2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Personal Painting Job

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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:45 AM
  #1  
w0ppe's Avatar
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CC of L-Squared Shots
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From: Columbus, Ohio
OH Personal Painting Job

I was doing a little painting on my vehicle in to help prevent rust in certain parts of the vehicle. As I was doing this, friend told me about his idea of painting his car come warmer weather. It got me thinking about painting my RX-7. Now, we already have an air compressor, air gun, paint gun, and quite a bit of garage space. We're going to seal the entire garage off and make it clean. Are there any tips for doing a nice job or any special tools that might be needed? I thought about doing the process of Aircraft Remover and sand, Primer, 1st coat, 2nd coat, clear coat.

Curiosity: It's going to be Crystal White instead of Blaze Red
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 12:50 AM
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alexdimen's Avatar
TANSTAFL
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From: Richmond, Va.
strip off all the parts you can. the bumpers are easier if off the car. don't use coarse grit at all because it's hard to get the swirls filled/sanded out.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 01:03 AM
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From: New York
Make sure you overlap 50% or you will get a tigerstrip look. Um...Also dont get to close, if your doing single stage, its easy, you dont even have to paint the entire car at one time if you dont wanna, as long as the paint comes outta the same can... two stage, your base doesnt have to look shiny, just spray it on light and all dont run it....
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 05:44 AM
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w0ppe's Avatar
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CC of L-Squared Shots
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Ahh thanks! Knowing FCs and their unusual problems, I was hoping painting wouldn't be too difficult...
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 02:47 PM
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Multiple light coats, naturally. Any slight imperfections in the primer while show through, so get the primed surface good before you go any further. I'd sand the primer, then add more primer if necessary. I think 220 grit is good for this. For the base coat I don't think you sand at all. It better be smooth already! For the clearcoat make sure it's thick enough to handle it and then you sand with 1000-2000 (higher or not at all, if possible), followed by a buff. Paint should be "perfect" before the buff, the buff is just for shine. If you don't have the buffing equipment and experience then you may want to pay for the buff. It is easy to burn the paint or take forever to do it, otherwise.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #6  
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From: Canada
ive painted quite a few cars and here are some tips... if your gonna seal the garage off you need to have both positive and negative ventilation with industrial spark free fans...an alternative to this is spray your shop down with a fine mist of water before you start painting this will suck all the dust ot of the air...ok with the paint ... prime block sand ...prime blocksand..prime with a differnt colour..block sand...
after your certian its it stime to shoot some colour.. thin light coats.. i spray 2-3 coats then wet sand with 2000+..shoot a couple more coats wetsand again...after that spay 2-6 coat of clear wetsand..then buff.. if you take your time it will look amazing..wetsanding the colour is what gives paint that "wet" look it can be left out but the result will not be as good..and der god wear a resperator
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