ok about to get this fc but here wat the guy said
04-09-07, 08:41 PM
#1
ok about to get this fc but here wat the guy said
well i told him to get a compression test a base model with 190k on it . he said this to me:
The car is apart on the inside. It is driveable but you would need to replace the windshield it has a crack. I did the compression test today each "cylinder" if you will read 120 psi. I was reading my chiltons service manual and it stated that you need a specific tool to test compression on Rotary engines. A standard comrpression tester which I had today will not read both rotor housings properly. So I don't know what that does for you. I ran the car today for about 20 minutes and it idled at 1000rpm the whole time
wat u guys think the body is in good condition with a t2 hood wat should i offer him?
The car is apart on the inside. It is driveable but you would need to replace the windshield it has a crack. I did the compression test today each "cylinder" if you will read 120 psi. I was reading my chiltons service manual and it stated that you need a specific tool to test compression on Rotary engines. A standard comrpression tester which I had today will not read both rotor housings properly. So I don't know what that does for you. I ran the car today for about 20 minutes and it idled at 1000rpm the whole time
wat u guys think the body is in good condition with a t2 hood wat should i offer him?
04-09-07, 08:49 PM
#2
Not enough information.
What does "apart on the inside" actually mean- all the parts are there and just need to be installed or "missing all the expensive stuff"?
Assume the engine needs a rebuild (it may not but you have to think worst case scenario) how are the electrics, brakes, tires, suspension- those can mount up in a real hurry.
A T2 hood on a NA is meaningless-unless the look floats your boat.
What does "apart on the inside" actually mean- all the parts are there and just need to be installed or "missing all the expensive stuff"?
Assume the engine needs a rebuild (it may not but you have to think worst case scenario) how are the electrics, brakes, tires, suspension- those can mount up in a real hurry.
A T2 hood on a NA is meaningless-unless the look floats your boat.
04-09-07, 08:59 PM
#4
thats pretty much perfect compression..... if you got that on all chambers on each rotor then the motors good...for now.... just be sure to baby it if you decide to get it. just because a motor shows great compression doesnt mean its not going to call it quits the next day... if you really want this car then get it. if you know what the costs are for a rebuild and are still up to the task then by all means go for it.
rotaries are not for the faint of heart my friend
rotaries are not for the faint of heart my friend
04-09-07, 09:02 PM
#5
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sounds fishy, it seems like somethings wrong with the car that hes not telling you.
he said cylinder like he doesnt know rotary but then has a tII hood. but on the other hand it idles?? did you drive it? just my opinon. hope it helps
he said cylinder like he doesnt know rotary but then has a tII hood. but on the other hand it idles?? did you drive it? just my opinon. hope it helps
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04-09-07, 09:40 PM
#9
Never believe anything the seller tells you on compression numbers, especially if they feed you BS like 120 PSI. Get him to crank it while you watch the gauge. You don't need a special gauge, a regular piston one will work fine. While it is cranking, hold down the release valve the whole time. Look at each pulse of the needle. Each pulse should be of a similar value and preferably 85+. Much less than that means the engine is getting worn out. If has been sitting for a while thats different, but it sounds like this one hasn't been.
There are directions in the tech section of www.rotaryresurrection.com, except that on the step where it says "each individual pulse should be 30-35 PSI" is wrong. It should be more like 80-90+.
There are directions in the tech section of www.rotaryresurrection.com, except that on the step where it says "each individual pulse should be 30-35 PSI" is wrong. It should be more like 80-90+.
04-09-07, 10:03 PM
#11
Make sure you are there and physically check it. I would never rely just on someone's word about something as important as that.
Another important thing is to start it when cold and see if there is any smoke.
Actually, there is a link to www.aaroncake.net in the 2nd gen FAQ about what to look for when buying a use RX-7.
Another important thing is to start it when cold and see if there is any smoke.
Actually, there is a link to www.aaroncake.net in the 2nd gen FAQ about what to look for when buying a use RX-7.
04-09-07, 10:26 PM
#14
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Pro's:
Looks like mods include hks air cleaner (afm is mounted incorrectly), Optima red top battery, slotted rotors, Tein springs on Tokico Hp's, aftermarket alloy wheels, aftermarket seats (at least the drivers seat), aftermarket steering wheel, glow gauges.
Con's:
Looks like the interior is missing several dash parts, stereo, door panels and door sills.
Personally, I think if the motor really does have good compression the car is probably worth more than that if the interior parts are selling with the car. Just the suspension w/wheels and tires is probably worth 1k.
BTW... if the pics are current, the struts, springs, rotors, and wheels all look brand new
Looks like mods include hks air cleaner (afm is mounted incorrectly), Optima red top battery, slotted rotors, Tein springs on Tokico Hp's, aftermarket alloy wheels, aftermarket seats (at least the drivers seat), aftermarket steering wheel, glow gauges.
Con's:
Looks like the interior is missing several dash parts, stereo, door panels and door sills.
Personally, I think if the motor really does have good compression the car is probably worth more than that if the interior parts are selling with the car. Just the suspension w/wheels and tires is probably worth 1k.
BTW... if the pics are current, the struts, springs, rotors, and wheels all look brand new
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