I am tryin to find out exactly where the 5th & 6th ports are so I can hook my air pump to actuate them. Any pics would help alot. Good descriptions are helpful too. Thanks.

 

buy a manual at like autozone, its really helpful. they will call them the auxilary ports. its only like 15-20 bucks...

 

Try this site... very good detailed instructions and pics

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6porttest.htm

 

Also try here: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/garage/1308

it should go through eventually, after u get through the garbage, click on "6 port" I highly recomend reading this page to anyone who wonders about their 6 ports.


~Jesse

 

download the shop manual from www.iluvmyrx7.com

I think theyre on page 61 or 62. you need adobe acrobat to view it

 

Those links helped alot guys. Thanks. Have any more sites with pics of exactly where you run the hose to? I know you run the hise from the air pump but from the one pic it looks like to the exhaust or maybe that I am looking at it wrong.

 

yeah i need another picture too, or a good explination would be good, i want to gut this damn cat, but i wont have the backpressure i need without it so hhhuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrrryyy guys! THANKS :1party:

 

Am I the only one that knows how to use the search option?

 

The search option is ok, but doesn't answer your exact question. I just need to see a very good pic of exactly where you run the tube to. Thanks.

 

i know one of you has a picture or good description! i saw a picture a few monthes back but the post is long gone by now

 

^^...still waitin...

 

Ok.. This is for the 86-88, and I assume the 89-91's are the same or simmilar.

Pop your hood.. Look on the passenger side of the engine, down at the bottom.. You see that bigass rectangular rusty thing? That's the exhaust manifold. Right above it are the actuators (either side.. looks like a little mushroom).. Right below the actuator FURTHEST BACK, there will be a little metal tube sticking out. On it, will be a hose running to the split air pipe.. The split air pipe goes from the ACV to the cats.. This is where the pressure comes from.

So, plug the split air pipe end. The metal pipe coming from the rear actuator is where you want your pressure going into.

You can take a long hose, hook it to that tube, and blow.. You should be able to move the actuators just by blowing.

-Tesla

 

Alright, so do you need to drill any holes in the ports? Thanks. Descriptions are getting much better.

 

I'm gonna rate this post as five stars. Its got a lot of leads and pictures and will be in the archieves.

 

Alright so I looked at the "mushrooms." Is each one a different pot? I only saw 3 but didn't look to close at all. Just tryin to get an idea of what I am lookin for. If each one is a port which are the ones I need to run air to? & where exactly do I put the hose to? Thanks alot.

 

What year car do you have?

On teh 86-88's, you put the hose onto the metal tube sticking out right below the rear actuator.. And..uh..there are only two.. One at each end. That thing in the middle is something else.

-Tesla

 

Theres only 2 actually, the middle bigger one you see is the ACV(air control valve)

 

Alright so run the tube from the air pump to the metal tube coming fromt he rear one? I need a ball vavle right, between that? How do you test the psi coming out of the air pump hose? Thanks alot.

 

Try this link http://homepage.mac.com/jburger/jaysrx7/6PortSolution/ No, do not drill in the actuators. There are two *pots* with little push rods and linkage on top of them. They are canted, one to the rear and one to the front. They are fed forced air from your exaust by a 3/16 pipe. If you'll look, just to the left and under the rear *pot*, is a pipe, about 3/16 inch in dia and one and a half inches long. If your car were stock you would find a vac line going from there to a nipple on a metal pipe. That metal pipe goes to the catalytic converter. On a normal car the pressure in the exaust goes from the cat to the nipple that feeds the aux actuators. What all these folk in the above sites do , is feed pressure from the air pump to that nipple just under and aft of the rear *pot*. That pot is an actuator. The one fwd is also an actuator. That pipe feeds both. Get a long piece of vac hose and connect it to the nipple under the rear actuator. Now blow real hard in the vac hose. Your actuator linkage should retract into the actuator bodies. If they don't, push with your fingers on the linkage and see if they will retract with finger pressure. If no t write back. All you need is a 3/16 plastic barb from Pep Boys. A three foot long piece of vac hose that will connect to it. A drill bit just a touch smaller than the 3/16 plastic pipe with the barb. Now locate the about one inch diameter hose at the rear of the air pump. In the middle of that hose drill the under 3/16 hole. Shove the barbed pipe in the hole. Connect the hose to the barbed pipe. Connect the other end to the 3/16 pipe just under the rear aux actuator. On the left side of the engine, remove the BLUE connector from its solenoid. Start the car. Stand on the right side of the engine and rev the car. The actuators should retract as the engine reaches 3800rpm. Did this work for you? P.S. the air pump is a weak sister. It puts out maybe 6psi. It WILL NOT blow the 3/16 barb pipe out of the hose.

 

I don't mean to counter anyone here, but... the hose after the airpump isnt really a good place to get pressure. Heres why: As rpms increase, the air pump spins faster, so more pressure, right? Well, yeah, so far, but theres more to it than that. That hose goes into the acv(air control valve), which basically sends air to different places, depending on the situation. At 4500 rpm(i think thats about right, correct me if im wrong) the acv vents extra pressure out the vent hose, which is the one coming off the acv towards the passenger side, then 90's and goes into the front fender. Once it starts venting, the pressure in that hose you are tapping into goes to nearly zero, so as you may have guessed, your actuators snap shut. I had this method of 6 port actuation on my car, and found that this is indeed the case. Also, your actuators dont need 6 psi to open; whatever the air pump puts out, its definetly too much, and i wouldnt risk "popping" my actuators with too much pressure. Also, even when my actuators were working correctly, at no point could blowing air with my lungs cause them to move more than a fraction of an inch. I don't mean to argue here, but I have tried some of these methods before. If I'm not mistaken, that page i posted above should explain what im trying to say, it's where I learned a lot of what I know concerning 6 ports...


~Jesse

 

Ah! I see you missed the part about removing the connector from the switching solenoid (the BLUE connector). If you do that the relief diaphram in the acv vents all the time therefore lowering the pressure seen at the hose b/t the air pump and the acv. Go to your car and take the relief hose off the acv with the engine idling. There should be just a hint of air pump air. Now pull the BLUE connector off the relief solenoid. Instant air out of the acv exaust. I have an extra set of actuators and manifold that I have put in the passenger seat and run a vac line to a tee at the aux actuator pipe. With the blue connector off and driving down the hwy(not really required, the driving), the actuators in the right seat start pulling in around 3800 (no magic about this figure, just happens on my car) and is full open at 5000rpm. Cost. Two bucks. I know if you tap in the line behind the air pump and DO NOT pull the BLUE connector, the actuators will open right away as soon as the engine starts. In real life I use a similar method but have a spare solenoid off a wreck between the airpump hose and the nipple at the aux actuators. One wire to ground, the other tapped into the BLUE connector. The swithching solenoid opens at 3800rpm(see factory manual). That trips my solenoid from the spare car and feeds the aux actuators. The advantage to this method is keeping my acv working in a stock fashion. There are about twenty five different methods of making the actuators work or more. Some day I'll get that garden hose tee out and make it work that way. Until then I'll make do. Thanks for trying to help me SKIBUM. But my car works like this do to the above writing. Oh by the way, on my car you can blow in the hose and make them retract. Same on the wife's car and on that piece of junk that is sitting in the corner over there. Remember, the key to my method is PULLING THE BLUE PLUG OFF AND CAUSING THE RELIEF VALVE IN THE ACV TO RELIEVE. Causes low pressure in the line after the airpump that does not build up sufficiently until around the 3800/4000 figure, when there is enough to spring the actuators open. Lotta ways to make the things work. That last method with the spare solenoid is just a take off of the 89 and on cars, on the whole, not exactly. By the way, the wife's car is stock and works just fine that way.

 

Wish I knew exactly what you guys were talkin bout, lol. I got the idea now but need to actually go look at my car with the intent of doin this. Is there a list of things I need to buy? That would be a good start. So this will work to actuate my ports though, right? Thanks alot.

 

Ah, now I see it my bad... Just wanted to clarify. Nice work Hailers


~Jesse

 

My posts about the ports that i had about a month ago.

Search for my username and theyll be there.

I took lots of pictures.