al0389

iTrader: (1)

I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.


^^ was taken from the 2nd gen FAQ

Now my question: When I crank the motor, cold, with the coolant system full, the coolant spews out of the filler hole (cap off) and when I keep the cap on, pressure builds up in the system and water spews out when the cap is removed (like if it were overheating). Left over night the system will get low and the engine bubbles like crazy when running. I cranked it this evening and water shot out of the header (ive been filling with just water to diagnose) There is a stink of fuel and the engine has only been run to try and fill the system. So I'm assuming it's fuel in the water... I just want a few opinions from other rotary guys before I pull this engine, I have an extra engine from the convertible I wanted to sell, but it might just become apart out now... I'm almost certain that's what the problem is, but I guess I'm still in a state of denial... Probably because I just bought this car as a non running car, got it to run, it apparently has ~25k on a rebuild, and just spent the last 4 days swapping the TII drivetrain, and coils from my other car and put it in here. I guess I'm venting, i just started a new job, still have training to complete from this job (about 30 more hours to go), I start at 520AM and it's ~25 miles away. I just did all this to get out of my ruined DD vert (someone cut the roof open stole all my ****, and **** up the car) I dunno what to do, I just spent all my cash on this ****, and still don't have a car, until I get off on the weekend... Oh man... Time to see who can dive me to work at 4am...


Edit: The cars are an 88 Rx7 Vert n/a with TI drivetrain, and an 86 gxl stock
The drivetrains were just swapped so the gxl now has a TII drivetrain, and coils that were on the vert.
How long can one expect to swap an engine at home, without interruption?

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Best way, cooling system pressure tester. Rent it at auto parts store. Then check engine compression using regular compression gauge.

Water is not supposed to be in the engine combustion chamber. Water=BAD. I don't think you need tools to diagnose this one.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Depends on how well you know your way around the engine.

Oh, and it does sound like your coolant seals let go.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

Sounds a lot like your coolant seals are toast. Good thing is a rebuild will be cheaper for you since you probably won't have to buy new rotors/irons.

You and a buddy could easily swap motors in a day. it's basically unplug/unbolt, take out, put in, plug in/bolt up. Drink more beer.

al0389

iTrader: (1)

I know my way around it, the only thing I haven't pulled out of that car is the motor, but I've pulled the diff and trans out plenty of times. The vert motor has no emissions, and a less clustered engine bay than the gxl, the gxl is bone stock. I fell I should have both engines out in probably a few hours, and the motors swapped in a day, maybe day and 1/2

I don't plan on rebuilding, just swapping my vert motor with ~70k on its rebuild, but it's still running like a champ. The buyer I had on the car, won't buy with a blown engine, so I'll probably have part out posted soon..