oil cooler leak
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oil cooler leak
I notice that my top banjo bolt on the oil cooler is leaking oil so I'm thinking it's probably the crush washers. That's going to be my first try at fixing the problem, to replace the crush washers on both the bottom and top banjo bolts.
My question is, although it may seem silly, is it necessary to bleed the system of air after I reinstall the banjo bolts with the new crush washers? I know that it's not good to have air in the cooling system and brake system, I'm wondering if it's the same with the lubrication system.
My question is, although it may seem silly, is it necessary to bleed the system of air after I reinstall the banjo bolts with the new crush washers? I know that it's not good to have air in the cooling system and brake system, I'm wondering if it's the same with the lubrication system.
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I forgot to ask one more thing. i couldn't find the torque spec for those two banjo bolts in the service manual. but I did see 40 lb/in from a search. does that sound right?
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That is a VERY good question, but this isn't a brake system where the fluid does not circulate back up to the resevoir.
The oil will go right back to the oil pan, along with air, the oil will go into the pan, and then the air will travel up the PCV system. So no, you don't need to bleed the system of air.
The oil will go right back to the oil pan, along with air, the oil will go into the pan, and then the air will travel up the PCV system. So no, you don't need to bleed the system of air.
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Torque spec is in the factory service manual. Manual is in the FAQ.
You don't need to bleed the system, but you will want to build oil pressure before you start the car. Pull the EGI fuse and crank the car over until you register some oil pressure, then put the fuse back in and start her up.
You don't need to bleed the system, but you will want to build oil pressure before you start the car. Pull the EGI fuse and crank the car over until you register some oil pressure, then put the fuse back in and start her up.