice running non-turbo, 9-13mpg in a poor running RX-7.

Last edited by ericgrau; 09-12-06 at 03:35 AM.
Old 09-12-06, 08:23 AM
  #49  
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Put a downpayment on a FD.
Old 09-12-06, 12:59 PM
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Rotary $ > AMG $

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Originally Posted by gbaki


Plan to dump $10,000, but knows not where to start... And still so fare to go... HHHHEEEELLLPP My fellow "7" enthusiast....
'Dump' is such an appropriate word...


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