overall airpump question
#1
I am the Anti-Ch(rice)t
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overall airpump question
ok this is for me and for everyone else who wants to know this.
what is needed to take off the airpump in a series 4 and series 5. i know they are different. what do you have to do to take the airpump off and what does it actually do. when enough posts get on here to answer most questions wil somebody please fivestar it for future reference.
Justin
what is needed to take off the airpump in a series 4 and series 5. i know they are different. what do you have to do to take the airpump off and what does it actually do. when enough posts get on here to answer most questions wil somebody please fivestar it for future reference.
Justin
#2
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Well I can only speak for a series 5, but here goes.
Start by removing the belt. There is a 14mm or 12mm bolt under the airpump that bolts the airpump to a bracket that allows the airpump to swivel. Loosen this bolt, and slide the airpump towards the drivers side to make slack in the airpump belt. Then remove the belt by slipping it around the fan blades. Its kind of a pain, if you are lazy you can just cut the belt off. The top airpump mount is held on by 3 12mm bolts. Remove these bolts and the two hoses going into the airpump(or the breather filter if you have a cone style intake). Pull the airpump out. Block off the line going to the black intake elbow. I just stuck a cork in the intake elbow outlet and duct-taped it. Its worked for over a year now. Now you need to either remove the ACV or block off the hole that the airpump hose went to. Removing the ACV is as simple as removing 3 10mm bolts. But you will need to block it off. You can get a block off plate from mazdatrix or racing beat, or you can fabricate your own. I think that's pretty much it. Shouldn't be any different on a Series 4 engine as far as I know.
Start by removing the belt. There is a 14mm or 12mm bolt under the airpump that bolts the airpump to a bracket that allows the airpump to swivel. Loosen this bolt, and slide the airpump towards the drivers side to make slack in the airpump belt. Then remove the belt by slipping it around the fan blades. Its kind of a pain, if you are lazy you can just cut the belt off. The top airpump mount is held on by 3 12mm bolts. Remove these bolts and the two hoses going into the airpump(or the breather filter if you have a cone style intake). Pull the airpump out. Block off the line going to the black intake elbow. I just stuck a cork in the intake elbow outlet and duct-taped it. Its worked for over a year now. Now you need to either remove the ACV or block off the hole that the airpump hose went to. Removing the ACV is as simple as removing 3 10mm bolts. But you will need to block it off. You can get a block off plate from mazdatrix or racing beat, or you can fabricate your own. I think that's pretty much it. Shouldn't be any different on a Series 4 engine as far as I know.
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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In series 5 cars, removing the air pump disables the 5th and 6th ports, as well as the VDI. So be sure you know what you're getting into before you do this.
Also, once you remove the air pump you NEED to remove the cat as well. Otherwise, it will clog in a very short time and cause quite a few problems.
I will archive this topic eventually. I'm going to go through this whole forum and do a bunch of archiving as soon as I get around to it.
Also, once you remove the air pump you NEED to remove the cat as well. Otherwise, it will clog in a very short time and cause quite a few problems.
I will archive this topic eventually. I'm going to go through this whole forum and do a bunch of archiving as soon as I get around to it.
#5
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No backpressure in the exhaust opens the 6-ports on series 4 engines. The airpump is only used for supplying cold-air to the CAT for emissions purposes.
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#8
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Originally posted by SpeedRacer
No backpressure in the exhaust opens the 6-ports on series 4 engines. The airpump is only used for supplying cold-air to the CAT for emissions purposes.
No backpressure in the exhaust opens the 6-ports on series 4 engines. The airpump is only used for supplying cold-air to the CAT for emissions purposes.
and it won't clog your cats on a series 4 because it doesn't have anything to do with it. I don't think it will clog the S5 either, by removing it. cats clog for other reasons, too rich, bad fuel all the time, too uch oil burning. too old. the air that is pumped into the cat is only for lower emisions readings. it is a way to cheat the sniffer.
#9
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Originally posted by tweaked
you got it backwards. it is the backpressure that opens the secondaries on the series 4.
you got it backwards. it is the backpressure that opens the secondaries on the series 4.
and it won't clog your cats on a series 4 because it doesn't have anything to do with it. I don't think it will clog the S5 either, by removing it. cats clog for other reasons, too rich, bad fuel all the time, too uch oil burning. too old. the air that is pumped into the cat is only for lower emisions readings. it is a way to cheat the sniffer.
#10
I would like to hear more opinions on this subject.
I have a high flow cat on a series 4 engine. If at all possible I would like to remove the airpump but not if it clogs the cat.
One person is saying it is ok and one person is saying it isn't ok ....
I have a high flow cat on a series 4 engine. If at all possible I would like to remove the airpump but not if it clogs the cat.
One person is saying it is ok and one person is saying it isn't ok ....
#12
Super Newbie
If you pull the airpump, keep the ACV on if you still have the cats. They will still get enough fresh air to keep from overheating. If you pull the ACV and leave your cats, they will start glowing in no time.
#13
Super Newbie
Originally posted by tweaked
you got it backwards. it is the backpressure that opens the secondaries on the series 4.
and it won't clog your cats on a series 4 because it doesn't have anything to do with it. I don't think it will clog the S5 either, by removing it. cats clog for other reasons, too rich, bad fuel all the time, too uch oil burning. too old. the air that is pumped into the cat is only for lower emisions readings. it is a way to cheat the sniffer.
you got it backwards. it is the backpressure that opens the secondaries on the series 4.
and it won't clog your cats on a series 4 because it doesn't have anything to do with it. I don't think it will clog the S5 either, by removing it. cats clog for other reasons, too rich, bad fuel all the time, too uch oil burning. too old. the air that is pumped into the cat is only for lower emisions readings. it is a way to cheat the sniffer.
#14
Originally posted by Felix Wankel
If you pull the airpump, keep the ACV on if you still have the cats. They will still get enough fresh air to keep from overheating. If you pull the ACV and leave your cats, they will start glowing in no time.
If you pull the airpump, keep the ACV on if you still have the cats. They will still get enough fresh air to keep from overheating. If you pull the ACV and leave your cats, they will start glowing in no time.
#17
I have an 87TII. I blocked off my ACV because it had vacuum leaks. Now idles, but still have some leaks.
I made a pipe to remove the intercooler so I could see where the leaks were. The straw from the brake cleaner I was using fell off the nozzle, i bent down to pick it up and noticed the first cat glowing red, just after the cat pipe, not the whole cat.
I have put about 150 miles on the car since I blocked off the ACV. Is my cat screwed?
I think the diaphragms in the ACV were good, but when I sucked on the vacuum line that points stright up it did not hold vacuum. After I removed the ACV I noticed it looked like someone had drilled a hole in the side of the the housing this vacuum port leads to (maybe someone drilled to lean it out because the previous motor was bad?). If I put my finger over this hole it does hold vacuum. Must have been a Mazda certified tech working on this one. Could I just run the air pump direct to the air supply pipe that goes to the cat?
If the cat is not screwed, I may silicone this hole and put it back to stock. The car was sold to me with a bad motor and I put a J spec motor in it. Has a hot start problem and still chasing vacuum leaks. Runs strong. idles like ****, sometimes eratic, usually around 1500rpm. Maybe I bought a junk motor. Has an even 85psi bounce on each rotor. Need to have a Mazda tester done to prove the motors bad.
The car has 76M on it and is mint. Want it to run like it should. Very fun to drive, even though it's a pain in the ***.
I made a pipe to remove the intercooler so I could see where the leaks were. The straw from the brake cleaner I was using fell off the nozzle, i bent down to pick it up and noticed the first cat glowing red, just after the cat pipe, not the whole cat.
I have put about 150 miles on the car since I blocked off the ACV. Is my cat screwed?
I think the diaphragms in the ACV were good, but when I sucked on the vacuum line that points stright up it did not hold vacuum. After I removed the ACV I noticed it looked like someone had drilled a hole in the side of the the housing this vacuum port leads to (maybe someone drilled to lean it out because the previous motor was bad?). If I put my finger over this hole it does hold vacuum. Must have been a Mazda certified tech working on this one. Could I just run the air pump direct to the air supply pipe that goes to the cat?
If the cat is not screwed, I may silicone this hole and put it back to stock. The car was sold to me with a bad motor and I put a J spec motor in it. Has a hot start problem and still chasing vacuum leaks. Runs strong. idles like ****, sometimes eratic, usually around 1500rpm. Maybe I bought a junk motor. Has an even 85psi bounce on each rotor. Need to have a Mazda tester done to prove the motors bad.
The car has 76M on it and is mint. Want it to run like it should. Very fun to drive, even though it's a pain in the ***.
#18
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Originally posted by Felix Wankel
I think he meant "No, backpressure"... not ''No backpressure''
I think he meant "No, backpressure"... not ''No backpressure''
The ACV is located right between the aux-port actuators. It is held on by 3 10mm bolts.
#19
Anybody see my post? Did I hurt my cat. Still have to seal ACV and re-install. Wondering if I should gut the first cat. Would like to keep it all stock, if it will run this way.
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