over heating
02-24-04, 08:27 AM
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Location: Huntington Beach CA
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over heating
My N/A has a overheating problem with Los Angeles California's traffic, it always overheat in stop and go situations, but at night it runs fine, no traffic also runs fine, can this be my water pump or my electric fan? I think its my fan and how much would it cost to bring back teh stock fan?
New Mazda Thermostat
New Mazda Rad CAP
New RAD
And currently my Efan is wired up to the 12v ign(dont ask me why its hook up like this cuzz i bought the car like this)yes the eFAN has a shroud,
New Mazda Thermostat
New Mazda Rad CAP
New RAD
And currently my Efan is wired up to the 12v ign(dont ask me why its hook up like this cuzz i bought the car like this)yes the eFAN has a shroud,
02-24-04, 08:58 AM
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Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
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Sureshot’s Overheating – check list
1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump. Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
Banzaitoyota’s checklist
1.Are the Oil Cooler fins clear of debris and clean?
2.Does the Oil Cooler thermostat function properly?
3.Are the Radiator Fins clean of debris?
4.Is the Stock Bottom shroud still in place?
5.Are you running a Dual Belt Pulley on the Alt?
6.Did you install a NEW Water Pump when you installed the engine?
7.Is the bottom hose collapsing under load?
8.Did you have the Radiator and Oil Cooler cleaned and Flushed when installing the rebuild ( AS required by MOST REPUTABLE REBUILDERS)?
9. Have you verified water temps with a real gauge instead of the sock POS?
10. What ratio Coolant to Water are you running?
11. Are you running a new STOCK MAZDA OEM thermostat?
12. Mazda Rad Caps?
13. Stock Fan Shroud installed ( For those of you running stock Mechanical Fan)
14. Electric Fan users: Do you have a Shroud installed at all. Most installations only draw air directly across ~60% of the available core surface area.
15. are the stock deflectors installed around the relays forward of the Radiator Core Support?
16. If 15 is a no: Do you have an plate mounted across the support to direct air-flow?
17. Install a spring in the lower rad hose to keep it from collapsing at high RPM
1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump. Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
Banzaitoyota’s checklist
1.Are the Oil Cooler fins clear of debris and clean?
2.Does the Oil Cooler thermostat function properly?
3.Are the Radiator Fins clean of debris?
4.Is the Stock Bottom shroud still in place?
5.Are you running a Dual Belt Pulley on the Alt?
6.Did you install a NEW Water Pump when you installed the engine?
7.Is the bottom hose collapsing under load?
8.Did you have the Radiator and Oil Cooler cleaned and Flushed when installing the rebuild ( AS required by MOST REPUTABLE REBUILDERS)?
9. Have you verified water temps with a real gauge instead of the sock POS?
10. What ratio Coolant to Water are you running?
11. Are you running a new STOCK MAZDA OEM thermostat?
12. Mazda Rad Caps?
13. Stock Fan Shroud installed ( For those of you running stock Mechanical Fan)
14. Electric Fan users: Do you have a Shroud installed at all. Most installations only draw air directly across ~60% of the available core surface area.
15. are the stock deflectors installed around the relays forward of the Radiator Core Support?
16. If 15 is a no: Do you have an plate mounted across the support to direct air-flow?
17. Install a spring in the lower rad hose to keep it from collapsing at high RPM
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