Other ways of removing the flywheel nut
#1
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Other ways of removing the flywheel nut
Anyone ever had a flywheel nut just refuse to come off?
The last 2 engines i tore down i got the nut off by either a impact gun or gun combination brakerbar. However this nut just refuses to come off
ive heated the hell out of it, put a 3.5ft bar on there, had me and a friend STAND on the end or as close to the end as we could while the engine was braced to the ground, It just doesnt budge
Right now im atleast 9/10ths of the way cutting through the nut with a carbide bit, slamming on the nut hoping it will bend and still no go
any other ideas? Im hopgin i dont have to ruin the e-shaft to get this off
-Jacob
The last 2 engines i tore down i got the nut off by either a impact gun or gun combination brakerbar. However this nut just refuses to come off
ive heated the hell out of it, put a 3.5ft bar on there, had me and a friend STAND on the end or as close to the end as we could while the engine was braced to the ground, It just doesnt budge
Right now im atleast 9/10ths of the way cutting through the nut with a carbide bit, slamming on the nut hoping it will bend and still no go
any other ideas? Im hopgin i dont have to ruin the e-shaft to get this off
-Jacob
#2
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bouncing on the breaker bar will help break it loose, mine was on there pretty hard to, i stood on the motor and my 300lb dad bounced slightly on the bar and it broke loose with a bit of coaxing, also try tightening it
#5
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Is the engine out of the car in shortblock form? Or no?
If it was out of the car, I would just bring it over to any shop that deals with cars and pay some guy $5-10 to get the nut off. Most shops should have huge air tools.
If it was out of the car, I would just bring it over to any shop that deals with cars and pay some guy $5-10 to get the nut off. Most shops should have huge air tools.
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#8
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Whacking the breaker bar with a sledge is pretty effective. (Kinda rough on the bar) Have you tried penetrating oil yet? If not, try some Rust Buster. Bets stuff I've found yet. Otherwise, you can always take it to a truck stop and have them kick it loose with one of their monster impacts. (I had to do this for the front pulley bolt on my Triumph. I fought it for six hours. The guy put a 650 lb-ft impact on it and spun it off in ten seconds.)
#10
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I had a really stubborn nut once. The motor was in short block form, and I took it to a Semi Repair shop. The guy had it off in 5 seconds, (using a 1 inch impact)and refused to take any money I gave him. Save your strength and just toss it in the back of a pickup and take it to a place like this.
#12
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Well i jumped on it, heated it, pb-blasted it for anothe hr after i talked to you guys, it was Very stuck, i ended up cutting it off, , and even after i cutout a section, it was still relctent to move.
Just a recap for this engine: 2 hrs work, 1 bolt and 1 nut removed
-Jacob
Just a recap for this engine: 2 hrs work, 1 bolt and 1 nut removed
-Jacob
#14
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Get a piece of steel they use for sign posts.
The kind that has holes in it every 1/2 inch or so.
You want it about 5 feet long and find a pretty rigid piece of steel.
Bolt it to your flywheel. This makes it so the flywheel can't turn.
Get the biggest impact wrench you can find and hit it hard!
The kind that has holes in it every 1/2 inch or so.
You want it about 5 feet long and find a pretty rigid piece of steel.
Bolt it to your flywheel. This makes it so the flywheel can't turn.
Get the biggest impact wrench you can find and hit it hard!
#15
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I use a two foot long Craftsman breakover bar and a twenty pound sledge hammer. An no, I don't wind up and hit the breakover bar with the hammer. But I do HIT the breakover bar several times. It works just the same as an impact wrench. It's the jarring action that loosens the nut.
A word of caution. DO NOT PUT ANIT SEIZE ON THE THREADS WHEN REINSTALLING THE NUT. The manual calls out for LOCKTITE to be put on the threads upon reinstallation. Much the same for the front pulley bolt. That one also takes some SEALANT to be applied when you reinstall it.
A word of caution. DO NOT PUT ANIT SEIZE ON THE THREADS WHEN REINSTALLING THE NUT. The manual calls out for LOCKTITE to be put on the threads upon reinstallation. Much the same for the front pulley bolt. That one also takes some SEALANT to be applied when you reinstall it.
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