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pictures of custom cold air box (56k beware)

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Old 07-20-03, 02:28 PM
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Talking pictures of custom cold air box (56k beware)

Well not totally done with the airbox yet as I have not mad the lid or received my K&N filter (its on order should be here monday). Well here are some pix of it.

just painted


front view


left side view


top view


rear corner view (crappy welding haha)


last one which is a color comparison
Old 07-20-03, 02:31 PM
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let me know what you guys think. I spent alot of time on this and its turning out pretty good if I may say so myself.

The color I used was duplicolor aluminum paint after I had primered it. I used black vacuum hoses to go around the sharp edges so as not to scratch the paint in the engine bay.

Any questions feel free to ask.
Old 07-20-03, 02:34 PM
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Looks nice!

Any chance of taking a dremel and smoothing out the welds?
Old 07-20-03, 02:37 PM
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Well I didnt have access to a dremel but I did try to file it down but not much luck with that as the angles to file them were kind of awkward. The ugly welds and folds at the back of the box will not be noticable at all unless u really stick your head behind there. As for the small excess solder welds on the interior of the box the cone filter will hide of some that.
Old 07-20-03, 05:00 PM
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pix of CAB installed





Old 07-20-03, 07:43 PM
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It looks really nice, a lot like the attomica design. Notice any preformance bonuses? Keep us posted.
Old 07-20-03, 09:15 PM
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This air box is made from attomicas templates but I modified them to meet my own creative design and needs. I just finished making the lid but need to wait until I can borrow my friends drill bit set so I can screw in the hinges.

As of now I have not run the car with it yet as I am still waiting on the K&N filter I had to special order.
Old 07-20-03, 09:15 PM
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that looks like about exacly what im making. looks nice
Old 07-20-03, 11:02 PM
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Wow man, looks great. I love the craftsmanship!
Old 07-21-03, 12:20 AM
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If I was gonna do it all over again it would look so much nicer and be alot sturdier. It would also take me probably half the time that it took with all the errors I made.

If anybody has any questions I would be happy to answer them.
Old 07-21-03, 12:42 AM
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where to get the templates? who do i need to PM?

jaared
Old 07-21-03, 03:36 AM
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pm attomica for the templates. He charges $5 for the life sized templates and a cd with pictures of tools and a guideline (not specific directions). Pretty self explanatory though.
Old 07-21-03, 05:05 AM
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man i really need to redo mine, mine is a peice of ****
Old 07-21-03, 05:20 AM
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Now that is hot. I'm going to have to get those templates myself.
Old 07-21-03, 05:25 AM
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yeah now u see the trial and eroor..if i had to design another fiberglasss hood i could do it in a week instead of two months

Last edited by Dltreezan; 07-21-03 at 05:30 AM.
Old 07-21-03, 05:35 AM
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I hope you're OK with constructive critisism...

Air always follows the path of least resistanse, so to stop air from being sucked from the hot engine bay, you need to to give the air a path from outside the engine bay that's easier to follow. That means the edges of your box need to seal around all its edges as close as possible to the body. Yours has large gaps all around that will let hot air in with very little resistance.

Using the stock snorkel will not work, as it must be connected to a sealed box. It's far too small to provide an easier path for the air, and there's no positive pressure to push air through it. At the moment most of the air entering the filter will still be from the engine bay.

You're on the right track, but you need to make that box a lot tighter fitting and get a decent sized (3" or more) duct from outside up to the filter.

Sorry for the downer.
Old 07-21-03, 11:59 AM
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One thing ive never got is why do yall out lids on the boxes??? why dont yall just seal it to the top of the engine??
Old 07-21-03, 12:04 PM
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Thanks. I actually appreciate constructive critism. All the gaps you are talking about are being sealed off with rubber vacuum hose. I have completed the lid last nite and will be providing more pictures when I get home. As soon as I get the lid attached to the rest of the box it will be a very snug fit. I still need to go to home depot and tape the corners with heat resistent aluminum tape to ensure a tight seal in all those other crevices.

About the outside ducting: What do you suggest?

I was thinking cutting a hole under the floor of my cold air box and through the fire wall and putting some dryer hose as a duct.

Not sure how I would go about cutting that hole and also do not want to cut into the body. Any other alternatives?
Old 07-21-03, 05:16 PM
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well correct me if im wrong but you wont be cutting through your firewall. the firewall is located in the rear of your car between the engine and the dash. but anyways for that idea your saying there is a post on here somewhere im sure someone will post a link. but im gonna do it when i get some free time
Old 07-21-03, 07:29 PM
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yea you know what I meant. I dont really want to do any permanent damage to the body so what are my alternatives for a ram air effect? Thought about the fresh air headlight cover but I cant justify putting down $150 IIRC for that.
Old 07-21-03, 08:16 PM
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you can take the black plastic out from your heaalights and wink them(put em half way up. I think you can buy kits to wink your headlights from the inside or you can take the fuse out for the headlight motors and leave them winked. other than that i dont see any way of getting air to your filter wihout cutting a hole.
Old 07-21-03, 08:19 PM
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I think sleepy eyes look kinda funny and drunk. Thanks for the suggestion. Any one else?
Old 07-21-03, 11:27 PM
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Perhaps it's just me, but it seems as if that's a whole lot of work for not much of a gain...if any. All you've done is rebuilt the stock box but made it so a cone filter fits in it. Why not just do a drop in filter? Your best bet would be to take that stock hole that all the wiring to the headlights goes and also the place that greddy routes the FMIC pipes and run your intake in that area. It'd be a much more direct and cooler intake charge. Just my opinion.
Old 07-22-03, 12:24 AM
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Originally posted by cbrock
...it seems as if that's a whole lot of work for not much of a gain...if any. All you've done is rebuilt the stock box but made it so a cone filter fits in it.
Not true. The stock airbox's inlet and outlet are very restrictive due to their size and shape. A pod filer completely seperated from the engine bay and fed with a big duct from outside the engine bay will give considerable improvement.
Why not just do a drop in filter?
Because it's not the filter that's restrictive, it's the box. You will not notice any difference from just replacing the filter.
Your best bet would be to take that stock hole that all the wiring to the headlights goes...
That's what I was going to suggest. You have to cut some steel because there's nowhere you can run a big enough duct. Another option is to cut a hole under the pod, but that requires relocation of the washer bottle.
Old 07-22-03, 12:34 AM
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Read the rx-7 Preformance handbook says right in there the stock air intake and exhaust was made for Reducing noise and to reduce emmisions. says in there and rx-7 intake and exhaust is very restrictivecompared to most cars because it takes more to pass emmisions. opening up your intake and exhaust provide a very noticable gain in power. i know for myself i gutted my cats and put a car back exhaust and a intake on and man what a difference. i had cars and worked on cars before and spent alot of money with little result and spent $125 on my rx-7(intake and exhaust USED) and felt a difference in power ive never felt in any modifications ive done before


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