Pin hole found In fuel feed line ~ need suggestions
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
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From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
I've found a pin hole leak that I'm having trouble sealing. Partially cured JB Weld just melts when contacted with gasoline. Currently, I've got a bucket under the leak. What do you guys suggest to seal this leak? AN fittings/lines will supplement my stock lines by Spring time so I'm looking for a (semi) permanent fix In the mean time.
Last edited by silverrotor; Sep 4, 2004 at 07:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
I guess I should have been more clear.
It's on the hardline, just below the driverside Rocker Panel. Is there not anything that can be done to seal It awhile the line still mounted?
It's on the hardline, just below the driverside Rocker Panel. Is there not anything that can be done to seal It awhile the line still mounted?
get a piece of fuel injection hose with an ID of similar size to the hardline, split it along the length of it 'wrap' it around the bit in question, tighten with two hsoe clamps on either side of the pin hole.
hey presto, thats nearly a permenent fix..
hey presto, thats nearly a permenent fix..
Is the leak in the feed or return line? In a stock system the fuel pressure in the feed line is high enough that I doubt any amount of 'goop' will seal the leak pressure. You'll need to cut out the corroded section of line, and replace it with a section of hose and hose clamps. Clean the area around where you propose to cut first, and then cut. That way you have a clean surface to slide the hose on after cutting. I wouldn't bother with the slit hose idea myself. Fuel under pressure will find that slit and leak.
If it's the return line, then your options do improve somewhat. There is a product called 'Seal-All' that comes in a metal tube at the local hardware store. I have seen it seal some pretty nasty fuel leaks successfully. The slit hose option might work here as well, if the tube is well cleaned in the area of the leak and the rubber can actually make a seal on the smooth tube surface. If it's all corroded a flaking (likely), then once again I wouldn't bother with this method.
If the line is badly corroded, you are better off to fabricate and install a new line rather than trying to save the old one. Just the bending and jiggling that occurs while you work on the leak may create another... Keep in mind you don't want to be forced to repeat this job in the dead of winter!
If it's the return line, then your options do improve somewhat. There is a product called 'Seal-All' that comes in a metal tube at the local hardware store. I have seen it seal some pretty nasty fuel leaks successfully. The slit hose option might work here as well, if the tube is well cleaned in the area of the leak and the rubber can actually make a seal on the smooth tube surface. If it's all corroded a flaking (likely), then once again I wouldn't bother with this method.
If the line is badly corroded, you are better off to fabricate and install a new line rather than trying to save the old one. Just the bending and jiggling that occurs while you work on the leak may create another... Keep in mind you don't want to be forced to repeat this job in the dead of winter!
I'm with renns...Just cut the hard line at the hole, removing maybe a 1/2" (12mm) section, and shove a hi-pressure fuel injection hose splice onto it, long enough to go at least 2" (50mm) on either side. Clamp the hell out of it, because without the normal "joggles" at the ends of the hard line, you might still see some leakage. Temporary fix, anyway.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Been there, done that.
Cut out the offending section, and replace with rubber "injection" hose. I used a scrap of stainless braided that I had around for that "bling bling" look. Make sure to use GOOD T-bar clamps, and not those horrid regular hose clamps...
Cut out the offending section, and replace with rubber "injection" hose. I used a scrap of stainless braided that I had around for that "bling bling" look. Make sure to use GOOD T-bar clamps, and not those horrid regular hose clamps...
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
Thanks for the suggestions. I had forgot about It last night and sure enough the value of the Neopolian Ice cream bucket has shot up In value - 10 fold.
I'll go with the slitted FI line (car Is stored) just to keep It tamed and If that doesn't hold well than I'll cut off the diseased section and add a section of rubber FI line.
I'll go with the slitted FI line (car Is stored) just to keep It tamed and If that doesn't hold well than I'll cut off the diseased section and add a section of rubber FI line.
I'd a gone with cutting out the bad section and adding a fuel injection hose b/t the two. I mean, think about it. Your going to buy some fuel injection hose of with a inside dia of the outside dia of the bad pipe. So right there you've already spent the money....the same amount of money as if you were going to splice the bad section with a piece of fuel injection hose.
So save yourself some grief, and just cut the old out and spice the section with some fuel injection hose. Just an opinion. Similar to a couple above.
I'm sitting here thinking, I could do that job in about a hour and a half considering I'd have to go to the auto store to buy the hose and two clamps.
So save yourself some grief, and just cut the old out and spice the section with some fuel injection hose. Just an opinion. Similar to a couple above.
I'm sitting here thinking, I could do that job in about a hour and a half considering I'd have to go to the auto store to buy the hose and two clamps.
If you do go with cutting out the section of pipe and adding some more, make sure to make a bit of a barb on the end of it.
I used a center punch to do a similar thing once.
Helps in the sealing of it no end.
However I'd suggest using my first method for tempory relief then get it done properly at some stage by a pro (braze it or something) when you have the time.
Theres plenty of places that do petrol tank repairs that would not charge much at all to get it done.
..But thats just me.
I used a center punch to do a similar thing once.
Helps in the sealing of it no end.
However I'd suggest using my first method for tempory relief then get it done properly at some stage by a pro (braze it or something) when you have the time.
Theres plenty of places that do petrol tank repairs that would not charge much at all to get it done.
..But thats just me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 7,592
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From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
The line Is off the return Hard Line so this puts me at a little bit of ease. I'm not Inclined to cut the line for fear of a spark of some sort.
I can't Imagine whipping out my Dremol with a cutting disk on It than kaboom. 
I still have plenty of new Fuel Line that I purchased when I changed my old ones. With what I originally asked for I was looking for some kinda liquid hardner of somesort like renns had suggested. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions.
I can't Imagine whipping out my Dremol with a cutting disk on It than kaboom. 
I still have plenty of new Fuel Line that I purchased when I changed my old ones. With what I originally asked for I was looking for some kinda liquid hardner of somesort like renns had suggested. Anyway, thanks for the suggestions.
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