cramms

Would you be a person that knows where everything goes if so you should come by and check it out.

DaBrkddy

Yes, I can help you with that.

cramms

SO here is a video, i figured it might be more clear that pictures, (this is my first video and I sound like a tard, so please keep the lol's to a minimum)

slitherz90gxl

I think that the line with the air filter on it is one of the lines that would have went to the crank case ventilation valve... thing. (I'm not for sure what it is called, but its a black plastic piece that three lines ran to)..
I'm thinking that rubber hose that you had also went to the part I'm talking about.
Either that or it could run to the open nozzle on your UIM?
As far as your idle goes...
Is it flooded when it dies on you?
Also, I know that when people go and remove a lot of factory parts off of the engine they tend to do funny things.
I don't understand why so many people remove components that were put there for a reason.
Somebody might be able to tell you for certain about those two lines, but that is my noob .02 cents.

Edit: That first vac line you show near the throttle body probably was one of the coolant lines for the BAC valve which is gone.

HAILERS2

Too bad that bmp out of the FSM is wrong on the A-C reading.

Or put another way: A-C is shown to read the same value whether at idle or full throttle. Something is amiss here. Right? Right.

There's easier ways to set a non turbo TPS imho. The ECU is looing for 1vdc (see Control Unit pages) on the input from the green/red wire of the TPS connector (the half of the TPS plug attached to the EM harness. So if one just backprobes the green/red wire in that plug with everything connected up, he should read 1vdc with a fully warmed up engine. IF not......then turn the TPS screw til you read one volt dc. Done. Now go do something else to the car.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

sounds like you have a VAC leak.

stuwk1

Definatly a vac leak, and i believe u have the same problem i had where the idle was like bucking slowly, it ended up being my throttle plates. the top were slightly open and the bottom was closed, check to make sure they are all closed at no throttle.

DaBrkddy

Wow. Once again hailers saves the day on that one. Who knew mazda was wrong about their own stuff? Or maybe I have a faulty copy of the FSM

But regardless, I don't think this whole thing is a TPS problem anyway... It's idling at 1500 because the thermowax isn't hooked up. The dieing wouldn't necessarily be caused by a bad TPS either. The only problems I've ever had with my TPS were a corroded connection. Fixing that cured any TPS problems.

Cramms, when I go out to where you're at on saturday, hopefully we can fix some of the stupid unfinished "mods" that the P.O. did. (Like hook up the thermowax, use proper vacuum caps instead of tubing and screws, and get things like the TPS adjustment, idle mixture, idle speed, and maybe even the timing corrected.) Then after that we'll look into any backfiring or dieing issues you have. She might backfire anyway though if all the emissions devices were removed.

satch

iTrader: (1)

What is the Variable Resistor set at now? More rich or more lean? The second hose you held up (driver side) goes to a round metal shaped device located on top of the engine "exactly behind the oil pedestal," which is used to fill the engine with oil. Look at the video at the three minute mark and you will see what I am taking about and it hooks up to the side closest to the fire wall. The idle speed will be high w/o the Fast Idle Cam/Thermowax unit working as in a normal condition as the car warms up the Thermowax piston will extend downwards towards the Fast Idle Cam and presses downward on the linkage just below it which closes the primary throttle plate which assists in the lowering of the idle speed. Find this linkage behind the throttle body and again just below the Thermowax and there you will find a screw that is upside down and press down on the screw with the car idling and the idle speed should drop. At the back of the throttle body but closer to the driver's side there is a screw which is not accessible w/the throttle body on the car and it "might" help to lower the idle if adjusted but again I "might" be wrong on this.

EDIT: The disconnected tube on the passenger side that you talk about where does it connect to on the end which is connected? Is it connected to the the yellowish plastic piece towards the back and top of the throttle body closest to the passenger side or somewhere else.

cramms

its set at slightly more lean

satch

iTrader: (1)

What about the disconnected tube that I mentioned above (the "edit" entry)? There are two nozzles on the plastic thermovalve and the one closest to the fire wall goes to the Double Throttle Diaphragm. If the disconnected hose is plugged to this nipple closest to the fire wall and the other end is not plugged then that would cause a vacuum leak when the car is cold but not warm so the hose at the disconnected end needs to be plugged. If it isn't plugged then take a screw of proper size and screw it into the open end of the hose until the screw head seats to to the tube and plugs it. This hose, if open, could possibly cause the car to die if the engine is cold when driving and coming to a stop, but once the car is fully warmed up it should not have an affect on the car dying.