One Quick Question
#1
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One Quick Question
I am going to look at another 7 in a few days its been in a barn for a few years. I know on piston motors sometimes you have to spray fogging oil in the cylinders to make a good seal to gain compression and to lubricate the cylinders, is this true with apex seals in the rotary?
#2
I have always used ATF. (Automatic Transmission Fluid) (to bring compression back).
However I would imagine the BEST way to bring back oil pressure is to pull the plugs out of the engine....and spin it over until you see oil pressure on the guage.
Make sure to change the oil first...
I guess the real question is...what are you doing to do with this car... Are you trying to make it run before you buy it...are these things your going to do after you buy it....
However I would imagine the BEST way to bring back oil pressure is to pull the plugs out of the engine....and spin it over until you see oil pressure on the guage.
Make sure to change the oil first...
I guess the real question is...what are you doing to do with this car... Are you trying to make it run before you buy it...are these things your going to do after you buy it....
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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If the car has been in a barn for a few years, there's a LOT that has to be done before you even think of starting it.
-drain all fluids and change (especially the gas)
-flush out fuel lines
-replace all filters (especially the fuel filter)
-replace belts
-replace hoses
-thoroughly inspect engine bay and wiring checking for shorts, critter damage, etc.
Now you can pull the leading plug from each rotor and put a few ounces of oil into the chambers. Rotate it by hand a few times, then add more oil. Pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine for a few seconds at a time about 4-5 times to build oil pressure and distribute the oil around the inside of the engine. Now put your EGI fuse and plugs back, then start and let it idle while checking for leaks, fires, etc. Before you put it back onto the road a thorough brake, suspension and underside inspection is needed. Don't forget the tires, because they are likely rotted.
I've been meaning to make a writeup on this...
-drain all fluids and change (especially the gas)
-flush out fuel lines
-replace all filters (especially the fuel filter)
-replace belts
-replace hoses
-thoroughly inspect engine bay and wiring checking for shorts, critter damage, etc.
Now you can pull the leading plug from each rotor and put a few ounces of oil into the chambers. Rotate it by hand a few times, then add more oil. Pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine for a few seconds at a time about 4-5 times to build oil pressure and distribute the oil around the inside of the engine. Now put your EGI fuse and plugs back, then start and let it idle while checking for leaks, fires, etc. Before you put it back onto the road a thorough brake, suspension and underside inspection is needed. Don't forget the tires, because they are likely rotted.
I've been meaning to make a writeup on this...
#4
before you buy it make sure it was never sitting on grass ever or the bottom will be rusted out like no tomorrow and you wont be able to do anything with it. happened to me once
#5
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Originally Posted by SCCAIT7
I have always used ATF. (Automatic Transmission Fluid) (to bring compression back).
#7
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Why would you use ATF? It's engine oil that seals the rotors to the chambers, so why use anything but engine oil to restore compression?
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
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#8
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I read that years ago...
I thought he was referring to restoring compression caused by flooding. Some people think you need to use ATF for that too, but engine oil is all you need.
In this case engine oil should be used first as Aaron suggested, to ensure the engine is properly lubricated before trying to start it. There's no indication it actually has low-compression problems yet.
I thought he was referring to restoring compression caused by flooding. Some people think you need to use ATF for that too, but engine oil is all you need.
In this case engine oil should be used first as Aaron suggested, to ensure the engine is properly lubricated before trying to start it. There's no indication it actually has low-compression problems yet.
#9
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Originally Posted by driftin8ez
When you have some time read this....
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
#10
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Yeah, too bad that ATF has been proved many times (by myself and others) to not do a thing to dissolve carbon...It does, however, attack all the rubber in the engine with obvious consequences...
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by driftin8ez
When you have some time read this....
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
#12
wow didn't realize that atf was that bad. Never heard anything but good about it. So there isn't anything that can be used to free up sieze apex seals like atf promises to do? what about good ol' seafoam?
#13
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Originally Posted by driftin8ez
so what would you recomend instead of atf to do what it claims? Raise compression by freeing up sticking or siezed apex seals? Nothing?
#14
yeah its a rotary
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when my motor locked up,"87 turbo 2" due to sitting .
i used marvel mystery oil or = to ATF i didnt have a prob with it. and it did what i needed it to do.....after the rotors where free again i took the leading spark plugs out and let the motor shoot out that ATF out from in there....as far as compresstion YES a oil change is recomended for a car that has sat for who knows how long.. do the other things that arroncake listed in his post. and you should be able to drive away.
i used marvel mystery oil or = to ATF i didnt have a prob with it. and it did what i needed it to do.....after the rotors where free again i took the leading spark plugs out and let the motor shoot out that ATF out from in there....as far as compresstion YES a oil change is recomended for a car that has sat for who knows how long.. do the other things that arroncake listed in his post. and you should be able to drive away.
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