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Oil leak located!

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Old 12-20-12, 01:38 PM
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S5 GXL NA - S5 TII

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Thumbs up Oil leak located!

I knew my car was leaking oil for the longest time but I finally found where it was coming from. It's leaking from the oil filter stand so I probably need to replace the 2 o rings in there. Also, when my car backfires, It seems to shoot out a spurt of oil straight onto the ground from under the car so there may be another oil leak than just from the stand. I have three questions:

1. What size o-rings do I need for the oil filter stand

2. Where are common areas in S5 FCs that leak oil

3. What area/part would shoot oil straight out on the ground if it were cracked or loose
Old 12-20-12, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenshin XI
I knew my car was leaking oil for the longest time but I finally found where it was coming from. It's leaking from the oil filter stand so I probably need to replace the 2 o rings in there. Also, when my car backfires, It seems to shoot out a spurt of oil straight onto the ground from under the car so there may be another oil leak than just from the stand. I have three questions:

1. What size o-rings do I need for the oil filter stand

2. Where are common areas in S5 FCs that leak oil

3. What area/part would shoot oil straight out on the ground if it were cracked or loose
What ever fits in the groove and not to bulky it doesn't take much to seal something like that , I would be getting the backfire looked at . Backfire Bad . Gerald m.
Old 12-20-12, 01:47 PM
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Not sure on oring size , you could take them out and find ones the same size at an autozone or the like, or do a search on here " oil pedestal oring size"

As for the leaks.

1. Oil pan
2. Oil cooler lines/Oil cooler
3. Omp/omp lines
4. Front housing on engine(that's where the oil pump is)

As for the backfire

1. Check/redo your timing and restab your dizzy
2. Check/adjust your tps, and or replace it
3. Check your spark plugs (possibly replace them if they're fouled out; black this will cause the plugs to make less spark.) ,
4. make sure all the spark plugs/wires are connected properly to the correlating coils (if they're connected wrong; backwards that'll cause issues)

Rotary >Pistons
Old 12-20-12, 02:21 PM
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S5 GXL NA - S5 TII

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My FC only backfires when I rev it up between about 7800-9000 rpms or shift at high rpms. But anyway thanks for the information. Ill be sure to check everything out and fix/replace after Im not sick.

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Rotary >>> All
Old 12-20-12, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenshin XI
My FC only backfires when I rev it up between about 7800-9000 rpms or shift at high rpms.
LOL

Why are you even asking this dude? I thought you were set and had everything all figured out, no?

Download an FSM from the FAQ. Pull off the pedestal, take an old o-ring and drive your moms car the the auto parts store, or order some from the dealer.
Old 12-20-12, 04:24 PM
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oil filter pedestal o-rings: As568a Dash Number 114

you can find them at most hardware stores, nitrile or viton work just fine. i would avoid regular Buna materials since it is not oil resistant. i have gobs of them if you can't find them.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-20-12 at 04:26 PM.
Old 12-20-12, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
oil filter pedestal o-rings: As568a Dash Number 114

you can find them at most hardware stores, nitrile or viton work just fine. i would avoid regular Buna materials since it is not oil resistant. i have gobs of them if you can't find them.
Didn't know all rubber wasn't oil resistant, good info.

As far as backfiring at high rpms, that will happen rx7s they run very hot exhaust temps and run very rich.

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Old 12-20-12, 05:15 PM
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Buna-N, or nitrile will absorb some oil and will lose its elasticity over time. Viton absorbs less than 1% oil and fuel from my own testing, is good to 400F and remains elastic even after thousands of hours of heat cycling and exposure to oil and fuel. guess which i prefer.

Nitrile will work but it is the bare basic material that can do the job. many times i pull out viton seals from engines with thousands of miles on them and they snap back to original shape as if to say to me "what? is that all you got!".

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-20-12 at 05:17 PM.
Old 12-22-12, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
Didn't know all rubber wasn't oil resistant, good info.

As far as backfiring at high rpms, that will happen rx7s they run very hot exhaust temps and run very rich.

Rotary >Pistons
Im not mentioning it as a problem. I love when it backfires
Old 01-20-13, 11:34 AM
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My o rings finally came in. Am I able to replace them without draining the oil out?
Old 01-20-13, 12:00 PM
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You do not need to drain the oil. You'll lose anything that's in the filter, but how much do you really expect to stay trapped in it anyways, being that it's upside down. Just remove the filter, remove the pedestal, replace o-rings, replace filter, check oil level.

Your car is backfiring? As in there's flames coming out of the intake?! That's not good...
Old 01-20-13, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AGreen
You do not need to drain the oil. You'll lose anything that's in the filter, but how much do you really expect to stay trapped in it anyways, being that it's upside down. Just remove the filter, remove the pedestal, replace o-rings, replace filter, check oil level.

Your car is backfiring? As in there's flames coming out of the intake?! That's not good...
Alright thanks. Saves time and about the backfiring, i dont think flames actually come out of the exhaust. It just pops loudly. On occasion my friend may see a faint flame when I release the accelerator at the ends of the exhausts but Id say it pretty much stays in the muffler/resonator part of it. I like backfiring noise at high rpms especially shifting that high which sounds like a rifle. I probably do have to change my spark plugs and other minor things so I dont have a concern for the backfiring.
Old 01-20-13, 05:23 PM
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That's called afterburn if it's coming out of the exhaust. Biiiig difference.
Old 01-20-13, 07:57 PM
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You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made. Clean the surfaces with soapy water too. Carb or brake cleaner would be better if you have it. If you do replace them I'd recommend black RTV on the new ones as well. Don't over tighten the bolts since its aluminum.

The oil bursting from the bottom of the engine could be the lower dowel. Could be cracked. Or it has a bad/missing o ring.
Old 01-20-13, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NCross
You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made.
Why drag RTV into it?
O-rings in good condition will seal fine all by themselves.
Old 01-25-13, 08:18 PM
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I took apart the pedestal and the two top o rings were warped, sunk into the holes and shaped like a pringle chip. I replaced them with the viton o rings and it seems to have sealed pretty well. That part is fixed, now onto the oil pan or in that general area where the 2nd leak is coming from.
Old 01-26-13, 01:36 AM
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Those are easy fixes bro, its always best to replace everything you can that wears to the point where you've replaced every wearable part, including your apex seals.

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Old 02-03-13, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NCross
You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made. Clean the surfaces with soapy water too. Carb or brake cleaner would be better if you have it. If you do replace them I'd recommend black RTV on the new ones as well. Don't over tighten the bolts since its aluminum.

The oil bursting from the bottom of the engine could be the lower dowel. Could be cracked. Or it has a bad/missing o ring.
the times i saw this method done the oil passages were nearly plugged up completely.

generous? no. moderate to almost non existent? yes. if you're too cheap to pay a few bucks.
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