most likely it wont. you getting out of controle with the red paint mang. lay off the paint

 

doing the underbody may seem stupid to you after the fact, but you will not regret it! I did it to another car, and only used primer and flat black paint... 4 years and counting and still no chipping or anything. Most people wont notice the fact that you took the time to clean it up and paint it, but those who do will complement you to no end This is a wonderful project man, great documentation.

 

You are one **** bastard! I commend you on your attention to detail...

 

I want to hire you to do my battery relocation, seriously ontario isn't that far away....

I did the same underbody treatment on the belly of my TII, but only from the flimsly tub rails out. POR-15 is truly amazing stuff. I found that it went alot further than i thought. I did 3 coats with 1 pint. I also used their chassis coat black.

After getting a few drops on my arms i coverd myself with tyvec for the remainder of the project.

 

Amazing. I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

It does look good now, but in the long run I'm far more concerned with how it will hold up against corrosion. I have serious faith in POR-15, so I doubt I have anything to worry about. While I'm happy with the results, the only thing that would get me to go through it again would be the ability to put the body on a rotisserie. Working underneath it was just about the worst job I have ever done.

Will you be at Revolution in the spring?

LOL. I was TOTALLY COVERED. It seeped through my cloths, into my hair, etc. I took 45 minutes before I could even run a comb through my hair, let alone actually make it lie flat. I considered finish coating the POR-15, but since the underside won't really see any sun, I'm not too worried about it.

 

Anything done to the transmission? I just find it odd that you're using it. Any plans for it when it snaps?

Nice project btw, its pretty like a princess.

 

Isn't the OEM battery tray plastic, as well as the mounts for the tie down? I can understand your concern as a battery can be a damn deadly projectile - but don't you think a quality tray and standard tie-down installed properly is sufficient? I had a red top in my pass rear bin with a pretty standard tray/tie-down from JEGS. That sucker wasn't going anywhere!

Props on the POR application...while not rust buckets like the FB's or datsun Z series, our FC's are aging and many of them I've seen recently have had some wheel well/floor rust developing. Get some snow tires for Tina now!

 

NA trannies will take around 300 lb ft of torque before they are at the limit. Treat them well and they survive...that means launching and power shifting are to be avoided as driveline shock is the real killer.

 

dang.............. this is amazing every time you give us all an up date im just amazed. maybe if i had a constant job and a extra car i could start somthing like thus. but that wont be till im a old man lol. good job on all of this. and i thought the 5 speed swap was hard yikes!

 

Thank you very, very much for taking the time to make this thread.

Was definitely worth the read, your projects are always quite interesting to follow.

 

what did you use to connecct the AN fitting to the stock oil drain on the turbo?

 

DEAR... LORD...

I'm lucky to change my coolant without blinding myself, much less something like this.

 

I see your turbo oil drain runs down to the oil pan. What about your oil inlet and coolant in/drain?

 

i wanted to use the water going to the heater core but im almost positive someone said that it shuts of/closes when not in use? is this true? if so ill just use the one going to the tb.

 

WOW thats just amazes me in how much your doing and how much detail you pay attention to. reminds me of how my project is going, very very slowly. But at least it will get done RIGHT

 

Very clean setup aaron, i'm curious why you havent opted for a TII drivetrain and why you havent used a TII intake manifold and front cover, just curious.

 

The transmission is stock, but I did have it rebuilt due to issues caused by lack of oil. In the past I have had very good luck with the NA transmission. It is not nearly as weak as most people think it is. Mine has survived years of Friday nights at the dragstrip, both turbo and NA. In fact, I just recently had to send my custom unbreakable (3.5" thick wall tube, Dodge truck U-joints) driveshaft to be repaired because I had previously shattered the front and rear U-joint, as well as bent the rear flange.

On the next phase of this project, when I'm done with 13Bs, I will be upgrading to the TII transmission.

The stock battery tray is plastic/fiberglass, but it's also mounted at the front of the engine bay. I'm not just worried about the street, but I track the car all the time. In a rollover situation, an insecure battery is a very bad thing. Remember that in a collision, a 50 pound battery is subjected to massive G forces. If we assume a 30 MPH crash generates 50 Gs ( http://www.vcu.edu/cppweb/tstc/kinetic.html ), our 50 LB battery now weighs 2500 LBs. This is fine if the battery is mounted outside the passanger compartment. But would you want to be hit in the back with a 2500 LB object at high velocity?

It's not that I'm paranoid about being in an accident, it's just that there's no reason not to be safe.

As if the car will ever see show again!

The stock S4 turbo has such little clearance between the turbine inlet flange and the oil outlet flange that I had to use a stock drain tube. I simply cut the front cover side off, then brazed on a 1/2" NPT copper pipe fitting. A 1/2" NPT to -10AN 90 degree fitting was then screwed into that.

When I upgrade the turbo, I already have the proper T4 oil drain flange with -10AN flare.

The oil inlet comes from the 90 degree fitting on the oil cooler. -6 braided stainless and the appropriate AN fittings are used. I actually found that a T3 oil drain flange (um, made by Russel I think) fits the S4 turbo oil inlet flange perfectly. It is sealed with an o-ring and provides a -10AN flare.

The coolant comes from the nipple at the rear iron and the water pump housing. Currently, sections of braided stainless are hose-clamped in place and modified stock fittings are used on the turbo. Once I upgrade the turbo, I'll get the water fittings sorted out properly.

That's true. There is a valve in the heater core that shuts it off. Just use the fittings for the TB since the hose is exactly the correct size anyway.

No need. Also I want to keep as many NA parts on the engine as possible. The only thing on the block that is TII is the turbo and manifold.

 

what i condiser to be a proper battery tiedown.


carboard box.
Lots of bunjee cables.

 

roflmao^^^^^

 

The sad thing is that I have actually seen this on several FCs.

 

I agree. I had a few stuck bolts and a nut stuck on an exhaust stud I had to deal with when I replaced my exhuast and I was under the car most of the day. I was sore for days.

 

hehe snow remark was a joke Do you have a dedicated track wheel setup planned?

 

No, I don't have any "track" wheels. I don't have the talent to outdrive the Firehawks I have installed right now, so moving to a better (read: more expensive) tire wouldn't do any good.

I will be replacing the shocks, springs and bushings though. The original suspension is starting to get tired, and I would like to drop the car about an inch.

 

ok aaron i'm ready for a bushing replacement (particularly rear of car bushings) write-up