Ok, I finally got some money and I am ready to start to build up my car. I have a 1990 N/A. As of right now it has the following:
Koyo radiator
Mr. Gasker e-fan
Cone filter
Air box and headlight vent
removed pre cats
Catco converter
HKS mufflers
NGK plugs
Optima battery
Removed AC
Mazda trix short shifter

and it is ready to go and get a clutch, I am looking at this one on nopi, any suggestions on a cltuch,a nd what to do further would be great, below is a few things I want to do

http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/...A%20RX7%201990

What I would like to do:
Lightweight flywheel
MSD ignition
RE plug wires
Remove emissions stuff
header and straight pipe
TB port
FD intake manifold
Ported intake
Apexi SAFC2
TurboII fuel pump
Larger injectors
AEM fuel pressure rugulator

later on down the road, Rebuild with street port and fd corner seals all that stuff

Is what I have good? is what I want to do good, anyting would be greatly appriciated

 

this is just what i think, wait till the experts chime in but here it goes

Fc's have a good enough ignition as is, dont waste the money.

bigger injectors arent needed as of yet, you need to lean out the stock curve so you dont need more fuel.

Im not sure if the FD mani will help any, it will remove the VDI and possibly the 5/6 port actuators.

The Safc is a good idea, but if you want to go further, get a standalone; a megasquirt setup is about the same cost, but you need to make it yourself.

If you change to a new FPR make the fuel rails parallel as opposed to the stock inline setup.

The lightened flywheel could go either way but i think our torqueless monsters wouldnt launch too well, but it would probably help in autocross.

I would also suggest nitrous, it produces less wear on the engine than a turbo and doesnt hurt daily driving fuel mileage.

You should put money into an LSD and suspension, these help greatly in auto-x

also have you thought about an FD alternator, these increase available power for electronic goodies

 

I have an lsd already, I also have done 4 pots on it, hawk pads endless uas lines, looking at brembos next, I have kyb all around with intrax springs and poly bushings too. I am looking at an fd alternator and a serpentine belt conversion, but, still not sure cause I am only a year into the rotary scene, don know much, any help would be great!

 

Also, want to say, I am not turboing it, I just got some cash, an dhave a lot of machining abilities, so, I would love to do a individual throttle body, or carb set upo, but need lots of info, and I drive it every day, also, my plans are not to make a drag car, just a fast car for backroads, and be able to do well in autox and drift

 

Keep in mind that you need to still run an AFM for your ECU to work, which makes the FD intake manifold's hard to deal with.

 

The FC ignition is old and outdated now, the MSD or other aftermarket CSD ignitions are a good idea.

 

wonderin ..why the converter ..then you are removing emissions..still goin to keep the converter?

 

misread ..sorry..thought you were gettin a CATCO..

 

Also, unless you have a large port, you won't need to upgrade the fuel system. The NA system already runs way rich. Changing injectors and pump are a waste on moderatly modded NAs. What you should do is have the stock injectors sent out and have them sonic cleaned and rebuilt. Also, if you're doing the clutch, or having it done, get the flywheel now, so that when you have the clutch done and the engine and tranny are seperate, they can be done at the same time.

 

Ok, well, I think I will do injector thing soon, and I understand fuelk pump n stuff, but, I cant affor dflywheel yet, it would be about 3 weeks, and my cars clutch is gone now, and in the shop wednesday, so, I cant wait, I have no car rightnow, so, Ill have to put it in later on, but, I understna dwhat you mean, and am with you, I simply don have the funds

 

anybody had luck with a carb set up yet? if so, where do I get all the stuff at, theres a manifold on ebay right now, but, thats al I have seen, anyhting ideas or tips, stories bout em, anything, i have heard it makes good power with a carb

 

DOn't go carb if you drive it everyday. You won't like it.

 

ok, any reasons behind it? gas milage i assume won tbe grat, althoguh I am only getting about 13-15 now for some reason(assume injectors need cleaned) does it load up because of fuel being pumped in. Would different rotors do anything?

 

also, any pics and stuff of how do the the port mod, with the sleeves n stuff, for my 5th and 6th port???

 

For one, it kills fuel milage, as you said. Also, it just hurts the general drivability of the car. Sure you might get a little more power up top, but you would have crap down low.

 

Ok, I was not aware of the power thing. Ok, thnkas sideways7, Im not concearned bout milage, it wont be driven every day,but I want to be able to if I have to. Also, would switching over to braided oil cooler liens do anything fo rme, besides give me nice and new lines? what about a fuel cooler with braided line? A grounding kit? any of it worth it

 

Yeah, I think about the only reason to go carb is for a track car where the rules don't allow a standalone, which is going to be your best bet for power and drivability (the standalone). And I've never heard of a fuel cooler before, maybe someone else will chime in.

 

ok, well thanks for your input, anybody esle got recomendation shere, what about ITB's?

 

Tweakit has a kit.

How much money do you have? That will answer about how far you'll go.

 

I saw the kit on there, for 850 AUS, I am looking into it right now, but, I am concearned that my motor is on its last leg, so, I think smartest thign would be rebuild and street port it now, then do ITP's and flywheel, and go from there, it has 170 k on it, but still pulls, So, I thinkIll go that route for now

 

and I have about 3500 to spend, but most will go into my rebuild and port job, since I havent the slightest ideas bout rotaries. Then, Id like to do ITB's, 750 is gone for clutch to get put in it. So, I just wanna squeeze sme juice out of it, but Nitrous sounds liek th ebest idea, althoguh I am trying to stay away from big power adders as much as possible, till I can go no further with it

 

wow $3500 won't get ya far then if you need a rebuild still... also I can recommend a good place to have your injector cleaned and balanced if your interested pm me and will give info... was about $145 shipped next day both ways for me.

 

Forget the FD manifold... FD's are not even 6 port engines. I think people only do that swap on a T2.

You want to keep your VDI and 6 port systems, especially on a street car. When you do the rebuild you can get the pineapple racing port sleeves. They are only like $60 or something. I've got them in my car.

For exhaust I run the RB header, a completely straight midpipe, and the RB 2.5" catback. You could use a Borla XR-1 muffler as a midpipe as well... don't get the RB presilencer, it's not worth the money.

 

I was about to disagree with you until I remembered it was an s5. It is worth the money for an s4, though, because it keeps the aux ports operational.
Also, how much of the rebuild is being done by other people? If its just the rebuild you're ok, but if they are doing everything (you drive the car in and they install everything) then thats going to take up most of your budget. Also, get the clutch and flywheel done while the engine is out. That will save you a lot of money.

 

Mine were done for $18 each at a diesel shop. I got them back the next day.