rxcollector

I couldnt beleive it!
not only is the turbos exhaust flange cracked in a million places, so is the exhaust header. I am stunned it didnt fall off the car. I take it thats all junk now. (motor and turbo has 170K on it) but thats not where the surprises ended...

The O2 sensor is tapped right into the exhaust pipe about 2" from the turbo, is that right? I thought they were supposed to go into the cat?

Then as I keep tearing the car apart I noticed the electrical. I said "holy **** !" I can not beleive the hack job done to this car! And that little thingy you turn that has a R-L on it, I suppose that the mixture screw of some sort was cranked all the way to the R. And this motor ran??? barely :P

So I have figured that every little thing I take off is either broke, cracked, or wired wrong. I reacked my lil ol finger into the exhaust ports and oh my.. some seriously deep scratching going on.

So guys is this all typical stuff to find on these AE cars? or any turbo at that?
What can I do to get away from all the steel cracking?

Thanks guys for the info

T>W>

casio

O2 sensors are normally in exhaust manifolds, not in the cat.

n4ji

iTrader: (1)

With an engine with that high of mileage, you're bound to have a lot of carbon buildup in your exhaust ports, hence the scratching you witnessed. It is merely the way rotories are. It doesn't matter if it's a turbo or NA, carbon buildup is a way of life.

BLACK ROCKET

How much did you pay for it???

rxcollector

I paid WAAYYY to much for the car, and as I dig into it I relize more and more how I got taken.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

This only adds fuel to the fire about my comments in the "10ae's overrated" thread. Im telling you, you will find **** torn up and rigged up on a 10th that you have never seen and will never see again in your life. Why, I dont know, given this was the top of the line model for it's year. Every once in a while you see a nice one, but this usually holds true.

NZConvertible

Yep, that's the stock location.
That only alters the idle mixture, so while it's not really supposed to be sitting hard to one end, as long as it was idling okay it's no great concern. There's a procedure for setting it correctly in the FSM.

He has a Turbo, not an NA.

casio

thats why youre there, right? to back me up..
so is it in the "downpipe"? i dont even know what all the stock exhaust pieces are called.
replace an exhaust manifold and it becomes a "header." like a square to a rectangle..

NZConvertible

On a NA, the O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold like you said. On the Turbo, it's in the downpipe after the turbo.

vicious525E

i was about to say, my car was born with a turbo and mines in the "down pipe"

rxcollector

yes it is in the down pipe. I was told that there is supposed to be a cat there by a mazda dealer. Well they told me there is supposed to be 2 cats on the car but mine has one.

Hey Kevin..
I almost have this motor out! I will let you know when I get it pulled so I can find out how to ship it to you. and I will also take care of all the "hack" work LOL so this one isnt like all the others.

Anyone out here have an exhaust manifold that isnt broke for sale? I just cant beleive that all of this is broke????

What do I need to do to avoid future breaking of the manifolds? There has to be a solution to this.

theonlygreat

Turbo manifolds are bound to crack from heat. I believe an aftermarket tubular manifold has a greater resistance to cracking than a cast iron one. I'm not sure if they make an aftermarket one that fits the stock turbo though, especially on an S4. You might be able to find a used one that is less cracked, but i doubt you'll find one with no cracks.

That is probably a performance aftermarket downpipe you have on there since it replaces the 2 pre-cats, which are what the dealer was talking about.

rxcollector

well that sucks, I dont want to use a cracked manifold.

is there a way to repair them?

I found an aftermarket manifold but it has the external wastegate port on it. Maybe I can just block that off and use my stock turbo with the internal wastegate.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

There is no aftermarket for the stock turbo. Either run a stock manifold (yes, all will be cracked at least a little) or go to a full on aftermarket turbo upgrade.

You can't repair cast iron and have it last very long.

You're in the same boat as everyone else...

rxcollector

I didnt know my boat was sinking!
thanks Kevin, what a DAMN mess I got myself into

Matt22

iTrader: (10)

now your rebuilding the engine and all, and i do see the value in keeping it stock but you should get one that will perform better, or at least get another one from a turbo car, as far as the hack job goes any thought to jsut replacing all the wireing in the engine bay with another harness. bet you could find one on this forum some where. but thats all my .02 lates Matt22

rxcollector

I dont think I will be "sticking" with stock under the hood, just doesnt make sense. I am adding the S5 turbo (accidently) so there goes the idea of stock.

my main problem im trying to solve is the manifold. Now I am told that the S5 turbo wont go on my S4 manifold. but yet I was told it was a direct bolt on.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Well, I'd like to extend this to all FCs. I am continually amazed at the hacked and jerry rigged FCs I see in both real life and on this forum...

ddub

god ur tellin me... every time i take something apart or check something out in my GXL i find more surprises... i have random cut wires, plugs that go nowhere, cut grounds, "custom" wiring that is more confusing than stock etc etc... most of its wiring stuff cuz the last owner had an alarm, keyless entry, remote start, a system, custom headlights that are custom wired, and thats all i know of. When he sold the car everything was taken out and the wires were just cut. When i put in my mp3 player i had to rewire the whole thing cuz the wires were all cut and no longer the stock ones, took wayyyy longer than it should've

rrewq

dDuB... I checked out your ford escape car in your sig... you get 160db out of those 2 little subs?? Have you actually metered it? Or is it a guesstimate?

ddub

hahahaha 2 little subs? those are kicker solobaric L7 12's man... since subs are normally measured in size when they are circles, being square means they actually have larger area than a circle 12.. they are the equivalent of almost 15's, each.. plus they are ran parallel and powered by a bd1000.1 fosgate amp that has been tested to run at 1248 watts, along with a 5.0 ferad cap. In addition ive sound proofed the hatch and all the doors, so less bass is lost from rattling inside the panels... yes i have had them tested, when they were untuned i ran them at a cartoys outlaw drags and got 160.2 dB, since then they've been tuned and supposedly put out a tiny bit more, but more than anything they sound better now, i didnt notice a dB increase

ddub

oh and just an FYI... size of the sub doesnt always mean everything. The car, how the box is made, and the quality of the sub makes a big difference. I saw someone with a single version of my subs in a custom bandpass box in a hatch that hit 158 dB.. and then i saw someone with an 18" sub only hit 154 cuz his box was crap and he was running it in the bed of a truck

casio

since the thread is done, is it okay to get a little off subject?
i dont think he ever seriously tested them, but my friend had 6 12" JL W3s in a fiberglass box (no more trunk or rear seats) in a 94(/95/96?) Mustang. i want to say he hit 157db without turning them up much. small cabin definately helps.

ddub

yah definitely smaller space allows for more bass... i mean, in my SUV im actually losing bass to all the open area i have, if my same setup was in a hatch, holy crap i dont think i could handle it


The CarToys outlaw drag competition was a bass competition, everything was official. They had a meter and measured inside the car on a designated part of the dash, outlaw measurement where you could put it anywhere you wanted in the car and a driveby where you measure from outside the car. I didnt do the driveby because of my sound proofing since it keeps the bass inside, but the normal measurement on the dash was 159.6 and the outlaw was 160.2 with an accurate dB meter

casio

i think outside bass is the most pointless. if i had 160 inside and 2 outside, i'd love it. crack the window and that'd change.
i'm not into systems anymore at all, just one of those things i respect in its own right. i had 2 12" JL W3s in a custom sealed wood box in a 95 Ford Probe. i never had it dB tested; i was 16 at the time. that was my peak. now i'm more into monkey cages and turbos. and rotaries.