pr0digy

rotfl, i was there... so THAT'S what he was covered in lmao, i told him i didn't wanna know. i vaguely remember you being there looking at that car as well... small world. are you the guy who bought it?

petex

wow, so this is THE HIGH COMPRESSION TURBO SETUP everybody was talking about?

you seem to worry more about paint than motor/tanny. It's primary track car, right?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

POR-15 can be brushed or sprayed. I chose to brush because I do not have the proper safety equipment to spray. You absolutely need a respirator and a good ventilation system due to the chemicals (check the MSDS from the website). It's evil stuff to inhale. Also spraying makes a HUGE mess and unless you have a spray booth and are PERFECT in your masking it's going to cause real problems. Besides, if you spray you have to thin the paint and they recommend that you thin as little as possible to retain the full strength.

I used several long handled bristle brushes in a 1.5" and 3" width. I found them perfect for getting the paint into anywhere I needed it. It's very difficult to get adequate coverage in all the little cracks and hidden areas with a spray gun. You don't really need to be neat, because POR-15 drys smooth no matter how you apply it. And the more paint on the bottom of the car, the better.

Wear a paper cover-all, for the love of god.

Media blasting, in my opinion anyway, is a major pain in the butt. The media goes everywhere. You'll still be finding it in the car 5 years from now. Not to mention that the media creates environmental and disposal problems when you're finished.

My plan several years in the future (when all my current projects are done) is to acid dip the body of the car. Acid dipping is not very expensive and it's great stuff at removing rust, old filler, etc. Unlike media it doesn't remain in the car as they go through several wash cycles and it can get many places that media cannot. The downside of course is that the car must be disassembled first.

Not the original turbo NA, but very close to it. I was the first to document the process, and I don't think it would be a stretch to say that I started the whole trend...

The first time I read this, it really caught me off guard. I ran through several replies in my head, ultimately each one would have ended up breaking about 4 forum rules...So I thought to myself "OK, maybe he has not read the rest of my threads?". I'm going to assume that you have not read any of my other threads, and just skimmed through the pictures in this one. I suggest that you take a look at the others (link in the first paragraph of this thread) to see an idea of the scope of this project...But just because, I'll clarify a few things.

First, this car is a semi-daily driver that sees a lot of track duty. I regularly (almost every week) drag the car, and attend autox whenever I can. Once the car is complete and tuned, I plan to road race it as well.

The engine is a 6 port block that I built last summer. The primary intake ports were ported to the same size as Racing Beat's turbo template. The secondary ports were ported to Mazdatrix's 6 port template, with a small bridge added. Exhausts are RB turbo's "street" exhaust templates. New Atkins 2MM apex seals, new FD corner seals and springs, and new side and oil seals were used. The rotors received new bearings, and the eccentric oil jets received the "Weber air jet" mod. The stationary gears were modified and 3 window Mazda competition bearings pressed in. I also shimmed the oil pressure regulator for about 90-100 PSI of oil.

As you can see from this thread, the engine is controlled with the Microtech LTS-8, with a Crane CDI box on the leading coil. Fuel system is all Aeromotive (pump, reg, etc.) with 720 CC primaries and 1600 secondaries. The stock turbo as pictured is only used for engine break in. When the break in is complete, it will be upgraded. Originally I had planned on the GT35 but right now it doesn't look like it's going to be suitable (too small a hotside) so I'll be having something built by a local shop. Manifold will be hand fabricated by yours truly, as have many other parts on the car.

The tranny was recently rebuilt, and a local driveline shop just built me my 2nd "unbreakable" driveshaft (my previous unbreakable shaft lasted 2 years before it's Dodge truck U-joints were shattered and the pinion flange literally twisted several degrees). I'll be soon installing that shaft and at the same time likely fabricating a driveshaft hoop. Clutch is a 6 puck copper-ceramic and the flywheel is stock.

...And I could go on. Suffice it to say that the car is far more then just paint, and every detail of what I have done involves serious thought. As for the paint itself, it was born out of the fact that I was sick and tired of working on dirty and greasy engine bay parts, and that there's no reason components cannot both function well and look good. I also want this car as evil as possible, hence the blood red and black.

I think you'll find my next thread very interesting if you think that this car is about shiny paint...if you're still reading.

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Jesus ****, that's some serious TLC

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

so when is thing goin to run??? man you been working on this far to long. im probably more anxious than you aaron!@!!!!!LOL

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

Dont rush a perfectionist.

petex

Aaron, what rotors are you using? what CR?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The entire block, except for the porting and oil mods is S4 NA. So 9.4:1.