pics - now THAT'S a clean engine bay!!
09-08-01, 09:32 PM
#1
knowledge junkie
Thread Starter
pics - now THAT'S a clean engine bay!!
Wonder how much time it would take to get my TII engine bay this clean 
Now if I could just seal the plastic permanently so it will look 1/2 this shiney all the time.
BTW - why does this site keep downsizing my pics? These are suppose to be 1024x768 - not 800x600. I'm linking to photopoint.
Now if I could just seal the plastic permanently so it will look 1/2 this shiney all the time.
BTW - why does this site keep downsizing my pics? These are suppose to be 1024x768 - not 800x600. I'm linking to photopoint.
Last edited by vaughnc; 09-08-01 at 09:34 PM.
09-09-01, 01:35 AM
#7
knowledge junkie
Thread Starter
Just talkin bout that with rarestrx. Here ya' go:
Yo Vaughnc!
Hmm, well I really like the McQuiers car cleaner wax, it works wonders on light colors like white and red. (Both my cars). I also use the Zymol, which is the expensive German stuff made out of coconuts and crap, that you have to refridgerate after opening!! The Zymol kicks butt for shine, and depth of color, but doesn't have the chemical scrub-a-mability of the McQuiers. So I tend to double up and do 'em both. The only thing you have to remember is the paint quality in the engine bay is crap, you can't really scrub the hell out of it since it's so thin. I've actually hit areas and seen the white undercoating coming through! So be real careful when doing it. I've never messed with clearcoating, but when I worked at <ommitted>, all the black cars with clearcoat would get these nasty white scratches just by /looking/ at them, so I'm not a big fan of clearcoating.
Hope that helps!
<ommited>
PS: Lemme know if you have any other Q's!
Yo Vaughnc!
Hmm, well I really like the McQuiers car cleaner wax, it works wonders on light colors like white and red. (Both my cars). I also use the Zymol, which is the expensive German stuff made out of coconuts and crap, that you have to refridgerate after opening!! The Zymol kicks butt for shine, and depth of color, but doesn't have the chemical scrub-a-mability of the McQuiers. So I tend to double up and do 'em both. The only thing you have to remember is the paint quality in the engine bay is crap, you can't really scrub the hell out of it since it's so thin. I've actually hit areas and seen the white undercoating coming through! So be real careful when doing it. I've never messed with clearcoating, but when I worked at <ommitted>, all the black cars with clearcoat would get these nasty white scratches just by /looking/ at them, so I'm not a big fan of clearcoating.
Hope that helps!
<ommited>
PS: Lemme know if you have any other Q's!
Last edited by vaughnc; 09-09-01 at 01:41 AM.
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09-09-01, 09:18 AM
#9
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I've heard that you should not use silicone tire spray under the hood because it will damage the O2 sensor. I'm not sure exactly what it does to the O2 sensor, but the guys on Shadetree Mechanic mentioned it on one of their shows.
I actually found some engine detailer spray at the auto parts store that leaves a nice shiny coating on everything. It dries non-sticky and when things get dusty again it cleans right up with a blast of water.
I actually found some engine detailer spray at the auto parts store that leaves a nice shiny coating on everything. It dries non-sticky and when things get dusty again it cleans right up with a blast of water.
09-09-01, 10:07 PM
#10
Rotary Freak
Okay, heres the trick to permanent wet plastic shine....
NOVUS PLASTIC POLISH
it works in 3 stages.
1 for deep scratches
2 for haze <----start here
3 Continuous cleaning.
This is hard work guys, but my plastic looks like the picture above ALL THE TIME, DRY.
So does my vinyl in the car. (Dash, seats, everything!!!)
So shiny, (get this)
I clean my dash and interior with a painters TACK CLOTH!
I use NO liquids except about once a year
(and then its only NU-VYNIL -the best for vinyl!!!)
Be careful not to polish things that are supposed to be matte finishes (like the instrument surround plastic) to reflection!
Clean the engine compartment until you can eat off the plastic.
Use the #2 polish vigorously (FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY)
Then clean with the #3 cleaner/polish-spray.
Continue to clean with #3 every 90 days.
You could see yourself in the plastic if you worked hard enough!!!
So there you have it.........................
it works in 3 stages.
1 for deep scratches
2 for haze <----start here
3 Continuous cleaning.
This is hard work guys, but my plastic looks like the picture above ALL THE TIME, DRY.
So does my vinyl in the car. (Dash, seats, everything!!!)
So shiny, (get this)
I clean my dash and interior with a painters TACK CLOTH!
I use NO liquids except about once a year
(and then its only NU-VYNIL -the best for vinyl!!!)
Be careful not to polish things that are supposed to be matte finishes (like the instrument surround plastic) to reflection!
Clean the engine compartment until you can eat off the plastic.
Use the #2 polish vigorously (FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY)
Then clean with the #3 cleaner/polish-spray.
Continue to clean with #3 every 90 days.
You could see yourself in the plastic if you worked hard enough!!!
So there you have it.........................
Last edited by Sniper_X; 09-09-01 at 10:11 PM.
09-10-01, 09:48 AM
#12
Rotary Freak
source for NOVUS plastic polish.....
go here to get the Novus system....
Get a FEW sets of these bottles.
Youll want to use them on EVERYTHING PLASTIC!
(be careful with the course #2 polish on that vinyl!!!!)
Novus No. 1 Plastic Clean & Shine 8 oz.
Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover 8 oz.
Novus No. 3 Heavy Scratch Remover 8 oz.
Get a FEW sets of these bottles.
Youll want to use them on EVERYTHING PLASTIC!
(be careful with the course #2 polish on that vinyl!!!!)
Novus No. 1 Plastic Clean & Shine 8 oz.
Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover 8 oz.
Novus No. 3 Heavy Scratch Remover 8 oz.
Last edited by Sniper_X; 09-10-01 at 09:56 AM.
09-10-01, 12:22 PM
#14
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Outstanding! I love to detail my engine too! When I pop my hood I want people to go...WOW thats clean! Ok I don't love to do the work, but I love the results! ha ha.... Keep em clean guys!
09-10-01, 03:59 PM
#15
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you guys should really keep the lid on the battery box, if you still have it. Mazda put the box there for a reason, to keep heat out, just like a cold air box, if you look at the lower front part of the box there is a hose running from there to the front grill area, it's about 2.5 inches around so a drain it aint. seems like everyone has either removed the lid or lost it, so maybe it has no effect, but it makes it look alot nicer anyways.
09-10-01, 04:43 PM
#16
knowledge junkie
Thread Starter
hmmm..
Wonder if this would do better than trim detailer in the rain (ie smearing) on the plastic window molding.
Current stuff for "exterior" modling doesn't run in the rain as bad, but it still requires hard rubbing to get it off once smeared.
Wonder if this would do better than trim detailer in the rain (ie smearing) on the plastic window molding.
Current stuff for "exterior" modling doesn't run in the rain as bad, but it still requires hard rubbing to get it off once smeared.
09-10-01, 06:25 PM
#17
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When I get my strut tower bar put on, i'll post a separate link to my engine bay...that is the one thing EVERYBODY loves on my car...I have the cleanest import engine bay in my town..AND i live on a dirt road..so HA...and trust me, its not easy!
09-10-01, 08:43 PM
#18
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Originally posted by Samps
you guys should really keep the lid on the battery box, if you still have it. Mazda put the box there for a reason, to keep heat out, just like a cold air box, if you look at the lower front part of the box there is a hose running from there to the front grill area, it's about 2.5 inches around so a drain it aint. seems like everyone has either removed the lid or lost it, so maybe it has no effect, but it makes it look alot nicer anyways.
you guys should really keep the lid on the battery box, if you still have it. Mazda put the box there for a reason, to keep heat out, just like a cold air box, if you look at the lower front part of the box there is a hose running from there to the front grill area, it's about 2.5 inches around so a drain it aint. seems like everyone has either removed the lid or lost it, so maybe it has no effect, but it makes it look alot nicer anyways.
09-25-01, 10:40 PM
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I can find numerous products for the plastic parts, I want to know what to make the aluminum(i think) parts of the engine looking new again. Anyone know any prducts? Thanks.
09-25-01, 11:09 PM
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I use Castrol Superclean to clean off the crap, then let it dry. Then use some Armor All or similar protectant of choice and spray a very fine mist all over the engine bay. It looks good for a week or so, and is great for shows etc.
