one rotor rx?
#1
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
one rotor rx?
hey all
recently i had checked my compression in my 88 fc and it seems the front rotor is tip top with 90 psi all around and the rear rotor has a measly 30 psi so is it possible to make my rx run off of one rotor so i can possibly get it going and possibly rev it up and heat that rear rotor up and possibly seal it better?
recently i had checked my compression in my 88 fc and it seems the front rotor is tip top with 90 psi all around and the rear rotor has a measly 30 psi so is it possible to make my rx run off of one rotor so i can possibly get it going and possibly rev it up and heat that rear rotor up and possibly seal it better?
#7
Lives on the Forum
She'll run on one rotor, and even rev to 7K or more in neutral, but she'll run rough, get horrible gas mileage, won't idle without some help, and you'll have less than 1/2 the power you'd otherwise have...If you're insane enough to to run her on one, the less compression the other has, the better
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
and 85 in the manual is bare min on a PROPER rotary compression testor.
IF you drive on that blown rotor and have driven on it then you have/will toast the housings, rotors and god knows how much else you will destroy.
IF you drive on that blown rotor and have driven on it then you have/will toast the housings, rotors and god knows how much else you will destroy.
#9
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Tiers
and 85 in the manual is bare min on a PROPER rotary compression testor.
IF you drive on that blown rotor and have driven on it then you have/will toast the housings, rotors and god knows how much else you will destroy.
IF you drive on that blown rotor and have driven on it then you have/will toast the housings, rotors and god knows how much else you will destroy.
#11
Mechanical Engineering
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Terrh
you're looking at about $500 USD for a basic rebuild + more if you need a rotor and housings.
and that's not even changing the bearings or anything...
and that's not even changing the bearings or anything...
#16
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by totallimmortal
500 for a rebuild kit? i keep seein like 900 where can i get one for 500 i might goi ahead and do it
500 is for the bare minumum... usually just the rubber gaskets...
a complete rebuild kit will cost you about a grand. (thats new oil seals, new corner seals, the apex seals, new sides seals, new springs for the aforementioned, new water seals, a new oil chain,
500 is what guys like me spend to rebuild a good running motor cause some idiot rebuilt it and didn't put new oil seals in the rotors and it smokes like hell... If the hard parts are not very old, you can reuse them, but EVERYTHING has to go back EXACTLY where it came from and it all has to be cleaned and checked. Its worth the time to same 500 bucks, but not if the hard parts are really old and worn, you'll just be wasting time.
my advice... it you are doing this for the first time.. you'd better get the full kit and replace EVERYTHING... because if you don't, you will spend three weeks with a dial caliper, a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer trying to seel if all the hard parts are in spec again... and if the engine has over 100k on it, its likely that they are not!!!!
ALSO.... most rebuild kits DO NOT INCLUDE rotor bearings andstationary gear bearings which i've ALWAYS found need replaced on high mileage engines, or the external gaskets
I get my hard parts from rotary aviation, their new apex seals are the bomb.... I piece together the soft seals, and gasketts from my Mazda dealer (i get a discount) and McMaster-Car.
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 10-27-04 at 10:46 AM.
#17
Mountain Rotary Mod
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Freaking Poland!!
Posts: 2,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by capn
would it be more economical to buy a new/used engine?
Believe me, running on 1 rotor is bad. The engine i'm rebuilding now was run on 1 rotor and the rotor and housing are worthless now.
#18
I had to drive mine on one rotor for a bit (since the rear rotor blew in the middle of a highway onramp... no idea why). The rear rotor had zero compression, so it was a proper 1-rotor.
You don't want to do that. Really. It won't idle below 1000 RPM, revs very slowly, has no power (slip the clutch up to 30 or so), and is absolutely zero fun to drive.
-=Russ=-
You don't want to do that. Really. It won't idle below 1000 RPM, revs very slowly, has no power (slip the clutch up to 30 or so), and is absolutely zero fun to drive.
-=Russ=-
#22
Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
500 is for the bare minumum... usually just the rubber gaskets...
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm
-Joe
#23
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by OverDriven
You are paying $500 for a soft rebuild kit!? Ouch! You can get them for $160:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm
-Joe
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/o-ring_kits.htm
-Joe
Unless you're gonna you know, put it back together with some high temp RTV or something... good luck with that.
--Gary
#24
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
hell...I was hoping to see a write-up on a 6A or 6.5B rotary engine...:p
#25
Originally Posted by Bob_The_Normal
That's great and all, but maybe when you do your own engine rebuild though you'll find out about the other expenses and won't make insanely low quotes for a rebuild of any kind for $160 in parts... it will cost around 450-500$ for a soft rebuild no matter how cheaply you get the parts.
Unless you're gonna you know, put it back together with some high temp RTV or something... good luck with that.
--Gary
Unless you're gonna you know, put it back together with some high temp RTV or something... good luck with that.
--Gary
-Joe