mguire

http://www.pineappleracing.com/Prod-pr6pi.html
Get the sleeves if you can do the install yourself. They only cost $50 and they do make a difference! If I did this mod to your car without you knowing about it and you took it for a drive, you'd be like what the hell? Why is my car so fast? Who's pushing me every time I hit 5000rpm? If you don't notice a difference, then they are probably not opening properly. In my experience, you only notice mods that either:
a) make the car louder or
b) give you at least 10 HP
and this mod doen't effect the sound much, if any.

I did the install about 3 weeks ago, it was kinda fun, frustrating at times, but not exactly free because I found about $200 worth of stuff that was really old and crispy and needed to be replaced (coolant hoses to TB, etc, oil injector lines, spider vac hose, lower intake manifold gasket which has to be scraped like crazy to get it off). Had the injectors professionally cleaned too. In retrospect, I'm Very pleased. Haven't been this pleased with a mod since I got headers and a high flow cat.

I'll post a dyno sheet when I make it to the dyno.

-Eric

Samps

I agree, but it is not a 10 hp jump; maybe like 4-5. It is a big enough improvement to justify spending $200. I would guess it has about the same impact as a good cone air filter.

mguire

Are you sure your sleeves are opening all the way? When I had my manifold off, I noticed that to get the sleeves fully open (vertical) the shaft has to rotate all the way to the black stop. My canisters bottomed out like 10-15 degrees before that when I put it back together!

Samps

I know they open; but I have no idea if they open all the way. How did you adjust this. If they are not opening up all the way; how do you make them open all the way? I had not seen a method to do this.

mguire

I don't know if the problem is unique to my car or not. My car is an model '86 with a early '85 manufacture date.
Replacing the canisters might have fixed it, I don't really know. You should verify that you have a problem before doing anything.

I drilled a new hole in the plunger rod below the old one so I could attach the lever closer to the canister (ie shorten the rod). You have to file the rod flat, drill a new hole of the same size just below the old one, and then cut off the top of the rod including the old hole.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

A cone filter with a cold air box is only good for about 1rwhp. Blake (On this forum) did a before and after. CJ

tmak26b

I will stick with my stock intake cut open. I had a cone before, I dont think it is as good as the stock setup with the cone cut

Ed Kasminian

On the dyno I opened my six-ports after the first run and it was a good 12 rwhp. thats just wiring them open with a bungee cord so with those racing sleeves you should get more hp than that. just look at them they direct the air right into the port. With the stock one the air & fuel hit a 90 degree angle. I put down 149 to the wheels with my stock port gslse and thats just with exhaust as my only major mod I still have stock fuel injection. I have dyno sheet too.

tmak26b

wow 149rwhp, what does it have. thats a crap load

Bambam7

You mean you dyno'd it before and after?
I have to disagree with you there....
WHen I took out my stock air box, and replaced it with a cone filter, I noticed a definate bump at 5500 that I didn't get before. I KNOW it's good for at least 5 HP min- felt to me like 10, but I probably had a very clogged filter.
The cold air box made a noticable improvent too- mostly when accelerating from a stop in HOT city driving. It feels a lot more responsive off the line instead of sucking in 150 degree air for the first 5 seconds.
I noticed better top speed response too with the ram air...

Ed Kasminian

My bad to be exact it was 146.8 rwhp and 128.4 ft-lbs torque. heres the dyno chart. Im sure I will not notice the 3 hp. the exhaust is a racing beat street port setup.

mguire

Hey CJ, what exactly was the baseline? Was that the manufacturers air filter with the snorkel attached on an NA?

Ed Kasminian

Why would I lie those numbers are not that impressive. I have full racing beat streetport exhaust, underdrive main & alt pulleys,cone filter, I keep the six ports open all the time the engine is very stout when I had a compression test. My bad the exact rwhp is 146.8 and torque is 128.4 ft-lbs. the three hp diffrence is night and day. Lol

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

mguire, you can ask Blake at the next meeting exactly.

BamBam, i did'nt run the dyno. I'm just repeating what he said in an earlier post. CJ

Hey, where is my ecu anyways??

mprime

I have to get these. They sound great for the price. On your 86 do you have the sleeves wired open? I think after all these year I know my ports are working but whether or not they are opening 100% is something else.

mguire

I don't have them wired open because I don't want to loose midrange power. When I wired them open, my 3rd gear 40-70 time (~3.0-5.5 krpm) slowed to 6.8 sec. With them wired closed, it's 6.1 sec. With them working properly, it's 5.8 sec (with the pineapple sleeves). I use pressure from the ACV air dump tube to open them (they start to open around 4.5 krpm). With this method they open independantly of load, so you can rev the car in neutral and see them open in your driveway. When you have the lower intake manifold off, you can see if they are opening all the way or not.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

thats a good idea, but who wants all the emissions crap?

Raymr

Mguire,

That sounds like a clean simple solution. How did you modify the ACV air dump to do that? My N/A is totally stock.

mguire

Drill a hole in the air dump tube a little smaller that the barb you will use to attach the "vac" line to. Cut the barb at a 30 or 45 degree angle facing towards the airpump to scoup up the air. Put in in the tube and seal it with rubber cement or high vacuum grease. Attach the line to the accuators and plug the old line from the split air pipe. Mine opened at about 5k rpm when I did this, so to get them to open a little earlier, I put a hose clamp on the end of the air dump tube (under the passenger side front bumper) and tightened it until the pressure came up a bit. The ports will open when cruising or accelerating above your set rpm, and close on decelleration.

Good luck, it's easy!

Blake

CJ is correct. I netted exactly 1rwhp from the change. This was, however, just peak hp; the torque curve shifted up in the RPM band which made it feel a little better. The baseline was on a totally stock 89 GTUs and the cone filter was the only change I made between runs. Same dyno. Obviously, 1hp is rather small to consider statistically valid, but my runs were very consistent and the real identifiable change was the shape/location of the torque curve. When I replaced the cats with a Racing Beat downpipe and presilencer, it was good for a 23rwhp gain. Might have been less without the cone filter, as the stock airbox might have become a restriction with the additional airflow. Also consider that on the dyno the cone filter and cold air box will not receive much cold air, as it would while driving, so that benefit is marginalized.

To sum up:
(1) on a stock RX-7, the stock airbox is not a big restriction.
(2) going to a cone filter alone might shift your torque curve up slightly, but will not net you big RWHP gains on the dyno.
(3) the stock airbox might be restrictive when the rest of the system is opened up, but I have no firm numbers to prove it.
(4) while a cone filter on an otherwise stock car will not give you the benefit of less restriction, it might still provide you with the benefit of a colder intake charge, which won't be realized on the dyno.

Hope that helps...