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Other ways of removing the flywheel nut

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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 05:17 PM
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Other ways of removing the flywheel nut

Anyone ever had a flywheel nut just refuse to come off?

The last 2 engines i tore down i got the nut off by either a impact gun or gun combination brakerbar. However this nut just refuses to come off

ive heated the hell out of it, put a 3.5ft bar on there, had me and a friend STAND on the end or as close to the end as we could while the engine was braced to the ground, It just doesnt budge

Right now im atleast 9/10ths of the way cutting through the nut with a carbide bit, slamming on the nut hoping it will bend and still no go

any other ideas? Im hopgin i dont have to ruin the e-shaft to get this off

-Jacob
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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bouncing on the breaker bar will help break it loose, mine was on there pretty hard to, i stood on the motor and my 300lb dad bounced slightly on the bar and it broke loose with a bit of coaxing, also try tightening it
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 05:40 PM
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Try what blackrx7 said, they can be a bitch but keep playing with it and it should loosen up.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 05:44 PM
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mine I had a hard time bouncing on, so I beat on the end of the breaker bar with a hammer
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 05:45 PM
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Is the engine out of the car in shortblock form? Or no?

If it was out of the car, I would just bring it over to any shop that deals with cars and pay some guy $5-10 to get the nut off. Most shops should have huge air tools.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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I set the breaker bar close to the ground and kicked/stomped on it

tightening it up will help too, I think its got something to do with static friction or whatnot.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 06:40 PM
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chisel and hammer. be sure to kinda grind off the pointy end of chisel (make it kinda flat). Otherwise, you will slice the nut like a cheese cake.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 06:56 PM
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Whacking the breaker bar with a sledge is pretty effective. (Kinda rough on the bar) Have you tried penetrating oil yet? If not, try some Rust Buster. Bets stuff I've found yet. Otherwise, you can always take it to a truck stop and have them kick it loose with one of their monster impacts. (I had to do this for the front pulley bolt on my Triumph. I fought it for six hours. The guy put a 650 lb-ft impact on it and spun it off in ten seconds.)
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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Yeah, I've yet to come across any bolt or nut that is a challenge for my 500 ft-lb electric impact.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:45 AM
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I had a really stubborn nut once. The motor was in short block form, and I took it to a Semi Repair shop. The guy had it off in 5 seconds, (using a 1 inch impact)and refused to take any money I gave him. Save your strength and just toss it in the back of a pickup and take it to a place like this.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 03:58 AM
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And once you DO get it off, use anti-sieze on the threads, so that the NEXT time you have to take the nut off (and you will...) it wont be such a bitch.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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Well i jumped on it, heated it, pb-blasted it for anothe hr after i talked to you guys, it was Very stuck, i ended up cutting it off, , and even after i cutout a section, it was still relctent to move.

Just a recap for this engine: 2 hrs work, 1 bolt and 1 nut removed

-Jacob
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 10:36 AM
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I use a 6 foot breaker bar. There is NOTHING that this bar cannot remove with minimal effort.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 10:58 AM
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Get a piece of steel they use for sign posts.
The kind that has holes in it every 1/2 inch or so.
You want it about 5 feet long and find a pretty rigid piece of steel.
Bolt it to your flywheel. This makes it so the flywheel can't turn.
Get the biggest impact wrench you can find and hit it hard!
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 11:09 AM
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I use a two foot long Craftsman breakover bar and a twenty pound sledge hammer. An no, I don't wind up and hit the breakover bar with the hammer. But I do HIT the breakover bar several times. It works just the same as an impact wrench. It's the jarring action that loosens the nut.

A word of caution. DO NOT PUT ANIT SEIZE ON THE THREADS WHEN REINSTALLING THE NUT. The manual calls out for LOCKTITE to be put on the threads upon reinstallation. Much the same for the front pulley bolt. That one also takes some SEALANT to be applied when you reinstall it.
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:04 PM
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Ok, no anti-seize. Ill rember that sign post way for next time, i have some angle iron at a friends house
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Old Jan 24, 2004 | 01:51 PM
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I had to hit mine with a gun for 15 minutes on and off. Eventually it came off. Between impacting I would just shoot some PB in there. Maybe yours rusted on or something?
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