What is the best oil for one 13bT S4
of course 20w50

????

 

i use castrol 20w50 personaly but everyone has their preferences.

 

I use Mobile1 15w50. Its amazing this thread hasnt been closed yet.

 

where you are it is probably tropical climate and doesn't get cold very often if at all, am I right? if so use anything 20w50. There are going to be tons of people say that synthetic is good and others will say it's not so good etc... I use castrol 20w50 and it's always worked fine for me.

 

yeah is tropical where i lived....

castrol gtx? 20w50?

 

That's what I use.Castrol GTX 20W/50

 

I'm using royal purple 20w50 in the summer.

.... I agree with BklynRX7

 

ajjaja, well in the faq dont have one polls of votations about "your oil"

in this post the advantage have the castrol gtx

 

Before everybody jumps on the Castrol GTX bandwagon, it has one of the higher ash content for regular oil. Ash is what causes sludge and carbon . It's what's left behind when burned. Believe it or not Exxon High Performance 20W50 and Unocal 20W50 has a low ash content. Synthetics is the best way to go since there are no ash content in them and pour point is very high. A 20W50 oil flows much like a 10W30 oil when cold so it means oil will flow to parts faster.
I've used Torco 20W50 for a few years now since removing the OMP.
You guys running regular 20W50 oils must wait until the oil warms up a bit before driving off.

 

This can go on forever...

A synthetic may have a low ash value but most synthetics are not designed to burn and we all know a rotary is designed to burn *some* oil.

It all comes down to personal preference. IMHO oil change frequency is the MOST important factor and not necessarily the oil brand/type you use.

My preference is castrol 20W50 for the summer and castrol 10W30 for winter - dino oil for me.

I'm sure you can even use cheapy oil without consequence as long as you change it frequently.

 

10W-40 for all season use.

Believe it or not, 10W-40 has LESS viscosity index improvers than most 10W-30 oils. The VI improvers are what contribute to engine deposit buildup.

 

So 20w-50 is best oil for summer? Im still learning all this stuff.

 

I wouldn't go with a 20W-50 unless you had the vehicle on a race track in death valley. Such a high viscosity isn't needed and introduces parasitic losses that affect your power and fuel economy.

The newest generation rotary on the RX8 calls for a 5w-20 oil. This is mainly due to need to meet CAFE standards but oil analysis on this oil in these rotaries is showing similar or less wear than higher weight oils. I wouldn't use 5W-20 in our vehicles due to the fact that we run at lower oil pressures but there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a 10w-40, 5W-40, or 0W-40 year round-yes, that includes summer.

 

I use 20w50 all day long, I don't know what your talking about. Now to the guy from canada that said is he supposed to use this weight oil when summer? It all depends on how hot it gets there in the summer time. Here it gets about anywhere from 95 to 110 on a regular basis and is only "winter" here about 1 month out of the year and it only dips into the 30's about 2 or 3 times a year. I think I'm going to start putting in synthetic oil though now that the mop is blocked off and I'm premixing. This way all the internels will get good synthetic treatment I don't know if it's a good thing or not but it's just my theory that synthetic is better, not for burning maybe (I have read an article however that states that synthetics are now made to burn and made to do so very cleanly) however since I don't have to worry about it going onto my rotor faces and burning off I will use synthetic for my oil changes from now on.

oh yeah one more thing to the guy that was asking about what oil in the summer. First thing to remember is that oil is lubricant and what do you think it does when hot or cold? Well when hot it is going to brake down and become very very thin thus making the lubricant less efficiant and some times so thin it doesn't do much of anything at all. SO in the summer you want something thicker that won't brake down. In the winder it is very cold so lubricant (especially heavy weight oils) will become to thick, kind of the consistancy of surip (sp) witch in return doesn't make a good lubricant either so a thiner oil is required.

 

Castrol 20w50 in the car and Castrol 5w20 in the truck.

 

Royal Purple 10-30 all year here in texas
NAPA has it for 4.99 a quart, cheaper than M1 and in my opinion much better.

 

Caster oil....er....uh.....Castrol GTX 20-50 that's the stuff been racing with it since '86

 

i use castrol 20w50 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter.....

 

Straight from Mazda


5w30 at 32 degrees and below
10w30 at 80 degrees to 10 below 0
10w40-10w50 from 10 below 0 to 130+
20w40-20w50 from 20 to 130+

Note, these temps are farenheit.

I personally use 20w50 Castrol all year round. I don't drive much in cold weather and also have oil dilution problems, so I use thicker oil.

 

anyone else using torco syn with the oil pump? just curious

 

There's no harm in using synthetics with OMP. It just leaves some sticky residue in the housing but much less carbon than regular oil.
I use TORCO 20W50 .

 

I just use whatever super cheap 20w-50 oil I can find that meets API standards. Oh yes, that is 20w-50 year round, although I've been thinking about doing another weight for winter. Oh well, maybe next year.

 

Why does no one use 10w-40? According to Mazda, thats the one that works for almost all temperatures.

 

gah double post

 

I alwayys used 10W-40 but I was told that this oil is used for extreme racing and since i dont race I was recommeneded to use 10w-30.