Will a bad oil pressure sensor make the car run funny?

I did a diagnostic and it comes up with the code for the atmosheric pressure sensor.Or is there a problem with the car that makes it appear bad?

Plus I have an exhaust leak near the manifold?

What kind of problems other than the 5 & 6 port operation will it have because of this?

Thanks again
Danny

 

Oil or Atmosheric?????

Atmospheric sensor is in the passengers foot well. Far fwd and up to the right.

Atmospheric pressure sensor defaults to close to sealevel *I think*. I doubt you'd know it if you didn't see the code, whichever code it was.

Leak at the exaust manifold causing aux ports not to work. Not likely. It would have to be MASSIVE to cause the aux to fail.

 

No, all it does is send a signal to the oil pressure gauge. Why do you think it's bad?

 

When I disconnect the wire the car starts to bog and die!

I pulled the codes and it came up with code 09.(atmospheric pressure sensor.

And after trying to start it comes up with code 02.(air flow meter)

 

Then whatever you're disconnecting is not the oil pressure sender! Where exactly is this sensor?

 

right below the oil filter.

Car got flooded and the oil now smells like gas.Oil gauge is reading low.Have to do an oil change.Ran compression check: 3 even bounces at over 35 psi with button pushed in and over 100 psi button released.Car just won't run right.SOME ONE PLEASE HELLLP!There is no air leaks(checked)and there is a little exhaust leak(tightened a bit).Should I just go ahead and replace the afm and atmospheric pressure sensor?Those are expensive parts!

It's starts then immediately dies until warmed up.Then when you try to drive it it bucks and then dies.Like it's out of gas.I'll change the oil and put more gas in it to see if it will run but I doubt it.

Btw I just put this engine in!

Thanks
Danny

 

i had almost the same driving problem you have and it turns out that it was my OMP. Code 27. This is one thing that can put the car in limp mode if it goes bad.

 

You probably have an s5 with the electronic omp.

I have an s4 with a mechanical omp.

Plus I replaced it with a working unit.

 

In the FSM where it tells you how to read the codes, it also tells you what to check for each code. Do what the FSM says for those codes before you spend any money.

Are you sure it's the oil pressure sensor wire you're pulling? There is no way it can affect the engine's operation unless someone's seriously screwed with something...

 

Yeah I pulled the codes:

What I got was code 02 and code 09.

Car may be in limp mode because it detects low oil pressure but discovered theres gas in the oil.Causing low oil pressure.
My problems started when it got flooded,then I got it restarted and I guess when the gas got into oil it lost it's viscosity.

 

Oh....doggies. The oil pressure is not look at by the ECU in any way. Try again.

There's a free fsm online for....free. And it has the wiring schematics to verify that.

 

Just to reinforce that, the oil pressure sender is not connected to the ECU in any way, shape or form. It goes straight to the gauge, nowhere else.

Read FSM pages 4A-23 and 4A-27 to check out those two codes.

 

OOOps again. Sorry...no LIMP MODE for a series four. See the free fsm online for .......free.

 

Well one of my grounds,the one with the resister got caught up in the oil filter and made the oil pressure max out.This makes me believe it doesn't go directly to the gauge.Car will run fine if I ground the sender wire to the engine but still has it's quirks.Some one please explain that?Car was made in july of 87 as an 88 gtu.
They improved some of the engine management system half way through 1987.Like going from low to high imp. injectors.God knows what else they did.

This car has me puzzled along with others I guess.I'll just go to the boneyard and get a couple of parts and change the oil and see what that does.

Thanks
Danny

 

bump

 

Look on page 50-40 of the FSM (meters and warning system wiring diagram). You wire goes from the gauge to the engine bay, where it splits and goes to the sensor and a condensor, which are both then grounded. It is not connected to the ECU at all.

The wire in question is yellow with a red stripe right?

Have you checked the AFM to see why it's throwing a code? A faulty AFM will cause the engine to stop running.
The only change was from low-impedance injectors and resistor pack to high-impedance injectors. No changes were made to the engine management system itself.

 

if i took an ECU from a 87 before june TII and swapped it into my 88 TII when i was trying to fix my cold start problem.Will that work without blowing my ECU or injectors because now my car says its redlining at 5800rpms when before the swap it redlined right EXACTLY at 7k

 

How does your car "say" it's redlining at 5800rpm? The redline is just a mark on the tach. Are you talking about the redline buzzer? That has nothing to do with the ECU; it's built into the tach itself.

 

well my coolant is full. my oil is full and just changed about 20 miles ago. before i swapped ECU's it redlined at 7k after the swap...5800 give or take a few 100rpms. could this not be caused by bad grounding?

 

Update on the atmospheric pressure sensor: It was unplugged.Plugged it back in.Replaced the afm,it looks like it's toast.Still gotta change the oil and add gas.I will update later.

Thanks
Danny

 

Ok did the oil change and swapped oil sending unit.Oil pressure went up to about 100 then dropped to @ the 0 mark.What's up with that?

Still couldn't get a decent idle.Unplugged the bac valve and that didn't change anything,still ran the same huntng for an idle.Should I replace it?

Questions about the tps.I get only one light on the light test.Does this mean my tps is bad?

Just to let you you know most of the electrical parts have sat for like 2 years in the hatch.

 

BUMP

 

bumpity