Hi guys,

I have a 1987 Turbo II w/ Microtech, streetport, no BAC, no AC, no P/S, no microtech usb cord.

The car started up fine before and idle'd at 1500 rpm everytime.

I adjusted the throttle stop screw on the TB and now it starts and dies within a few seconds.

I followed
FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp TPS adjustment for 1986-1988 RX-7 Turbo II models
guide and adjusted my TPS too 1k ohms but stilll dies at start.

I know this is a TPS issue cause the car was running fine before. (idle-ing before at 1500rpm)

1. My question is, does adjusting the TPS with a DMM the right way?
and
2. Would my previous 1500 rpm would be at a different ohm than the 1k ohms specified in fc3pros writeup?

Im lost, woudlnt mind some help from fellow rotorites

 

Yes, a multimeter is the right way to set TPS.

I don't use MT, I'm assuming no USB cable means you cannot modify the tune yourself? An idle that high with your basic mods is a little unreasonable, I find it hard to believe the car was fully tuned like that. Once you adjusted the throttle you very well could need to compensate in your tune. Have you checked for vacuum/boost leaks with a reliable method (unless the car is on a VE based tune, then that shouldn't matter)? I would almost suggest kicking the throttle open again until the car stays running, then start troubleshooting.

 

the microtech has a TPS correction, without knowing where it is set then the traditional factory setting method likely won't do much. you can either do it through trial and error or find a way to plug into the microtech to get a reading.

if you lowered the idle then the microtech is reading below 0% throttle, so you would have to keep raising the TPS setting until it gets over 0. if your 1000/2000 RPM map is shitty then going below 0% will mainly use that page for corrections instead of the idle map. i don't even run a TPS with my microtech because it rarely works within the proper parameters anyways.

next time get a ohm reading from the TPS before messing with the idle screw, then set the TPS to that same ohm reading afterward. of course it's too late for that now, especially since you dicked with the TPS. at least before you could have raised the idle screw til it ran fine then gotten the TPS reading.

 

Yes, I did have the USB cord but lost it long ago, I tried many different cables around the area and couldn't find one too work.

their are no vacuum leaks and the fuel system is clean (line psi at 40psi) with new fuel filter

I did try lowering the idle cause EVEN I thought the 1500 was a little to high for street driving.

I will try raising it up then, probably by 0.1 k ohms at a time.

Lyger , did you just delete the tps all together then?

and would the car idle with the tps disconnected?

 

i deleted mine altogether, there is no TPS even on my car. but i however did adjust my idle and 1k maps evenly so that startup to warm the car would idle evenly throughout the transition.

without your TPS it will for the most part ignore the idle map.

 

1500 rpm is not an idle. its a vacuum leak.

 

Gonna get a USB to get some readings off.

I've check today for any vacuum leaks, didn't find any yet, but will keep looking.

 

So far everything is vacuum'ed
here's some picks.

she starts up every time but then dies like their is a fuel cut after a few seconds

fuel line pressure is at 40psi w/ recently reconditioned RC Injectors, new fuel filter, recently new walbro.

the car would still idle even with a vacuum leak right? just would idle high





Vacuum'ed points





TPS @ 1.0 k Ohms<br/>light blue vacuum underneath the idle adjust screw





vacuum'ed





vacuum'ed





vacuum'ed

 

ah! you still have thermowax but you arent setting the tps warm? you must move the thermowax cam out of the way so that the throttle fully settles. also take the throttle stop screw mostly out and make sure the throttle isn't hung up open.

 

i see a thermowax, it is disabled though. whether properly or not i can't tell.