uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just started getting into autocross this year and am going to start doing some time trial road racing as well as soon as I upgrade a few suspension tid-bits. The car runs great at 120,000 miles and I've been pretty happy with how it handles and responds even with the old OEM adjusting struts and springs (which are still in decent shape, but starting to get tired. )

The only thing that I'm concered about ATM is the oil system. The only things I've done with it is replace the pan awhile ago and clean all the sludge out, and I've done a very thourough check of the system. Everything is in good shape and I only had one very small leak on the big bolt on the bottom of the oil cooler (I'm pretty sure the oil cooler's thermostat is located there, correct?) The drain pan is also leaking very slightly at the rear, but I tightened it up a bit and it seems to be much better. I also run premix and have a completely blocked-off OMP system.

So here's what I plan to do:

- Install an e-shaft oil bypass pellet from Speed Machine
- Switch from 10w30 dino oil to 20w50 Royal Purple synthetic
- Possibly replace thermostat in oil cooler with bypass (I haven't seen much info on this though.)

I have also considered installing an oil pan baffle, but our course designers don't use elements like carosels that can lead to starvation. My oil pressures are also spot-on. At idle I'm see ~30psi, and when I reach redline I'm a little over the 60psi mark and it never has a point were it falters, so I don't think the baffle will be too important at this stage.

So, anything else I should be thinking of? So far my list is pretty simple and the installs shouldn't take more then a couple of hours as long as that front e-shaft bolt isn't too stuborn (the last couple of engines I've pulled have proven it to be more difficult then the flywheel nut IMO.) When removing it I need to have the clutch held in as well to prevent needle bearing damage too, correct?

Oh yeah, can anyone fill me in on that oil cooler thermostat too? I'd like to know if it's wise to bypass or if it should just be left alone. I know the e-shaft pellet is a wise investment because it's failure can lead to rotor oil starvation.

RETed

Throw the oil pan baffle (i.e. Racing Beat) in there.
It does help.

Also install a "street" upgrade oil pressure regulator - the 80 psi to 85psi one, from Racing Beat also.


-Ted

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Get an oil temp gauge

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I saw those the other day while browsing through their catalog. That's the piece that goes in the front cover right next to the oil pump, correct? Is there any rotary voodoo required to replace it while I have the pan out?

So I'll add the baffle and pressure regulator to my list of things to do next oil change (since I already blew a ton on new rear brake and bearing components.)

I was wondering about a temperature guage too. I guess I'll have to add one of RB's adaptors to my list as well. Would you also recommend an oil pressure guage as well? The stock one seems to be a little slow to give feedback.

adrock3217

It couldn't hurt. But, with a clean sensor and uncut wire..the factory gauge should be just fine.

deadRX7Conv

As mentioned already, more PSI/baffle/temp gauges are a must. Oil pressure guage would be nice but not needed.

Yank or shim the e-shaft themopellet.

I wouldn't bother touching the oil cooler thermostat. If your oil temp(via aftermarket gauge) is too high, you'll need a bigger oil cooler.
I also wouldn't jump to the thickest oil. Thick oil is a bandaid for improper cooling. If RoyalPurple is your choice, then use their 30 or 40wt oils, or one of their racing oils.

Other options are a larger oil pan(pineappleracing), external sump(remotely mounted single or double oil filter using '1 or 2' 1-2 quart oil filters), an oil accumulator(accusump), T2 oil pump.........

Rx-heven has a parts buildup of an aftermarket oil cooler system. He never did post the results with it in his thread. The oil temp guage will verify very quickly whether you'll want to dump the stock cooler for an aftermarket larger one.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

When switching out the thermal pellet, is it ok to leave the clutch engaged just to keep the engine from spinng while cracking the front bolt, then wedging the clutch down before loosening it any further?

Otherwise the only thing I can think of that would work well is a large strap wrench on the pulley.

deadRX7Conv

Engine compression(or starter engagement with a breaker bar for those tough to loosen bolts) should be enough. Just keep the clutch down and be SAFE.

From what I understand, its the actual pulley removal movement that'll cause the issue. I don't think that just "cracking it" will cause any issues. But, why be sorry?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ah, I suppose. Won't engaging the start make it tighten since the engine rotates counter-clockwise though?

sar

iTrader: (1)

Um, 20w50 is the factory recomended oil weight for heat removal: he is racing, and the 10 day lookout for st paul is all above 80 degree highs.

The only advantage of using a lighter weight oil would be the chance at very slightly increased power and efficiency, I'd rather have the increased cooling and lubrication.

Other than that, I agree completely with the baffle, I get a low oil alarm coming out of left hand turns. I haven't done any of this stuff you're talking about for my autocrossing and track days though - I've turned out fine. You might also want to stiffen the suspension some, the less body roll, the less oil slides away from the pickup.

O, and I'm at 176,000 miles, but my front AAS shocks were shot to death (I didn't realize it until I took them out though. The rears were fine.

deadRX7Conv

Oil flow is a coolant. Thick oil doesn't flow well. More oil flow equal better cooling from the oil. Thick oil is a bandaid for improper oil temperature control.

**** the owners manual. Good luck finding obsolete SG, SJ, or SH oils.
It's also 15-20 years old. New oils are that much better. And, the owners manual is not too proactive concerning all the mods out there, is it?

Urizen, pop your hood and watch your engine while someone starts it. Which way does the engine turn? If you hold the bolt still and the engine turns in one direction, the bolt goes the other way.