read the side of an oem mazda filter

 

Likewise. Which is why Im interested in what IC he is using. Ive taken all the measurements for clearance and such and Im gonna start fabbing the bracketing for the IC and rad. I might end up having a 'ku' style setup instead of that beautiful H-mount.

Great work, BLUE TII.

BTW, this IC/RAD set up is for a Cosmo 13B-RE.

 

DAMN!!! That engine is clean as HELL!!!

YOU'RE MY BOY BLUE!!!...

TII

 

I'd be interested in many of your products when you make them in due time...especially BLUE TII'S v-mount set up with the FD UIM to s5 LIM. Plus a TII and n/a CAI since I have both a TII and GTU. That'd be teh sex. Oh and that harness

 

Holy ****! I replied to the wrong thread! Sorry about that... but I do love that v-mount set up!

 

Whoa my first time seeing it. Very nice indeed. I think you should paint it black. It'll look good on those Volks.

 

daym thats nice. do you have a link for your mods/setup?......DAYM...

 

This thread is old as dirt. Dont expect any responses from BlueTII.

-Andrew

 

why not? he is still around the forums.

 

Yeah, I'm around.

Update on my car isn't good news. Some Private Security company kid (rent a cop) T-boned me. I will find out tomorrow what my car the insurance company thinks my car is worth and the amount of damage.

I had just broken in my latest engine, self built, porting, tons of oil mods. I got one weekend of kick *** Auto-X action in at least! The car did great, even beating some regulars in my class despite the fact I am on my street tires and they had slicks.

I no longer believe the saying that Auto-X is 90% driver since that was my 1st event in the car and 2nd Auto-X...

Since it is wrecked I will probably put all the running gear in a non-sunroof body or go with a mild (less aggressive looking) widebody on the current chassis. The widebody would be more practical since it is traction limited.

Though this engine does have a LOT less power than my last rebuild. Only differences are 3mm RA apex seals and the turbo doesn't have a clip on the "P" trim exhaust. Took a long time to break in (high premix ratio), but now it hotstarts/coldstarts/pulls vaccuum well. Gotta comp test it to rule out poor sealing.

It feels quite choked before the 60mm wastegate cracks open so I think the backpressure of the more restrictive un clipped exhaust wheel is causing more exhaust dillution with the high overlap porting. Going to get the turbo clipped again as soon as insurance is settled.

I might get a list of mods up since I made one for the appraiser.

Back to the oil filters- I have since used several brands and cut them open to check quality.

I like the NAPA premium quality a lot- though it is small.

I also like the Bosch filters Kragen now carries almost as much- a little bigger than NAPA.

Fram looked safe to use, though materials are definitely cheaper- I like their big 1st gen filter.

 

well from what icemark said the 3mm seals caused lower power than the 2mm seals. He found this out by building 3 engines with 3mm apex seals and dynoing them. Then he pulled one apart and put in 2mm apex seals and actually gained 20hp! And these where on moderaltey modded engines so I'm sure the numbers go up with heavier modded engines.

 

Yep, more losses from friction and poor sealing are possible when doing 3mm seals. I have read of 40RWHP losses in the 400RWHP range with just 3mm seals added.

My Pineapple had 3mm Hurly? seals and it made some good power. I would expect a 10-40RWHP loss from 3mm seals, but this feels like more. I really don't mind the power loss if it means it will take more abuse, but I really think most of it is the turbo.

Last build was getting sideways from wheelspin in 4th gear, this one barely does it in 2nd.

It does build boost a bit faster now without the clip and with the 3mm seals than it did with the clip and the 2mm seals, but doesn't have power untill the wastegate cracks open.

So I set the wastegate spring soft to crack open at 8psi and set the MBC to regulate boost to 15psi and what do ya know power from 8psi up and faster boost response than when WG opened at 15 psi. I believe the excess backpressure is choking the motor due to the high overlap porting I have and when the WG cracks open it relieves the backpressure and VE jumps up.

Further proof of this is I noticed my boost dropped to 10psi during Auto-X. Turns out my wastegate line was loose (NPT fitting)- that would normally cause MORE BOOST.

I later disconnected the WG line and ran the car with the WG stuck shut ie- NO WASTEGATE. Instead of insane boost creep, it choked and wouldn't even make full boost- Hmmm.

Funny thing, last engine/turbo build (the one that ripped) I swapped to 2.5" RB downpipe while I was working on my other exhaust and ran with NO WASTEGATE on the car. Again, it choked and wouldn't build full boost.

That is how sensitive a turbo set-up can be; 3.5" exhaust and can't stop the boost creep even with 60mm wastegate, 2.5" exhaust and cant make more than 10psi without a wastegate.

I will fix the turbo back the way it was when it ripped and then fix the apex seals when the RA seals eat these beater rotor housings down- just got NRS 3mm 1 piece premium ceramic seals. Good sealing from tight clearances possible with premium ceramics low thermal expansion, low friction, light weight, strong and can handle very high egts.

 

so with the fd uim (mated to a s5 lim im guessing), you just portmatched the manifolds and notched the bolt holes?

 

So if the previous picture were ****, can we get some new pictures post-wreck and consider them beastiality?

 

what turbo are you running? Still a bnr hybrid or have you gone anothe route now? I've felt those ceramics before and man are they light! I'm guessing with them lighter like that the spring will be stiff enough to help keep that thicker apex seal pushed against the housing. Are you going to use brand new housings with the ceramics? Should be a fun reliable engine with the combo of the ceramics and new housings. Anyways man you sound like me, not going to stop until it's perfect, lol.

 

There is absolutely NO WAY to just port match the fd uim and the fc lim without using some aluminum filler rod to add material to the manifolds in one of two ways. Anyone else tells you different did not fully port match them, I don't care what they say or hear.

1. Fill in the outside gap between the primary runners on the fd uim and use the fc gasket.
2. Fill the inside of the primary runner on the outer edge of the fc lim to shift the runner over towards the fd ports and use the fd gasket.
3. Use an adapter plate.

I believe Blue TII did the first method iirc.

The first method would have been easier but I opted for the latter since there seemed to be less ovaling of the runners where the manifolds meet.

I used an adapter plate before and did not like the angle in the plate to get the primaries to line up. However, the taller the adapter plate, the less of an angle. The adapter is certainly the easiest method but definately suffers in flow characteristics as compared to truly portmatching them. I did dyno before and after (adapter plate vs. true port matching) and there were significant gains with all else being equal.

The secondary ports are easily matched as is since they are pretty close to begin with.

btw, my fc lower and fd upper are for sale as is the rest of my 2-rotor setup. Yeah it's a shameless plug....

 

so with the fd uim (mated to a s5 lim im guessing), you just portmatched the manifolds and notched the bolt holes?

As RXHeaven said.

what turbo are you running?

Still the '89 based BNR stage 4 w/ 60mm external wastegate. Latest thing I did was port out the manifold and turbo runners up to the WG passages for more flow (less velocity) to help combat the boost creep. That worked great- actually helped boost response too. Then I tried the unclipped "P" trim exhaust wheel and that didn't work.





Those pics are from this thread on my last engine build that ripped, now it is same, but 3mm RA seals and unclipped exhaust wheel.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=pics

 

wow I never saw that thread before and just got done reading the hole thing, very very cool! I have to tear my engine down and get the side housing lapped and may do some of the mods you have done just because i like the idea that you keep reliability in mind with just about everything you do. Congrats on the damn fine job!

 

Total hotness! Blue FCs are the king of the automotive world!