Oil cooler lines, replace ?
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Oil cooler lines, replace ?
Hi guys, I have a bone stock 90 vert. The oil cooler lines are factory originals, no leaks no issues.
Should these be replaced just due to age (87k miles on car) or best leave them be?
Should these be replaced just due to age (87k miles on car) or best leave them be?
#2
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
It can't hurt to replace them and their corresponding crush washers. However, I personally do not replace mine until I see signs of degradation. The oil cooler lines hold up for a long time. I've never personally had one completely fail. I've had a few start to get damp and I replaced the sets right away. The original oil cooler lines are quite expensive. In the neighborhood of about $400 for both lines from Mazda.
#3
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
If you've already cleaned them up really good, and after driving for a bit there's zero evidence of any oil seepage/dampness/weeping anywhere, just leave them be. Like the other guy said, they last a long time and they rarely fail catastrophically by busting open - more likely the crimped on hose fitting loosens up, and oil starts seeping out.
As for replacement lines, Racing Beat, Mazdatrix and a few others sell SS braided line sets to replace the stock lines for less than what you'll pay for the OEM Mazda parts.
As for replacement lines, Racing Beat, Mazdatrix and a few others sell SS braided line sets to replace the stock lines for less than what you'll pay for the OEM Mazda parts.
#5
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
If they're leaking, replace them. If not, let it be.
My car's original lines were fine and dandy at 99k when I began the 20B conversion. The bulk of the cost in converting to -10AN lines is in the adapters, mainly the special 90 degree one to clear the frame rail at the oil cooler. This is the route the Mazdatrix kit goes. Personally, $50 for an adapter fitting seems like a big investment when one could just move the oil cooler over about 1" with some simple flat brackets. That would create enough clearance to use a generic adapter and 90 degree hose end. Another option is a 18mm to -10AN banjo adapter. A quick check on ebay found them for $15-25. Shops like Jegs or Summit Racing would probably be similar in price.
As for hoses, any -10AN hose will do just fine. I have Jegs Push-loc hose on my car since it was easy to work with and relatively cheap. Aaron Cake used a similar type of hose on the Cosmo.
My car's original lines were fine and dandy at 99k when I began the 20B conversion. The bulk of the cost in converting to -10AN lines is in the adapters, mainly the special 90 degree one to clear the frame rail at the oil cooler. This is the route the Mazdatrix kit goes. Personally, $50 for an adapter fitting seems like a big investment when one could just move the oil cooler over about 1" with some simple flat brackets. That would create enough clearance to use a generic adapter and 90 degree hose end. Another option is a 18mm to -10AN banjo adapter. A quick check on ebay found them for $15-25. Shops like Jegs or Summit Racing would probably be similar in price.
As for hoses, any -10AN hose will do just fine. I have Jegs Push-loc hose on my car since it was easy to work with and relatively cheap. Aaron Cake used a similar type of hose on the Cosmo.
#6
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
Where was the burst point? I would bet it was at one of the hose crimp joints rather than somewhere in the middle of a line. Usually the crimp fittings start weeping a bit before they fail catastrophically. Easy to miss the warning signs though, especially for the fittings closest to the oil cooler, where they are more difficult to clean & visually inspect periodically.
#7
Information Regurgitator
I have the Rotary performance ones on my car. They are SS braided but have fitting like the stock ones. Had them 15 years or so with no problems.
https://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fcoilcoolerlines.html
https://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fcoilcoolerlines.html
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#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Where was the burst point? I would bet it was at one of the hose crimp joints rather than somewhere in the middle of a line. Usually the crimp fittings start weeping a bit before they fail catastrophically. Easy to miss the warning signs though, especially for the fittings closest to the oil cooler, where they are more difficult to clean & visually inspect periodically.
I do agree that if the seeping were investigated after first sighting, the hoses would have been replaced preventing the problem.
#11
xXxFC3SxXx
iTrader: (8)
When I blew my motor I took advantage of the situation and replaced the lines with Racing Beat SS oil cooler lines. Oil and cooling are imperative for rotaries, I wanted piece of mind.
RB Oil Cooler Lines
RB Oil Cooler Lines