Oil Cooler Lines- Help Needed
12-28-03, 06:09 AM
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Oil Cooler Lines- Help Needed
Okay, this problem is frustrating me ALOT. I have been at this for days (yeah, well I know it shouldn't take that long, but I cannot get the bolts off because the rubber mounts for the oil cooler absorb most of my torque).
...So, I need to figure out how to do this, and after alot of researching (via search), I have come to the conclusion that the best way to remove my cooler lines for replacement would be to take them off of the engine and then remove the cooler itself to torque the banjo's off with it in a vice. Therein lies the problem...
I looked at my replacement hoses (SS braided from Cork Sport) and the longer hose looks nothing like the original hose it would be replacing. The lower hose on the cooler (the long one) goes about the length of the shorter hose, at which point it turns into a metal pipe that travels the rest of the length all the way to the rear of the engine. The replacement long hose is entirely SS braided, with no metal piping at all, and is only slightly longer than the short one, so it wouldn't be able to replace it.
...I looked at the original long hose, and it does not look like it attaches with a banjo bolt or anything when it turns into the metal pipe, it just seems like it is attached to the pipe permanently. (and the replacement SS braided is pretty short and has a hole on each end for a banjo bolt).
...Did I miss something? How do I replace the long one if it doesnt even seem to be the same hose? Can someone please provide some info? (BTW, I tried tons of stuff to get the lines off the cooler- hammering a wrench, using liquid wrench, using an extension to the wrench- even tried supporting the oil cooler with stuff, nothing works).
An image of the CorkSport set I purchased:
I could look up an image of the stock cooler lines if anyone needs, just let me know and I will look around for one.
...So, I need to figure out how to do this, and after alot of researching (via search), I have come to the conclusion that the best way to remove my cooler lines for replacement would be to take them off of the engine and then remove the cooler itself to torque the banjo's off with it in a vice. Therein lies the problem...
I looked at my replacement hoses (SS braided from Cork Sport) and the longer hose looks nothing like the original hose it would be replacing. The lower hose on the cooler (the long one) goes about the length of the shorter hose, at which point it turns into a metal pipe that travels the rest of the length all the way to the rear of the engine. The replacement long hose is entirely SS braided, with no metal piping at all, and is only slightly longer than the short one, so it wouldn't be able to replace it.
...I looked at the original long hose, and it does not look like it attaches with a banjo bolt or anything when it turns into the metal pipe, it just seems like it is attached to the pipe permanently. (and the replacement SS braided is pretty short and has a hole on each end for a banjo bolt).
...Did I miss something? How do I replace the long one if it doesnt even seem to be the same hose? Can someone please provide some info? (BTW, I tried tons of stuff to get the lines off the cooler- hammering a wrench, using liquid wrench, using an extension to the wrench- even tried supporting the oil cooler with stuff, nothing works).
An image of the CorkSport set I purchased:
I could look up an image of the stock cooler lines if anyone needs, just let me know and I will look around for one.
12-28-03, 06:21 AM
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The long one that they sold you should be approx 30 and 1/4 inches long. If it is.....it will fit. Most aftermarket hoses nix the pipe part that is in the original design. Just make sure after you route the hoses and connect them that there is no serious fouling/rubbing condition along the length of the hoses.
12-28-03, 10:16 AM
#3
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THe Corksport lines will fit perfect. The bottom line (long line) justs use a longer flex line, and no hard pipe.
Yes, you are right, un-bolting and dropping the cooler is the easiest way to get the top line off
Yes, you are right, un-bolting and dropping the cooler is the easiest way to get the top line off
12-28-03, 03:27 PM
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I do not doubt that the length of the hose is the same as the image on their website represents. But how far towards the back of the engine is that hose suppose to go? Because my original seems to go way back there, even past the spark plugs, thats way far- its like twice as far as the length provided on that hose.
...Here is an image of what it looks like... I could go take a photo if anyone likes, but for now this should suffice.
...So the question remains: am I missing something? How could the steel braided hose replacement be for this hose if the original is soooo much longer? What am I missing? I know alot of other people did this, but apparently did not run into these problems I did, so I wonder what gives. Any ideas?? I am way confused!
...Here is an image of what it looks like... I could go take a photo if anyone likes, but for now this should suffice.
...So the question remains: am I missing something? How could the steel braided hose replacement be for this hose if the original is soooo much longer? What am I missing? I know alot of other people did this, but apparently did not run into these problems I did, so I wonder what gives. Any ideas?? I am way confused!
12-28-03, 03:31 PM
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Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by SomeDude
I do not doubt that the length of the hose is the same as the image on their website represents. But how far towards the back of the engine is that hose suppose to go? Because my original seems to go way back there, even past the spark plugs, thats way far- its like twice as far as the length provided on that hose.
...So the question remains: am I missing something? How could the steel braided hose replacement be for this hose if the original is soooo much longer? What am I missing? I know alot of other people did this, but apparently did not run into these problems I did, so I wonder what gives. Any ideas?? I am way confused!
I do not doubt that the length of the hose is the same as the image on their website represents. But how far towards the back of the engine is that hose suppose to go? Because my original seems to go way back there, even past the spark plugs, thats way far- its like twice as far as the length provided on that hose.
...So the question remains: am I missing something? How could the steel braided hose replacement be for this hose if the original is soooo much longer? What am I missing? I know alot of other people did this, but apparently did not run into these problems I did, so I wonder what gives. Any ideas?? I am way confused!
The bottom line (long line) justs uses a longer flex line, and no hard pipe.
It replaces everything in blue here:
Last edited by Icemark; 12-28-03 at 03:42 PM.
12-28-03, 04:02 PM
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Those hoses will fit just fine.. it's just a b
tch to get on IMHO.
Err.. I did manage to get the top banjo bolt off... all you need is a 23mm wrench(preferably flared type or a 6 pt if there is such a thing) and put some *** to it.
tch to get on IMHO.Err.. I did manage to get the top banjo bolt off... all you need is a 23mm wrench(preferably flared type or a 6 pt if there is such a thing) and put some *** to it.
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12-28-03, 06:36 PM
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The long one that they sold you should be approx 30 and 1/4 inches long. If it is.....it will fit. Most aftermarket hoses nix the pipe part that is in the original design. Just make sure after you route the hoses and connect them that there is no serious fouling/rubbing condition along the length of the hoses.
12-28-03, 06:40 PM
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The long one that they sold you should be approx 30 and 1/4 inches long. If it is.....it will fit. Most aftermarket hoses nix the pipe part that is in the original design. Just make sure after you route the hoses and connect them that there is no serious fouling/rubbing condition along the length of the hoses.
Sometimes if I repeat things enough.......the words will sink in, hence the four posts repeating the same thing. This is about as much fun as having someone repeat the same question several times. Wheeee!
Sometimes if I repeat things enough.......the words will sink in, hence the four posts repeating the same thing. This is about as much fun as having someone repeat the same question several times. Wheeee!
12-30-03, 11:43 PM
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Sorry guys... didn't mean to sound ignorant or anything- the fact that the replacement was entirely braded was not the part that threw me off, it was that it looked alot shorter than the original- I finally managed to get the cooler off with the hoses, and now I see that the sizes are very similar, so it looks like it probably should just reach (it just looked to be alot shorter than the original since it was still on the engine and I could not eyeball it real well since alot of the engine components were in the way). So I just decided to try and get some advice before potentially getting in over my head (you never know when you may end up getting a replacement part that doesnt fit right).
...Well, now I gotta put this thing in a vise and torque those suckers off the cooler- One last question though- they are on really tight im sure, and so I was wondering, would I have to torque them just as tight when replacing them? I would hope not, it actually surprises me that they were on there so tight to begin with (could be cuz they were on for a long time though).
...Well, now I gotta put this thing in a vise and torque those suckers off the cooler- One last question though- they are on really tight im sure, and so I was wondering, would I have to torque them just as tight when replacing them? I would hope not, it actually surprises me that they were on there so tight to begin with (could be cuz they were on for a long time though).
Last edited by SomeDude; 12-30-03 at 11:45 PM.
12-31-03, 03:18 AM
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After many years, they would seem very tight and sometimes frozen. They should be tightened about 40-50 lbs torque at the oil coller and a little less at the front cover and block. Always use new copper washers on them or else you will have a leak. Air tools are wonders on large frozen bolts such as the ones on the oil cooler. By the way, be careful not to hit the aluminum boss or else it will crack. The best way is to use air tools if you have one.
Last edited by boosted1205; 12-31-03 at 03:22 AM.
12-31-03, 03:42 AM
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DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS TO PUT THOSE BOLTS BACK IN. They are soft aluminum (or whatever) and you'll rip the heads off before you know it. That's assuming that they survive being removed with air tools.
Trust me. I destroyed one of those bolts this past fall - I lucked out when my mechanic had a spare I could use (bless the man.)
Trust me. I destroyed one of those bolts this past fall - I lucked out when my mechanic had a spare I could use (bless the man.)
12-31-03, 04:17 AM
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That's assuming that they survive being removed with air tools.
That post reminded me that I've got an electric impact wrench (240 lbs max rating)- I could use that to take it off, then put it back on by hand. This should be safe to do, right? Any danger of snapping the bolts or incurring any other damage by doing that?
12-31-03, 04:25 AM
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When I first undid the bolts, I resorted to an impact gun b/c the damn thing didn't seem to want to budge, and I, like you, didn't want to rip the cooler's mounts off. I got the bolts off, but the ripped the head off one during re-installation. 
What my mechanic recommended, and what I have done since, is put a long wrench on each of the bolts and then keep giving it sharp whacks (with your hand, a mallet, whatever) until it breaks loose. Since the car was on jackstands and not exactly up in the air, I scooched under the nose of the car and used my free hand and legs to try to brace the cooler. That's worked just fine since.
Yes, there's a danger of snapping the heads off. You won't know just how 'stuck' those bolts are until after you've freed them. And you'll be turning a small PITA into a big PITA if you shear the head off one of those bolts while it's still in the cooler/engine.
Be patient and vigilant. Use the wrench technique. And don't be discouraged if it doesn't break free after a dozen solid whacks. I'm a big fan of the 'every bit helps' line of thinking - every whack brings the bolt closer to turning...
What my mechanic recommended, and what I have done since, is put a long wrench on each of the bolts and then keep giving it sharp whacks (with your hand, a mallet, whatever) until it breaks loose. Since the car was on jackstands and not exactly up in the air, I scooched under the nose of the car and used my free hand and legs to try to brace the cooler. That's worked just fine since.
Yes, there's a danger of snapping the heads off. You won't know just how 'stuck' those bolts are until after you've freed them. And you'll be turning a small PITA into a big PITA if you shear the head off one of those bolts while it's still in the cooler/engine.
Be patient and vigilant. Use the wrench technique. And don't be discouraged if it doesn't break free after a dozen solid whacks. I'm a big fan of the 'every bit helps' line of thinking - every whack brings the bolt closer to turning...
12-31-03, 06:00 PM
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I replaced those hoses two days ago. To remove them I bought 23mm and 27mm combination wrenches. I made it by hitting a bit on the other side of the wrench by a hammer.
01-01-04, 10:32 PM
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I have an oil leak to the point that when driving down the interstate, it's spraying in front of the car and proceeds to go all over my hood and window. Only at high RPM's tho. I think it is leaking at one of the fittings at the cooler. I guess I'll have to order some new lines cause I can't make the existing lines any tighter.