gmpaul

Ok I have an update from the mechanic supposedly its the crank pulley basically the bolt and spring pin came undone and was pussing up against the fan thats what he said anyways. I can understand that being the reason for it leaking oil cause the bolt to the crank came undone but Im still having a hard time understanding how it happened if anyone wants to give some insight thats be great.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

In my (limited) experience, the front hub bolt is a bitch to remove, so I can't imagine how it just fell out on it's own.

gmpaul

see thats what I was thinking I know rotary evolution asked me if my front main crank pulley was loose but i checked it before i sent it to the mechanic so i dont understand how that bolt just falls out ????? and the spring pin behind the bolt was out too????? I have a feeling this mechanic found the problem is not telling me and is now charging me for 4 hours of labor and 2 new parts loooool but whatever as long as its fixed.....

MaliciousMD

iTrader: (1)

The thermal pellet and retaining spring are behind the front hub bolt. If the thermal pellet was bad, or the spring was not there, that could explain zero oil pressure. It would not explain why your engine is not toast already. Thermal pellet bypasses oil through the eccentric shaft when warmed up to your eccentric shaft bearings, stationary gears, oil control rings, etc. There's a copper crush washer and O-Ring on the front hub bolt that seal all of this up.

+1 on the front hub bolt being kind of a PITA to remove, but I also do not see how it would just get loose out of nowhere. You'd have to pull the fan shroud and stock fan/clutch out to get access to the front hub bolt to remove or loosen it. I could see it taking 1-2 hours if you haven't done it before, and take a few smoke breaks inbetween...

Bigger question is did your mechanic pull out the front hub bolt completely? Was it done in a fashion the rear torrington bearing did not slip out of place?

gmpaul

The mechanic called back and told me this.....
Eccentric Shaft bypass valve is bent I told him to unbend it is it okay to do that or am i going to need another one? another one costs over 150 from the dealership and i don't have that kind of cash....need a response by the end of today or hes just going to unbend it and put it back in the bolt then in to the engine. He says because it has to do with the oil flow could seize engine up?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Your mechanic sounds like he has a decent idea what he is doing. I'd rather replace with a new one than bend it back. You can get a replacement thermostat or a solid bypass for much less than $150 at Mazdatrix.

Sounds like you need part #11 and #12 OR the bypass plug listed between 11/12.
Front Engine Parts, Counterweights, Pulleys

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Aluminum replacement is like 8 bucks.

Front Engine Parts, Counterweights, Pulleys

Edit: Hey, you beat me to it!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i have seen it happen, sometimes the copper washer slips out of place tightening the bolts down and other times the bolt simply isn't tightened enough.

i always use blue loctite on the front hub bolt. cinch it down by hand before tightening it with the impact/torque wrench to help eliminate the possibility of the sealing washer slipping out of place.

i have TONS of stock thermal pellets and also some bypass aluminum ones like above that i machined for those who want to eliminate it. $150 is rediculous and i didn't even realize mazda charged that much for them...

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

If that front hub bolt came loose here is to hoping the torrington bearing didnt drop down(probably did).

gmpaul

thanks for all your guys input really appreciate it. I found a thermal eccentric pellet for 65 from mazda dealership I realize I could get it cheaper but need it done now and mazda has the part readily available the mechanic price quote for the pat was all of the parts included for the eccentric thermal shaft bypass I only ordered the pellet which should suffice. If it weren't for you guys and me relaying the information to the mechanic this could have been a 600$ misdiagnosis as he tried to troubleshoot the problem glad I had your guyd help especially rotary evolution who was dead on when it came to the diagnostic thanks for the heads up
! on the crank pulley in page 2 post.