Pinning the motor?
09-07-11, 01:08 AM
#1
Pinning the motor?
I had a question about this. If I drilled out the dowel pins, how should I do this? Should I make it so the pins slide freely in and out of the motor, or should I drill them out so that the dowels become a transition fit - basically I would have to hammer them into the motor. Thus making it almost one piece.
How do some of the other 'kits' work with this? Are they a transition fit?
How do some of the other 'kits' work with this? Are they a transition fit?
09-07-11, 01:48 AM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: E-L Netherlands
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im no expert in this, but i am an engineer..
I would say, use a reamer of the correct size and you are done.
Making it a tight fit and using a hammer could cause problems due to different thermal expansion, it also makes (dis)assembly more difficult
I would say, use a reamer of the correct size and you are done.
Making it a tight fit and using a hammer could cause problems due to different thermal expansion, it also makes (dis)assembly more difficult
09-07-11, 11:06 AM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
notice that the PFC/motec people (the japanese) can run 700hp on stock everything just fine, but the haltech people struggle to get to 400hp before the engine breaks catastrophically?
09-08-11, 06:48 PM
#7
FC3S
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: I come from a land downunder
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A stud kit or dowelling is a good idea if your going for alot of hp. No real point if your going to be at around 400hp or so. But everyone has their own opinions on the matter. His ecu argument is a load of ****, it's about the tune not what ecu is used.
Trending Topics
09-08-11, 07:47 PM
#8
If you are going to dowel pin the engine, mimic the same clearance as the OEM dowels in the engine. They are not a " snug " fit which requires a hammer. If you do that the engine will wipe out the engine bearings, then the rest of the motor comes next.
Unless you can machine the motor properly, don't do it. Our stud kit would be a much better alternative for you. I have a customer make over 900rwhp with just our stud kit, no extra dowels.
Unless you can machine the motor properly, don't do it. Our stud kit would be a much better alternative for you. I have a customer make over 900rwhp with just our stud kit, no extra dowels.
09-08-11, 08:00 PM
#9
talking head
goopy oversize bolt kit is for the home guy, the rest requires a shop to get it right
if you select the s5 engine plates then the dowelling is not really necessary this side of 400 rwhp
spend the money instead on time to set up the ecu correctly
if you select the s5 engine plates then the dowelling is not really necessary this side of 400 rwhp
spend the money instead on time to set up the ecu correctly
09-08-11, 09:37 PM
#11
The expansion coefficient of Aluminum is roughly twice that of steel, meaning that your clearance between the the pins and the housings will actually grow as the motor heats up. I agree that you should just use the same clearance as the stock pins.
