Oil pressure sender?
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Oil pressure sender?
So my oil pressure gauge is not showing any reading in my 1988 Mazda RX7 Convertible, just wondering if this could be the oil pressure sender/sensor? If it is, how do you change it out? and how involved it is, how easy? Thanks for any info.
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I'm not sure if I was clear, about my oil pressure readings, but the gauge is reading zero, which doesn't make since because my engine run really good. An oil pump failure doesn't make since at all, so I'm pretty confident that it isn't that.
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There is a very very small wire clip towards the end of the plastic plug that goes around most of the rectangular plug but not quite all the way around. This needs to be removed first and the plug slides off with ease. To remove the wire clip you needs an ice pick or something extremely slender to begin to pry it off. Once you can get some space between the plug and the wire clip it becomes easier to remove. I have a blade type device that is much like a feeler gauge but much more stiff and it works admirably well.
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Well I checked to see if the oil pressure sender was connected and it is. I took it off to check it out, seemed clean but I did some cleaning anyways, but the other problem is that it's a pain in the *** to to do, since that area is really cramped to work in. Any tips in making it easier to clean the wiring for the oil pressure sender? Also in case my oil pressure sender is bad which I think it is since I got a little pressure reading to come up at start up, like 20 psi, is there an easy way to remove the oil pressure sender? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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Best way to clean it is with a aerosol can of electrical contact cleaner.
As far as removing the sender you can disconnect the vapor canister hose and push it out of the way. Disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet hoses and gently bend the metal lines upwards. Then remove T2 ignition wire and plug. At that point you have the option of using a open end wrench which if I remember it is a 14MM but don't hold me to that since it has been a while since I replaced one. Or you can get onto the bell portion of the sender unit with a pair of channel locks and remove it that way.
As far as removing the sender you can disconnect the vapor canister hose and push it out of the way. Disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet hoses and gently bend the metal lines upwards. Then remove T2 ignition wire and plug. At that point you have the option of using a open end wrench which if I remember it is a 14MM but don't hold me to that since it has been a while since I replaced one. Or you can get onto the bell portion of the sender unit with a pair of channel locks and remove it that way.
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At that point you have the option of using a open end wrench which if I remember it is a 14MM but don't hold me to that since it has been a while since I replaced one. Or you can get onto the bell portion of the sender unit with a pair of channel locks and remove it that way.
Using channel locks on the sending unit body sounds like a horrible idea...there's a diaphragm in there and even slightly deforming the housing is going to screw things up.
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Your reading too much into this!
I gave options for "Removing" it. The harder way to remove is to use the wrench because of the limited amount of space that you have to turn the wrench. Using the channel lock pliers allows you to get a bigger bite and turn it more at one time than the wrench. Installing it you tighten it as much as you can by hand then finish the job with the wrench. Now do you understand?
I gave options for "Removing" it. The harder way to remove is to use the wrench because of the limited amount of space that you have to turn the wrench. Using the channel lock pliers allows you to get a bigger bite and turn it more at one time than the wrench. Installing it you tighten it as much as you can by hand then finish the job with the wrench. Now do you understand?
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