2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

oxygen sensor

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Old May 16, 2002 | 03:56 AM
  #26  
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"o2 sensor is a 17 dollar discount auto parts piece? could this be the problem"
that is probly the problem discount auto parts sells cheap junk
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Old May 16, 2002 | 10:34 AM
  #28  
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Question about the shielding, i bought a 02 sensor from rx7.com which came with a different connector than my car has (S5 n/a) they told me it was OK to splice the connector onto the O2 sensor and just connect it into the plug in the engine bay. If its shielded, then such a splice would be bad? correct? (Its been like that for a year, and no engine light has come on.)
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Old May 16, 2002 | 05:27 PM
  #30  
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SUNSHINE....Don't worry about the lack of the shielded wire. The shield is not completly from end to end. It ends about six to eight inches from the ECU and ends prior to the termination of the end that is at the 02 sensor. As long as you don't(and you didn't) accidently do your splice or crimp where the shield touches the center conductor, there's no problem. My 87 N/A has about three feet not shielded and I get normal milage when driving on long trips (26 on hwy on 900 mile trips) and no 02 codes.
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Old May 17, 2002 | 12:14 AM
  #32  
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I also have my a/f meter hooked up to the wire comming off the o2 sensor and it seems to work fine.....how can you tell if its running a closed loop?
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Old May 17, 2002 | 01:21 AM
  #33  
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Originally posted by BlackRx7
I also have my a/f meter hooked up to the wire comming off the o2 sensor and it seems to work fine.....how can you tell if its running a closed loop?
You cannt "tell" actually from any reading or measurement. The only indication is that the ECU will force the rich mixture, so the O2 will immediately "see" rich. Normally the ECU would then try to compensate, but that wont happen if you are at WOT. It will stay rich (i.e 80% of your A/F scale will light up)
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Old May 25, 2002 | 01:14 AM
  #36  
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I don't have a meter like you all, but I occasionally monitor my o2 with a digital meter. At idle the reading is a minus voltage since the air pump is pumping fresh air directly into the exaust ports.. When driving, and you let off the gas, the voltage drops into the minus anytime you let off the throttle just a tad. Thats normal since the ECU is cutting the mixture the moment you let off the throttle. Heavy on the throttle I get approx .8 volts. If I'm cruising in fifth at say sixty or seventy, the volt meter will be constantly jumping on either side of approx .4volts. It does this rapidly, say .2 to .5 to .1 to .7 to .3 to .5 etc. Thats just an example. In other words if crusing, the lights should be jumping around stoic or approx .4. There is a better explanation on the Autometer.com site under the faq there on that site. If my emissions is not working as designed, and the relief and switching solenoids are not working, I will read .6 or .7 at idle. Thats due to no airpump air being injected into the exaust ports. Seeing that figure at idle alerts me that something is amiss with my emissions system.
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Old May 25, 2002 | 12:59 PM
  #38  
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If you do not have an air pump, the 02 should read in the .6 to .7 range. I'd find someone with a DIGITAL volt meter and set it on the lowest dc voltage scale and put the neg lead on a good ground and the positive lead on the connector wire where the 02 sensor meets the car harness. Start the car. After some warming up it should read .6 plus at idle with no air pump. Acv is irrelevant in your case. OR. Send me the o2 sensor and gauge and I'll put it on my car and see what happens. You pay the postage both ways.
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Old May 25, 2002 | 02:50 PM
  #40  
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YES! A cheap twenty dollar one is just fine. Only poblem with those is the leads are a touch short, but you can work around that. The acv is fed by the airpump. No air pump, the acv is mostly useless. It has diaphrams that open and shut and shuttle air from the air pump to the exaust ports and the split air pipe that runs to the catalytic converter. Also shoots fresh air into the intake under rapid deceleration to prevent backfire etc. So without the airpump its opening and shutting poppet valves internal to it, but theres no air to shuttle around. You really should send the whole unit to me. Trust me. I've been out of Huntsville Unit for several years now and am fully rehabilitated. It was a minor crime of mail fraud. Trust me. Lets see if I'm really rehabilitated. Yeah the cheaper digital meters don't have long leads. Ask the fellow at the Radio Shack how he thinks you can work around this. Maybe alligator clips and a spool of 18 gauge wire to supplement the length. And if you can't connect with the Huntsville Unit.......think barbwire fences, electric chairs, bars on cells etc. But trust me, send me the unit and I'll take care of it.
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Old May 25, 2002 | 06:26 PM
  #42  
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I plead ignorance. I've never disconnected the 02 from the ECU and observed the 02 sensor reading. It certainly won't be hunting on both sides of stoic since the ECU will be in open loop*see Autometer.com for how 02 sensors and meters work*. Should definitly read approx .6 to .7 at idle and .7 to .8 at full throttle. Wellllll it might not help you if you send the meter and senor to me, but it will help JOE'S PAWN SHOP's inventory. Mazda never made a RX7 that ran that lean. Just ain't possible . I still think the meter*digital* is the way to go to find out if the sensor or the gauge is bad.
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Old May 27, 2002 | 03:48 AM
  #45  
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Dont know what you mean by "cheap", but you should set it to the lowest "DC" setting it has, touch the black connector to a good ground on your car or the chassis itself, and the red connector to the signal wire from the O2 sensor. You should see the voltages described above dancing in the LCD screen....
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Old May 28, 2002 | 01:31 AM
  #47  
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Originally posted by chris-reed
cheap, like 20 bucks, it doesn't say dc on it anywhere, just a lot of little symbols. and i did connect it to the signal wire with it disconected from the ecu. and i got .03, this is on the same setting that showed my batt was at 14.0????????????????
If you cross the two connectors (touch them with each other), what voltage does the meter show you ? If its 0.03 then your O2 does not send any signal during that time...

The meter seems to be working, so you should try and check the O2 more extensively...I would suggest connecting the meter to the ECU, and going for a -slow- ride on a back road. Try to see what voltages does the O2 sensor throws at you while cruising at various levels of throttle....

If the ECU hasnt thrown any error codes for the O2, I would suggest that the sensor is working fine, but rather you cannt get a good fix on the signal...
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Old May 28, 2002 | 08:13 AM
  #48  
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
The symbols might be something like a straight line and under that straight line a dotted line. That should be DC volts. The symbol that is just a wavy line should be AC volts.
_________
--------- is DC volts

~ is AC volts


ohms is the upside down horseshoe

That meter should be more than good enough for what you do on this car.
I'm assuming that the above symbols are the ones you refer to. Can't figure what other symbols would be used. I'm your basic knuckle dragger.

Last edited by HAILERS; May 28, 2002 at 08:20 AM.
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