canonize-ryda

wow i see that coolant line thats not hooked up, if thats so then you may have no bac, and i have all those vac lines hooked up. to get to some of them u will need to pull the upper intake mani since i think one goes to the top of the block. the 2 in the last pic look like your port lines. if the engine is stock then u may wanna look over some vac line diagrams and such and get those connected properly.

slitherz90gxl

You have a s4 so the ground you are referring is probably underneath the Throttle body and UIM.
On s5's (I think all of them) it is on the throttle body on a little copper piece.
That is if you are talking about the ?ECU ground? I think that is the ground that I'm talking about at least......

cramms

Awesome I will mess with this tomorrow, hopefully that should fix my idling I don't exactly need it to idol perfectly I just need it to stay running and not hesitate.

DaBrkddy

Hey I live east of KC. PM me and maybe I can come help you work on it.

cramms

So I was able to get the car to idle at 1500 rpm for more than 20 min, unfortunately my friends messed with the wideband adjustment screw, with out a gauge is there any way to check to make sure its set properly, I think I am close with the tps, unfortunately my multimeter was set to volts not ohms

cramms

OK now im starting to get frustrated

I got the tps to read 1000 ohms(car was running for 45min) and I got the car to idol at 1200 rpm
I took it for a drive around the block car feels awesome, as soon as I come home home to park the car and let it idol, the car starts low revving and then dies.

So I check the TPS again now I cant get a tps reading while the KEY is in the on position, only when the key is in the off position or no key in the ignition.

Also I just remembered that my friend messed with this THROTTLE STOP SCREW(picture below circled in blue) I tried to re adjust it but I was told your never supposed to mess with it, so how do I set it back to factory, and any Ideas on what might be wrong?

slitherz90gxl

Sounds like you might have a bad TPS or maybe the wiring is bad.
I've never heard of that screw you were referring to.
I assume its something like the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body of a s5?

DaBrkddy

Here's a scan from the FSM about the throttle position sensor

cramms

im starting to lean towards bad tps or something because no matter how well idling I get it, it still dies after driving

What is this

satch

iTrader: (1)

The screw in Blue is for adjustment of the secondary plates and the screw is turned fully tight with no threads showing which is how it is set from the factory.

The reading of the Green/Red wire of the TPS is read using the voltage reading w/key to on. The ohm reading is for when the TPS is unplugged and thus the key position would not affect the reading since the plug to the TPS would be disconnected. When taking an ohm reading the key should not be used as damage might occur if you have voltage running through the wire being tested. In other words with the TPS plug would need to be disconnected.

Have you tried to affect the idle speed with either the Idle Adjust Screw on top of the Dynamic Chamber or the Variable Resistor? To adjust the resistor the Initial Set Coupler needs to be jumpered and the engine needs to be fully warmed and the normal setting is more than halfway between the lean and rich setting favoring the rich side of things.

cramms

The screw in Blue is for adjustment of the secondary plates and the screw is turned fully tight with no threads showing which is how it is set from the factory.

Ok so no threads showing above the nut or below the nut?
(When I was trying to find the best adjustment with it earlier i had no threads showing, and the engine idle was bouncing, |could be due to tps not being correct for the adjustment screws position|

also I was adjusting the idle with the adjustment *** on the top of the throttle bottle, I have not messed with the black box with the lean and rich settings.

Carzy Driver

Look into getting a BAC since your's is removed.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The metal line would go to the the Charcoal canister. The rubber hose side runs to a connection on top of the engine exactly behind the oil pedestal.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If it's screwed in all the way there would only be threads below what it is screwed in to and not above.

Make sure the resistor is set properly and not too lean. Slit in screw past the half way mark. Again, needs to be done with the coupler jumpered and engine fully warm.

Make sure the TPS reads 1 volt on the G/R wire.

Does the car have power steering?

cramms

what I mean is does the top of the screw go to the top of the nut or do i keep screwing it down all the way till the nut isn't holding anything.

I will check the position of the lean and rich adjuster tomorrow and take pictures

I will check the tps again tomorrow

No power steering.

cramms

could you post a picture of where the rubber line goes I have 2 places capped off there

satch

iTrader: (1)

Imagine a screw being tightened all the way into a nut. If so there would be no threads showing above the nut but only below the nut. Just screw it in all the way and don't worry about threads for if it were screwed in all the way then the thread bit would be irrelevant.

It appears you don't have the connection in your pic. Exactly behind the oil pedestal there is a contraption it would connect to.

cramms

Alright I understand the screw thing, but doing that is going to cause the engine to lope, so I guess I need to figure how to counter act that.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then the cause is due to something else as that screw is connected to the secondary plates and not the primary plate and the primary plate is what basically controls the idle speed and not the secondary plates as the inner secondary plates only open after the primary plate opens by about 20% and after and the outer secondary plates are open to begin with. The primary plate would only be open by a fraction at idle and thus less than 20% of the way.

cramms

so how would i fix this?

Going to attempt to find a new tps and see if this eliminates some of the issue

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you try setting the TPS to 1 volt? You could actually disconnect the plug to the TPS and drive the car or run it while idling w/o the plug connected and see if it makes a difference. The bouncy idle also might be attributed to a vacuum leak and not the TPS. Also, the timing of the car is advanced when the idle speed is above a certain threshold close to 1100 to 1200 rpm or so which can make fine tuning certain aspects of the car troubling. Make sure the Variable resistor is set properly or see if you can adjust it in addition to the Idle Adjust Screw to bring the idle lower than what the aforementioned threshold and then set the TPS to 1 volt which is the spec setting.

cramms

I used my multimeter set to 2k volts tps came out to 1000

satch

iTrader: (1)

This does not make any sense. The meter is to be set to DCV. 2k volts would be 2,000 volts. You must be getting volts and ohms mixed up! You never read ohms with voltage on the wire as stated earlier.

EDIT: Take the bloody multimeter set to DCV and take a reading off of the battery and see what you get as it should read about 12 volts or so. If so, then you know you have the meter set properly to read voltage dc.

DaBrkddy

Oh man Cramms... That whole intake manifold needs to be gone over by someone who knows what goes where. It seems someone who didn't know what they were doing just removed a bunch of stuff without even thinking about it. (Like they did a half *** emissions delete.)

By the way: I have a TPS I can sell you, but I don't think that's what your idle problem is. I could be wrong though.

Here's some pics to help with the routing of that rubber vent line you were holding.

DaBrkddy

Here is what I think part of the problem is: the throttle has to be all the way closed in the idle position for all your adjustments to work. I noticed in one of your pics that there are no coolant lines going to the thermal wax on the back of the throttle body. This device's primary job is to run the engine at a fast idle (Approx. 1200 to 1500rpm) until the coolant heats up and the wax expands. After the wax inside starts to expand, the throttle will gently be moved closed so the engine will idle at around 750rpm.

Until the Thermal wax is functioning properly with the engine warmed up, your idle, TPS, Mixture screw, timing, etc. can not be set properly. (Unless you remove the thermal wax completely, which I don't recommend.)

All that being said, once you get your car to idle right:

To "Set" the Throttle Position Sensor you need "checker lamps." (A couple 194 bulbs will work, or you can go to radio shack and get couple 12v LEDs.)

Here is the procedure for setting the TPS to the best of my recollection:

Warm the engine up, then shut it off. Jumper the 2 prong "Initial set coupler" on the drivers side front corner of the engine bay. Plug the checker lamps into the green 3 prong check connector on the passenger side front corner of the engine bay. The checker lamps should be wired like this:

......Lamp 1 Positive (+) ===> | | <=== Lamp 2 positive (+)
Both Lamps Negative (-) ===> _

Turn the key to the on position with the engine off.

Now you turn the TPS adjusting screw on the primary throttle shaft (The one with the spring on the front side of the throttle body) until both lights illuminate, then adjust it till only one light illuminates.