I got a set of energy suspension bushings recently. The whole front and rear came out simple and smooth. Had a bit of a battle getting the old bushings out but not too bad. But we are now having tremendous trouble getting the new bushings into the control arms. My question is: is there an inner metal lip that you need to remove to get the bushing to go in properly? We thought they might have sent me the bushings because they don't seem to fit properly. We are using a 14 ton press btw.

 

front or rear control arms?

the rear control arms have outer metal sleeves you need to take out.

 

Ohh I'm aboot to do the same thing thanks for the tip

 

i could imagine it would be VERY difficult to install them on the rears with the metal sleeve still in place.

 

I was thinking about doing this to mine... How much did the whole set cost? did it include the dtts deletes? and also on a scale from 1 to 10, How difficult is it to replace all of them?

 

no DTSS deletes in the hyperflex kit.

on a scale of 1/10 it is about an 8 and takes about 2 full days to do.

 

Yeah I was talking about the rear control arms. We got the inner sleeve out once we realized it was there haha. Bushings went in just fine. I got this set:

Energy Suspension 11.18101 HyperFlex Master Kit Mazda RX7 86-91

 

i have the same set waiting for install

 

Better idea

Bearing Kit - Rear Control Arm - 1986-1992 RX-7 - AWR Racing Store

 

+1... poly is a very bad idea on bushings that pivot on more than 1 axis.

 

Why? Are Delrin bushings just as bad?

 

Yes they are.

 

throughout the range of the rear suspension the outer bushing actually twists, it has to for the suspension to gain camber...

If you have a poly and especially a delrin bushing back there it won't allow it to twist and the suspension will bind.

the only thing I would run is rubber or a spherical bearing

both AWR and MMR make spherical bearings.

 

For future searchers:

If the rear control arm looks like it has a flange on each end, you did not press the whole bushing out. And changing the bushings out is a major pain to do in your own garage. Especially because you have to drop the rear subframe to do the rear control arms.

 

I have the set. I started on the front. Is there any way to get them off without a press?

 

We used a 14 ton press. Can't imagine doing them without it. But for anyone who's curious, I used pretty much the whole set and my ride feels fantastic. Only downside I've noticed is turtles suck more. That's it.

 

you can get them out without a press but some are going to be a real pain. I have heard of some people using a good size bolt and tightening it until the bushing gets pushed out by the force. If possible I would get a press, bushings from the 80's tend to not come out. I had a lot easier time with the front bushings then the rear, I did not need to drop my subframe completely out of the car to get the rear control arm out. I just took out the 21mm nut that holds the subframe next to the control arms and pulled it down to pull the bolt that holds the control arm to the subframe.
This is also a good time to put in extended studs on your hubs since the whole suspension will be apart, Be warned though the rear wheel bearings will need to be replaced, this will also cost a couple hundred more to do.

 

i use an air chisel and cut the metal ring on the rears in half with a sawzaw. then it's hammer time. i only have replaced with rubber. never poly or derlin.. i've road in car with poly and they're race only imho.

 

my entire car is poly bushings and to be honest it transfers bumps a little harder then it used to and it is a little stiffer, but to be honest in terms of comfort it changed almost nothing at least I have not noticed it after 6 months of driving on it. Noise has not really changed either no real squeaks or chatter out of the suspension. Maybe I am biased because what I took out was 27 year old bushings.

 

i prefer to just replace the front, the rear control arm bushings don't readily fail anyways and the difficulty in replacing the 2 rear control bushings versus the whole front is even more time consuming than redoing the whole front of the car.

slightly more flex in the rear is better anyways for additional grip, if you stiffen it up too much then the result isn't spectacular.

 

there are two different size bushings for the s4 and s5

 

I have pressed them out in the past with a BIG vice.

But if you don't have one of those, just drill all the way around the inner sleeve then pound it out with a hammer. Or preferably an air hammer., Yes, it's time consuming. Yes, it's annoying. But it does work.

 

or dremel them off with a cutoff wheel. cut off the outer layer of rubber until you get to the steel sleeve and cut a crosswise slit through it until it releases compression.