On fc3spro.com, the maintenace sections told that the "acid test" to make sure a rotary has no internal oil seal failures is to, when warm, hold rpm at 4000 for 15 seconds, and if it begins smoking, there is something wrong. So, after I got home from school last week, I had my dad watch the tailpipes and I held it at 4k for 15 seconds (she was warm) and there was no observable result like descriibed on fc3spro. There was a little odor, neither my dad or I could identify, but no smoke. Well, on a DQ run, I decided to try to go to 8000 rpm with no traffic around, and felt smooth, though in Ann Arbor, one does not exceed the speed limit in the city areas (we have an...effective police force). So, just went to 8k in 1st. Again, she was warmed up before leaving (especially because I just got over the hump of my flu today and needed a warm cabin to avoid dying).
Sorry for rambling. Anyway, when we got home, I wanted to see if she produced any negative efects when revved to 8k, so I again had dad observe the tailpipes. Apparently, when I let of after the tach reaced about 7500, alot of smoke came out of the tailpipes, a significant amount. Couldn't really tell what kind since it was dark, but dad said it smelled like gas, leading me to think that the ecu's not metering fuel correctly. Please advise.

 

Also, does anyone know how to disable the cold start system? Ther's a bronzeish colored solenoid on the throttle lever, will unplugging that get rid of the problem? I ask because I don't like how it smokes when the damn system revs her to 3k immediately after startup. why the hell would Mazda implement such a damaging system?
Same reason tire pressure monitors are becoming standard, the water gauge on every car is a dummy piece, and onstar is used for other things than emergency dispatch and theft recovery:

The majority of car buyers are idiots. (no-one on this forum or thier friends or family. The spinning triangles insulate you!)

 

I'd make the guess that the smoke upon throttle close at 7k is the massive amount of fuel being puked out by the injectors. 7's were programmed to run almost satanically rich at full throttle.

So true it's not funny. I can't wait till I have to swap a manual transmission myself into a brand new car. It'll be awesome. Or move to a less lazy country. Like Australia.

For the AWS, you can start the car in gear with the clutch disengaged and it'll idle at 2k like it should, however you'll need to keep it in gear for a few seconds till she calms down.

 

Idle at 2k? Isn't it supposed to idle at 750, or do you mean the typical high speed most engines run at for the first few seconds?
Also, the excessive richness (btw, good sarcasm Hank), I've heard the a/f can be leaned out a little bit for more power, but won't that increase the risk of detonation? Or is it just rich for the couple of morons who are car-illiterarte who bought the RX7, and as long as I keep her on 93 octane (I love Michigan!) and don't bounce off the rev limiter she'll be okay.
And can any ol' shop lean her out, as long as a careful eye is kept on the mechanics? (think the parking garage attendants from ferris beuler)

 

get a wideband o2 sensor and digital gauge if you plan to start tuning the air/fuel ratio. This will allow you to see more range of ratio and will help you avoid detonation due to over leaning the motor. Still have to know what you are doing.

 

Yes, the standard high idle you'd get when starting an engine cold.

It can, that's the route I'm going when I get around to buying an RTEK. When I said rich, I mean really, really rich. I busted my cats earlier last year and could almost recycle the vapor and get about a gallon back every trip I take.

You hadn't mentioned whether this was a Turbo or not, so I'm kinda winging it here. An N/A will just about never need 93, the detonation resistance is lost on it. For a turbo it's kind of an insurance thing, just in case something happens, the damage won't be as bad as if you were running 87. At any rate, someone you can trust with tuning should be responsible for leaning it out.

 

Well, I'm assuming premium is best as dad said when he was driving the thing up from Tecate Mexico (just south of San Diego) he got the best mileage on premium. So is midgrade better, even when going at WOT to redline?
And she is NA. About that, I plan on getting a part time job over the summer so I can pay for a turbo engine, the 13BT or the 13B RE (what I'm considering) does anyone know what the rev limiter is on those engines? Can they rev to 8k stock?

 

Lol theres no way you can afford a 13B-RE swap...thats a cosmo engine btw...it was the stock motor where the 20B was the option. Even so working part-time you'll have to save a long time to buy a 13BT.

Theres skeptics on here about higher octane, a lot of people will tell you theres no real advantage and infact makes your NA run like ****. Infact putting 87 is fine, the car will run completely fine. The only reason I'd see to use premium is if your running a fair amount over stock horsepower with advanced timing. Or a modified turbo car...like majority of turbo cars on the road are designed to run on 91 minimum (I know first hand, I worked at sunoco). Even so the majority of those cars run fine on 87 and 89. If anything, you'll find a small power-loss if dyno tested usually its not enough to notice when driving.

 

Don't run more than 87 in a relatively stock n/a. Using higher octane (slower burning) fuels will result in more carbon build up, just because its labeled "PREMIUM" does not mean its premium for your n/a. even stock TII's where OK to run on it, it says so in the owner's manual (i has one ^_^!!) once you get into modifying the car for more horsepower the insurance is needed on these motors.

 

1900 for a S5 front clip from flashoptions.com (+ Driveshaft if the photos don't lie)