Oil leak located!
I knew my car was leaking oil for the longest time but I finally found where it was coming from. It's leaking from the oil filter stand so I probably need to replace the 2 o rings in there. Also, when my car backfires, It seems to shoot out a spurt of oil straight onto the ground from under the car so there may be another oil leak than just from the stand. I have three questions:
1. What size o-rings do I need for the oil filter stand 2. Where are common areas in S5 FCs that leak oil 3. What area/part would shoot oil straight out on the ground if it were cracked or loose |
Originally Posted by Kenshin XI
(Post 11322490)
I knew my car was leaking oil for the longest time but I finally found where it was coming from. It's leaking from the oil filter stand so I probably need to replace the 2 o rings in there. Also, when my car backfires, It seems to shoot out a spurt of oil straight onto the ground from under the car so there may be another oil leak than just from the stand. I have three questions:
1. What size o-rings do I need for the oil filter stand 2. Where are common areas in S5 FCs that leak oil 3. What area/part would shoot oil straight out on the ground if it were cracked or loose |
Not sure on oring size , you could take them out and find ones the same size at an autozone or the like, or do a search on here " oil pedestal oring size"
As for the leaks. 1. Oil pan 2. Oil cooler lines/Oil cooler 3. Omp/omp lines 4. Front housing on engine(that's where the oil pump is) As for the backfire 1. Check/redo your timing and restab your dizzy 2. Check/adjust your tps, and or replace it 3. Check your spark plugs (possibly replace them if they're fouled out; black this will cause the plugs to make less spark.) , 4. make sure all the spark plugs/wires are connected properly to the correlating coils (if they're connected wrong; backwards that'll cause issues) Rotary >Pistons |
My FC only backfires when I rev it up between about 7800-9000 rpms or shift at high rpms. But anyway thanks for the information. Ill be sure to check everything out and fix/replace after Im not sick.
Rotary >Pistons |
Originally Posted by Kenshin XI
(Post 11322533)
My FC only backfires when I rev it up between about 7800-9000 rpms or shift at high rpms.
Why are you even asking this dude? I thought you were set and had everything all figured out, no? Download an FSM from the FAQ. Pull off the pedestal, take an old o-ring and drive your moms car the the auto parts store, or order some from the dealer. |
oil filter pedestal o-rings: As568a Dash Number 114
you can find them at most hardware stores, nitrile or viton work just fine. i would avoid regular Buna materials since it is not oil resistant. i have gobs of them if you can't find them. |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11322634)
oil filter pedestal o-rings: As568a Dash Number 114
you can find them at most hardware stores, nitrile or viton work just fine. i would avoid regular Buna materials since it is not oil resistant. i have gobs of them if you can't find them. As far as backfiring at high rpms, that will happen rx7s they run very hot exhaust temps and run very rich. Rotary >Pistons |
Buna-N, or nitrile will absorb some oil and will lose its elasticity over time. Viton absorbs less than 1% oil and fuel from my own testing, is good to 400F and remains elastic even after thousands of hours of heat cycling and exposure to oil and fuel. guess which i prefer.
Nitrile will work but it is the bare basic material that can do the job. many times i pull out viton seals from engines with thousands of miles on them and they snap back to original shape as if to say to me "what? is that all you got!". |
Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
(Post 11322652)
Didn't know all rubber wasn't oil resistant, good info.
As far as backfiring at high rpms, that will happen rx7s they run very hot exhaust temps and run very rich. Rotary >Pistons |
My o rings finally came in. Am I able to replace them without draining the oil out?
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You do not need to drain the oil. You'll lose anything that's in the filter, but how much do you really expect to stay trapped in it anyways, being that it's upside down. Just remove the filter, remove the pedestal, replace o-rings, replace filter, check oil level.
Your car is backfiring? As in there's flames coming out of the intake?! That's not good... |
Originally Posted by AGreen
(Post 11350620)
You do not need to drain the oil. You'll lose anything that's in the filter, but how much do you really expect to stay trapped in it anyways, being that it's upside down. Just remove the filter, remove the pedestal, replace o-rings, replace filter, check oil level.
Your car is backfiring? As in there's flames coming out of the intake?! That's not good... |
That's called afterburn if it's coming out of the exhaust. Biiiig difference.
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You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made. Clean the surfaces with soapy water too. Carb or brake cleaner would be better if you have it. If you do replace them I'd recommend black RTV on the new ones as well. Don't over tighten the bolts since its aluminum.
The oil bursting from the bottom of the engine could be the lower dowel. Could be cracked. Or it has a bad/missing o ring. |
Originally Posted by NCross
(Post 11350985)
You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made.
O-rings in good condition will seal fine all by themselves. |
I took apart the pedestal and the two top o rings were warped, sunk into the holes and shaped like a pringle chip. I replaced them with the viton o rings and it seems to have sealed pretty well. That part is fixed, now onto the oil pan or in that general area where the 2nd leak is coming from.
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Those are easy fixes bro, its always best to replace everything you can that wears to the point where you've replaced every wearable part, including your apex seals.
Rotary >Pistons |
Originally Posted by NCross
(Post 11350985)
You don't have to replace the o rings if they're not cracked. Clean them with soapy water and apply a generous layer of black RTV to them and all surfaces of the pedestal where contact is made. Clean the surfaces with soapy water too. Carb or brake cleaner would be better if you have it. If you do replace them I'd recommend black RTV on the new ones as well. Don't over tighten the bolts since its aluminum.
The oil bursting from the bottom of the engine could be the lower dowel. Could be cracked. Or it has a bad/missing o ring. generous? no. moderate to almost non existent? yes. if you're too cheap to pay a few bucks. |
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