is there anyway remove it without buying the $100 tool. or is there a cheaper tool that I can buy?

 

You may be able to rent one from an auto parts store, but I've only removed them using the tool. I'm not aware of any other way to do it.

 

yea if you have an autozone by you they do "free" tool rental. basically you buy it at wholesale price then return it.
thats how i did it too

 

i've heard of people using a dremel to remove it. also, others have had luck with the harbor freight puller.

 

If the bearing is in tact, use the tool.

If the tool cannot remove it you will need to grind a "channel" all the way down it with a Dremel and then chip it out with a chisel.

 

Do you they item # of that harbor freight puller? I'm going to try that

 

Which one of these do you think I should buy and try?

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

 

if any, it would be the 3rd or 4th one down. someone made a thread about it a few months ago but i forget the title.

 

The 4th one is the one that was mentioned a few months back.

 

Thanks guy.

 

The real deal tool is so damn nice to have.... that 4th down on the list puller looks like it would work though....

 

Get the puller, the 100 bucks is worth the time and pain in the *** that would be there if you didn't!

 

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

Here is my thread-

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng#post8871977

 

from someone that has been there. GET THE TOOL... I spent 1.5 hrs trying to cut, grind and chip the bearing out. Ended up cutting the e-shaft some but finally got it out!! The whole time i was cursing and wishing I had the tool!!

I now have the tool!!

 

Took me less than 5 minutes, including screwing in the proper jaws, banging out the bearing, wiping down the tool, closing and latching the case.

 

to answer a seperate part of your question there are alternate ways of removing the pilot bearing without grinding it out. One method that I am quite fond of and so long as your bearing isn't welded in, is to pack the hole where the bearing is full of bearing grease and use the clutch alignment tool to press in on the grease and it essentially uses the hydraulic force to press the bearing out. I've heard that it takes a couple of tries as it isn't a complete seal so you will lose some grease around the end of the alignment tool. My mechanic when changing my clutch did essentially the same thing only he used the palm of his hand instead of the alignment tool and it came out quite nicely for him.

If you can get the alignment tool trick to work it saves you about 95 dollars seeing as to how the plastic alignment tools are cheep and easy to come by. and thats my $.02

 

+1 - Have done this many times, except when my bearing was totally shot and wedged in there.

 

I had this issue.. i just took my engine down to mazda. they Pulled it for me for Free.. the one in Kirkland. They have a took at hand

 

Come on guys, the OP doesn't need advice from people who have no idea how to do this!


"The method that you are quite fond of"

"I've heard that it takes a couple of tries..."

You've never really done this have you?

I'll give you a $50 bill to see your mechanic pull the pilot bearing with the 'palm of his hand'. What is he a freakin' Jedi mechanic?

This stops here. Proof, or it never happened.

You too! How many times have you used the grease method? One time? 10 times? How many is many?

So what do you do the other times, you know, "when my bearing was totally shot and wedged in there?" The Jedi Palm trick?

If you have done more than one, you KNOW you how solidly a pilot bearing fits into the e-shaft-when it's NOT 'totally shot and wedged in there'.

 

Whats with the flaming?

I've personally done it 4 times, and witnessed it being done another 3. The method is exaggerated here. Most of the time it isn't a "smack it and it comes out" kinda deal. I've had to smack the alignment tool a couple times with a rubber mallet. Some of the time, a lot of grease shoots out around the edges. You repack and try again. It's not a miracle method, but it does work. I agree with you: The mechanic using the palm of his hand is unlikely, but there's no reason to come down on us for offering him a cheap alternative, that has a reasonable chance of success.

I used a dremel to remove a good portion of the bearing, and then used a punch to bend the bearing into itself. Then I pulled it with a pair of needle nose vice grips.


Watch This - This guy does it. No clue what that is off of, but the method and materials used are basically the same.

I'll also prove that it can be done. In about a week I'm purchasing an engine from another board member. It just so happens I'm planning on replacing the pilot bearing . I will record the process and post the result here. How's that?

 

you can try the grease packing method, it works sometimes for me.
I remember I once had to pack in wet paper towel because I didnt have time for grease in a rusty ka24 240sx engine to get the pilot bearing out so I can put a new one. Usually anything that uses force to push it out will work.

If you have a dremel, its easier to use that but becareful not to damage anything else.

 

just for some clarity, my mechanic when he lived around here used the ball of his hand to pack in the grease and build pressure as this was more efficient than the alignment tool. And once the pilot bearing started to move he would then use his finger to pull it out. No jedi mind trick just a different method.

 

Hey, no flaming involved. Don't be so thin skinned. There are LOTS of posters that repeat 'bullshit' and have never experienced the detail they are advising about.

I did *not* question whether the grease method worked, just your statement that you had done it 'many times'.

I appreciate that you have done it.

I am quite shocked that you have done it more than once.


Video that FC pilot removal and post it up.

BTW, don't you get enough *oil* and *grease* on you when working on an FC? Do you really want to add more to the mess?

If you are *ever* going to do another pilot bearing, you really should buy the harbor freight tool. Buy nice tools and enjoy using them.


The story changes, but remains just as unlikely. Using his palm to pack the grease, he loosens the pilot bearing until it starts to move. Then he picks it out with his finger.

I hold my stance on the 'Jedi Palm Trick'.

 

I tried the grease trick with my neighbor but it was stuck in there too good, we were going to try something else but I came back the next day and he had bought a bearing removal kit already lol, and now I believe he has just about any tool you need to work on the mechanical parts of a car haha

 

I had no trouble at all with the Harbor Freight tool when I did my clutch job a couple weeks ago. Granted, that was with a mazda installed pilot bearing that still had the dust seal and was completely intact.