Well I am on the quest for horsepower and I need some ideas you can already see what i have on the bottom of this message but I cant give up my car for a few weeks to get it ported it is my daily driver right now. Well if I could get some ideas and if you could tell me how your car s4 na does on a 1/4 mile and what you have done to it that would be nice. My car did a 16.10 last night but I want more I was going to run nitrus but if there is something else I would like to know. thank you

 

Just learn to enjoy your car the way it is.

My view is the only true horsepower adder is forced induction. Although a header and new exhaust system does add the biggest kick -- which I see you already have though.

 

well I was always told I cant add forced induction to a na if i can i will maybe i can get some ideas on that thank you

 

if anybody has done this I would like to know and what mods they did to run forced induction thank you

 

dude if you ahve all that done and you are still running 16's your engine is **** or you can't drive. most likly the second one. . get a nice clutch and flywheel combo. and learn how to drive it better. you should be running like at least low 15's. are your 5th and 6th ports opening. maybe that's the prolem. . come to thing of it with the header and everthing it probably is. . figure out your 6p and then go back

 

are the 6 port the ones with the sleeves in it under the intake manifold and on top of the exaust and I also heard of wireing them open how do i do that also how do I go about checking my 6 port thanks

 

man you can get those pinaple sleaves at corksport for like 40 some odd dollars. I would go that rout. Also if you look at aaron cakes website (member here, link in his sig) he has done the n/a turbo install and has a write up on the hole thing! Very good info!

 

thank you this is just what i needed but if anyone could let me in on how to check my 6p i would love it

 

Hey man, do you have a haynes manual? If you do there is a good little spot on how to check if your ports are opening up. Otherwise it's relatively easy to figure out if you use the search button, and there MAY also be a writeup on that in the archives.

Matt

 

I was searching for 6 port but I could not find anything on checking them but i also was looking at a lot of good threads so maybe I missed that one but I will see if I can find ma haynes book thank you

 

An easy way to know wheter or not your ports are opening is by listening to your engine past about 4,000rpms. It'll make a sort of deep VTEC-y sound.

 

I can not believe you compared it to that. *sigh*
lol it's all good though.
V-tec...
Matt

 

I just went and checked my 6p and my rear one was not moving I took the actuator off and I played with the lever that its on and I got it to move freely do you think I will have problems with it and is it ok to lube the actuator with motor oil?

 

i would check the actuator also if i were you. there is a metalvac tube that runs under the lower intake manifold that hasa tendency to rot out. if that has happened just get some 1/4 inch vac tube and run that to each actuator. For now until you can get them workin proporly i would wire them open if i were you. you will loose a little bit of low end torque but it will still be very streetable, and at the track it will be just like they were working, only more reliable. to wire them open just get 2 zip ties. remove the actuators, and zip tie them in the 6 oclock position. if you still are not sure on which way to wire them open, look at them with the actuator on. the 6port rod will be inlike the 12 or 1 oclock position. also to wire them open just zip tie the little *** on the 6 port rod to the top stud that holds on each actuator. this should satisfy your horsepower need. once those 6ports open, or you get above lke 4,000 rpm you will feel it. it will be like night and day from when they wern't open. expecially with your other mods. good luck. post your results.
Dom

 

ok I just wired open my 6p and it does feel better I think that was my problem this whole time next step ignition then n2o. thanks all

 

I'm not trying to be a ***** here...but you might want to make sure the engine is running RIGHT before you even think about adding nitrous. Wiring your ports open is not fixing the problem.

If your serious about it, search for the nitrous writup by scathscart, it'll have all you need to know.

 

how much nitrous are you planning on running?
might want to get a better fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator if its anything significant.

an aftermarket ignition like you mentioned is not a bad idea and perhaps a retard box that activates when you are on nitrous might be a nice idea

 

good. don't worry about your ports being wired. it's not bad for the car. you will suffer a slight loss below 4,000 rpm's like i said before but that's it. no other real side afects. having them in correct working order is better but i would rather have them wired open then stuck shut all the time. and i have driven my car with them open all the time and shut all the time for good lengths of time. another mod you might want to consider before n20 would be swaping on a set of s5 intake manifolds. they will add a noticable increase in power. although it will and does take some mechanical "know how" to do. it will add more power then any exhaust could dream of, and if you port your manifolds while your at it you might be happy with out n20. just some ideas for you. good luck
Dom

 

your also in new mexico which for the most part is a bit above sea level so your times will be slower than cars with the same setup at sea level. for instance when i was in tucson and drove to phoenix i noticed a pretty big difference in the way the car pulled b/c tucson is at ~3000+ ft. just some info in case you didnt know.

 

I hate jacking peoples threads and everything, but the pinapple sleaves are a crock. Don't get me wrong, if you switch your 6-port to forced induction, they are a great touch, but if you keep it N/A, they just limit the ammount of air space in the sleaves for F/A mix. Think about it this way, you are cutting down the potential volume of the sleaves with this peice.

You like to think that this would help the flow being that it directs the F/A mix to the chamber, but in reality, you are compromizing the flow because it is already naturally pulled in by the vaccum induced by the chamber volume increasing as the rotor moves past the sleave. The sleave is just an impedence in this effect.

Just thought that this might help prevent any uselessly spent money.
Also, I never saw any reports of power gains with this product.

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Now that that is out of the way, I think that your problem lies in your 6th port sleaves. A high-flow exhaust kills back pressure. Thats its job. The problem is that with s4's, the aux ports rely on this back pressure to open them when under load. s5's didn't have this problem, being that the ports were actuated by the air pump, not exhaust back pressure. I say wire them open, or you could switch over to an s5-type setup, but thats probably more work then it's worth.

On a side note, sombody did a writeup on how to put an electric air pump off of the seat of a crown vic into the engine bay and activate the aux ports. I don't remember any details, but you should search for that if you want to keep some bottom end torque (thats why you have 5th and 6th port sleaves, in case you didn't know).

 

well I know my engine is running good I had a compression check done and they say its fine and everything else is good I really baby this bar when it comes to maintance I also am going to run a 30 or 50 shot max and thanks for the tip on the s5 intake manis. I will think about it after I get it street ported but thats not till I get another car.