Oil primer project
#1
Oil primer project
With the -17F temperature at 6am this morning when I needed to go to work, my '7 sounded like someone threw gravel into the combustion chambers. Yeah, I know I need to change the 20W50 motor oil to a winter grade, but this was still just unreal how little oil was where it needed to be. I pulled my leading plugs and poured a little two stroke oil in and it fired right up, but I got to thinking about how useful it might be to piggyback onto the OMP system to lube the motor up when it's being stubborn. This could be useful for motors with low compression, when it's really frackin' cold, leaky injectors... There may be other uses, too.
So, my question to you guys is: How? What ways can you think of to implement this concept? The idea is to inject anywhere from .5 to 3 ounces of two stroke oil into each chamber to lube it up and make the seals do their job better for startup. It sounds simple enough, just tee in a feed line to one OMP injector per rotor, use some sort of valve, and some sort of pump. What I'm really curious to see is how creative and how cheap could this be done? I'm rebuilding a motor right now and I would like to install such a system while I'm at it. I'd be happy to post results and maybe even a writeup, of course.
So, my question to you guys is: How? What ways can you think of to implement this concept? The idea is to inject anywhere from .5 to 3 ounces of two stroke oil into each chamber to lube it up and make the seals do their job better for startup. It sounds simple enough, just tee in a feed line to one OMP injector per rotor, use some sort of valve, and some sort of pump. What I'm really curious to see is how creative and how cheap could this be done? I'm rebuilding a motor right now and I would like to install such a system while I'm at it. I'd be happy to post results and maybe even a writeup, of course.
#2
Step 1: Replace the grease in your crankcase with the recommended 10W-30 for winter operation.
Step 2: Finish the rebuild.
Step 2.5: Install rebuilt motor.
Step 3: Make sure your fuel cut switch works.
Step 4: Don't bother dinking about with oil injection stuff, because you won't need it. A FC, with decent injectors, the proper oil, and good compression will start just fine in the extreme cold.
-=Russ=-
Step 2: Finish the rebuild.
Step 2.5: Install rebuilt motor.
Step 3: Make sure your fuel cut switch works.
Step 4: Don't bother dinking about with oil injection stuff, because you won't need it. A FC, with decent injectors, the proper oil, and good compression will start just fine in the extreme cold.
-=Russ=-
#3
Engine, Not Motor
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You could modify the sub zero resevoir to do this rather easily, but there's no need.
Just put the proper grade oil in your car for the weather. 20W50 at that temp is basically solid.
Just put the proper grade oil in your car for the weather. 20W50 at that temp is basically solid.
#4
I know that would solve my problem, but like I said this could have other uses. It should be fairly simple to make a basic system to achieve this, it might help some people get another several thousand miles out of their tired motors while they save for a swap, rebuild, or God forbid something other than an RX-7 :P I would just like to explore this for other peoples' benefit, plus if some people try it and like it I can say "There's my idea at work."
So we have two 'nays', is there anyone who thinks this could be useful to a few people?
So we have two 'nays', is there anyone who thinks this could be useful to a few people?
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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As I mentioned, you can just use the stock sub zero tank and pump. Just wire it to activate during cranking. It's crude, but achieves what you want. If you are good with electronics you can make a little R/C timer circuit which only runs it for a second or two.
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